Location of BX25D block anti freeze drain

[joeds]

Easy way to drain antifreeze when you change the fuel filter. Just under the fuel injector. The 17mm bolt is just behind the socket.

Unfortunately this picture is upside down. Ive tried changing it even rotated the picture off line and it still flips it ??????

 

[JG4660]

I seen that in another thread, I'm changing coolant soon and plan on using that also. Looks like it should drain everything from one location.

JG

 

[joeds]

I think it will but removing the Radiator hose is a hassle and you cant get to the radiator drain plug without removing the oil filter. This is so much simpler i think Ill just change the coolant anytime I replace that fuel filter.

A note on the fuel filter. At 200 hours my filter had no water or trash in it. However I pump my fuel thru 2 filters from my tank so apparently that is working well.

 

[JG4660]

Did you have any trouble removing it? someone mentioned they couldn't get a socket/swivel on it without fear of stripping it. I haven't looked at mine yet.

Thanks
JG

 

[joeds]

Did you have any trouble removing it? someone mentioned they couldn't get a socket/swivel on it without fear of stripping it. I haven't looked at mine yet.

Thanks
JG

I couldn't use a socket. No clearance. Had to use a box wrench. It does feel funny because it goes thru what appears to be a rubber bushing with a bronze washer. Rather unique.

 

[JG4660]

I just looked at mine, i can get a short socket with an extension on square, tight up against a steel angle that's bolted to the block. As long as its not really torqued in there should be no problem. The best part is i can do it without removing the engine shroud, the cutout in the bottom looks like its made for this.

Thanks
JG

 

[JG4660]

Actually looks like this would only drain the radiator down to the level of the water punp inlet on the block. Will still need to pull the radiator hose also.

 

[jkcolo22]

Did you have any trouble removing it? someone mentioned they couldn't get a socket/swivel on it without fear of stripping it. I haven't looked at mine yet.



Thanks

JG

That was me. On my BX25D, that bolt was torqued down by a 500lb gorilla. I could get the socket/box wrench on the bolt but zero room to get any leverage. I tried everything in my tool box—short sockets, stubby ratchet, extensions, wobbles, breaker bars, ratcheting wrench. No room to get an impact in there.

I finally just took off the hose. I will do the same thing next time, but will remove the loader first. The loader arms were cumbersome when trying to tighten the pipe clamp back on. And couldn’t start the machine to take it off once I had already drained all the fluid. Live and learn.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[JG4660]

I was hoping this would be one place to drain all the fluid because on mine its pretty easy to get at, but on closer look it won't drain the radiater completely so i'm gonna just pull the lower hose and leave this alone. I don't need to do a thorough flush so whats left in the block won't be an issue...While i'm changing coolant i'm going to see if i can extend the drain port to an easy reach location. Then future changes would take 10 minutes.

JG

 

[SidecarFlip]

I always use the lower rad hose on my M's. gets it all. Don't forget to loosen the rad cap too... I have the plastic petcock on my Rad but it's so flimsy, I've never used it.

 

[joeds]

Actually looks like this would only drain the radiator down to the level of the water punp inlet on the block. Will still need to pull the radiator hose also.

I drained about 2 quarts and it only holds 2.8. That would reinforce what you said. Wish I had turned on the engine to see if it would have emptied the pump. Something to try next time.

With that said I removed 70% of the system antifreeze. Since the only reason to change coolant is just to replace the additives (The Glycol never goes bad). I figure if I do this every 2 years with coolant designed to last 5 years, Ill be dead and gone before long before the tractor has a problem.

Another thing I do is use a 70% solution. Raises the boiling point, lowers the freezing point, and adds additional anti-corrosion additives.

 

[joeds]

Another thought. Many of the major trucking lines test the coolant and add additives as required and don't replace the fluid at all. On my Cummins engine
I used to do that. Bought all the stuff I needed from NAPA.

Not worth the trouble though on this little engine. One gallon of antifreeze and a gallon of distilled water (99 cents at the grocery store) is enough to do 3 changes.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Another thought. Many of the major trucking lines test the coolant and add additives as required and don't replace the fluid at all. On my Cummins engine
I used to do that. Bought all the stuff I needed from NAPA.

Not worth the trouble though on this little engine. One gallon of antifreeze and a gallon of distilled water (99 cents at the grocery store) is enough to do 3 changes.

I beg to differ with you on that statement. Even extended life AF requires changing, just not as often, usually every 5 years and I worked at a Freightliner dealer in service and we never added anything to extended life coolant in all the years I worked there.

With conventional green coolant, the addition of DCA4 stabilizes the coolant but isn't needed with extended life. I add DCA4 to my Kubota's because they use conventional AF, not extended life AF. I do it out of habit, not because it's needed. Kubota's are all dry liner engines so there is never any contact between the AF and the hot liner.

I use Prestone 50-50 pre mix coolant in the Kubby's.

 

[joeds]

I beg to differ with you on that statement. Even extended life AF requires changing, just not as often, usually every 5 years and I worked at a Freightliner dealer in service and we never added anything to extended life coolant in all the years I worked there.

With conventional green coolant, the addition of DCA4 stabilizes the coolant but isn't needed with extended life. I add DCA4 to my Kubota's because they use conventional AF, not extended life AF. I do it out of habit, not because it's needed. Kubota's are all dry liner engines so there is never any contact between the AF and the hot liner.

I use Prestone 50-50 pre mix coolant in the Kubby's.

I would imagine your shop would not do anything that would possibly void the warranty which is both wise and prudent. Just because you didn't do it doesn't mean it cant be done however. With analysis sometimes A fleet shop would be looking for ways to save money by reducing maintenance cost hence using oil and coolant analysis to eliminate unnecessary changes.

When I worked in the powerhouse of a DuPont plant we had miles of coolant lines filled with Glycol and additives to prevent rust and corrosion. I can assure you we did not dump and replace thousands of gallons of coolant every X number of years. Again Glycol doesn't stop working over time. Additives do deplete the mixture due to chemical reaction and have to be replenished. Also in big systems filtration is required to remove and solids that might accumulate.

Some local auto shops now recycle the antifreeze in their vehicles by recycling in place antifreeze using a machine.

 

[JG4660]

I drained about 2 quarts and it only holds 2.8. That would reinforce what you said. Wish I had turned on the engine to see if it would have emptied the pump. Something to try next time.

With that said I removed 70% of the system antifreeze. Since the only reason to change coolant is just to replace the additives (The Glycol never goes bad). I figure if I do this every 2 years with coolant designed to last 5 years, Ill be dead and gone before long before the tractor has a problem.

Another thing I do is use a 70% solution. Raises the boiling point, lowers the freezing point, and adds additional anti-corrosion additives.

Yeah good point you probably got about 70% out...could fill with water run it for a while again and then just add a bit stronger mix.

 

[SidecarFlip]

If you read your owners manual you see that Kubota recommends a maximum of 50% conventional glycol antifreeze and 50% water.

 

[joeds]

If you read your owners manual you see that Kubota recommends a maximum of 50% conventional glycol antifreeze and 50% water.

It also says for extreme temperatures consult your dealer. If you live in North Central us, most of Canada, Alaska, Finland, Norway, Russia, and other northern climates 50/50 only protects to -35F. In those areas you must go to a 60/40 or 70/30 mix. 70/30 protects to -84.

Aren't we lucky to only need 50/50