LED light bar. Where to take power from

[Stomper]

I am looking at adding a LED light bar to my ROPS on my L2501. I want it to be powered only when the key is in the on position. Should I take the power directly from the battery, a location in the fuse box or from a wire in the wiring harness that is powered by the ignition. I am also going to run electronics to the back of the tractor to power my snow blower chute rotation and deflection. Should I do the same with this wiring.

 

[cviola2005]

I am looking at adding a LED light bar to my ROPS on my L2501. I want it to be powered only when the key is in the on position. Should I take the power directly from the battery, a location in the fuse box or from a wire in the wiring harness that is powered by the ignition. I am also going to run electronics to the back of the tractor to power my snow blower chute rotation and deflection. Should I do the same with this wiring.

I would recommend taking power and ground from the battery to a relay and using ignition positive to feed the switch that powers the relay. If you need further understanding and/or help with a wiring harness, just let me know.

 

[Stomper]

Thanks. I think I have a good grasp of how it's supposed to be wired but a drawing wouldn't hurt if it's not to much trouble. My main concern was where to draw poser from and the battery makes sense. Thanks again

 

[Grizzy3901]

If your running led not really a reason to run a relay look under the passenger side fender should be a plug there pretty sure that's where I grabbed my power from. Works with the factory switch

 

[cviola2005]

It really depends on the amperage draw of the light bar. I'd recommend a relay simply to protect the original wiring and ignition switch.

And a drawing would depend on the relay used, as a few different types are made.

 

[Dave_eng]

Some of the older small Kubota's did not rectify all three output legs of the alternator/dynamo.

One leg went to a rectifier and the other two leads powered the lamps thus the lamps are running on alternating current and their brightness/voltage changes with rpm.

I mention this fact in case some try installing LED's on one of these tractors and, although I have not tried it, I don't think LED's will like the alternating current.

To an incandescent bulb its all amps so no problem.

This type of design is done because the rectifier wastes some energy as heat as it cuts off 1/2 of the sine wave voltage.

Dave M7040

 

[Grizzy3901]

It all depends on how many led lights your running as to if you need a relay right now I have 2 lights each has 6 3watt limbs in it so that's a total of 36 wattsdivide that by 12 volts gives you 4 amps. Now when I mount my other 2 lights which have 12 per light I will probably add a relay since I will be up around 12 amps. As for the alternator he has a new style tractor even on an old tractor leds would probably still work bc a led works from 6 to 36 volts so they won't change brightness as long as they are running in that range.

 

[gcmiller]

It all depends on how many led lights your running as to if you need a relay right now I have 2 lights each has 6 3watt limbs in it so that's a total of 36 wattsdivide that by 12 volts gives you 4 amps. Now when I mount my other 2 lights which have 12 per light I will probably add a relay since I will be up around 12 amps. As for the alternator he has a new style tractor even on an old tractor leds would probably still work bc a led works from 6 to 36 volts so they won't change brightness as long as they are running in that range.

I hope I'm not coming across as a smarta$$ (just trying to help), but 36W at 12v is 3 amps. When you add the other two lights you'll be at 9 amps. Technically you'll be lower than that since a good battery puts out closer to 13.4v, but it's best to design for 12v as you are doing.

While LEDs will work in a large voltage range they require Direct Current and they won't work with Alternating Current, as Dave said, so the voltage used needs to come from the rectifier. Repeating Dave again, this shouldn't be a problem on modern tractors. Rectifiers have improved over the years and tractors have become more and more computerized which requires DC voltage.

 

[Grizzy3901]

Sorry about that big fingers and smart phones don't go together. I didn't see the a.c. part in the other post. But the point that if you aren't adding huge amounts of amps then a relay isn't necessary

 

[CharlieFoxtrot]

I would recommend taking power and ground from the battery to a relay and using ignition positive to feed the switch that powers the relay. If you need further understanding and/or help with a wiring harness, just let me know.

Where do you tap the ignition positive from? On my machine, I used the auxiliary wire in the rear of the tractor that is hot only when the key switch is on because I couldn't find where under the hood to take it from. I would prefer to grab it from the front of the tractor.

 

[jkcolo22]

Where do you tap the ignition positive from? On my machine, I used the auxiliary wire in the rear of the tractor that is hot only when the key switch is on because I couldn't find where under the hood to take it from. I would prefer to grab it from the front of the tractor.

If you have the wires behind the seat, this is the best way to do it. Otherwise, use a relay. Basically, a relay uses three wires. Positive, ground (both from battery) and a "trigger"/"aux" wire. The relay won't push the positive feed out until it senses power on the aux. You need to use a multimeter to find a wire that only shows +12v when the key is on to connect to aux. +/- come from battery. Wires from the ignition are usually a good place to start.

 

[Grizzy3901]

If you find a fuse that only comes on with the key they have fuses with a wire that comes off to hook up for situations like this if you don't want to cut a factory wire.

 

[Stomper]

Thanks for the input guys. Didn't think it was that in depth to hook up a couple lights. Having said that, some good info here. Thanks

 

[beaterboss]

Check this out buddy...May help you out.

http://www.orangetractortalks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29361

 

[fishinroc25]

Some of the older small Kubota's did not rectify all three output legs of the alternator/dynamo.

One leg went to a rectifier and the other two leads powered the lamps thus the lamps are running on alternating current and their brightness/voltage changes with rpm.

I mention this fact in case some try installing LED's on one of these tractors and, although I have not tried it, I don't think LED's will like the alternating current.

To an incandescent bulb its all amps so no problem.

This type of design is done because the rectifier wastes some energy as heat as it cuts off 1/2 of the sine wave voltage.

Dave M7040

Dave,

You are correct, it doesn't work! I converted my headlamps over to LED on my BX and they flash/pulse until I'm almost wide open throttle (which I don't run hardly ever). Standard bulbs are unfortunately the only way to go for headlamps...



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Dave_eng]

Dave,

You are correct, it doesn't work! I converted my headlamps over to LED on my BX and they flash/pulse until I'm almost wide open throttle (which I don't run hardly ever). Standard bulbs are unfortunately the only way to go for headlamps...



Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I am not surprised. However, perhaps the design can be changed and the phases not rectified actually rectified by using a rectifier from a later model tractor which will accept all three output leads.

Others may have more detailed suggestions. I don't think Ebay rectifiers are too expensive.

Dave M7040