Landscape Rake for De-Thatching ?

[jcork]

I see some side rakes and rotary-style rakes like folks use for raking hay into windrows, but my application is scraping an inch or so of 10-year-old dead grass off old CRP ground, and trying to get it off so I can spray effectively.

It seems like a blanket harrow would do that as well, but would be even more trouble to clean/unload every few feet as it loaded up.

Just wondering if anyone has tried such a thing.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

A tractor mount landscape rake would be too heavy and actually rip out the grass rather then de-thatch it. Best bet would be to rent a proper lawn de-thatcher.

 

[gpreuss]

I bought a landscape rake years ago to try to pick up pine cones. My general report is "poor". Anything faster than 2nd at near idle was too fast - the pine cones would bounce from under it. Weight on the rake would tear up the grass. I tried it again last week, to pull the gravel back up on the driveway after a winter or two's snow plowing. Again, it did sort of OK with the gravel, but pulled up a lot of the grass.
I'd go for a de-thatcher.

 

[skeets]

Yuppers I would listen to what Eric has to say about this, he do know these things

 

[jcork]

A tractor mount landscape rake would be too heavy and actually rip out the grass rather then de-thatch it. Best bet would be to rent a proper lawn de-thatcher.

The only lawn de-thatcher I have seen is like a push lawn mower.

I need something appropriate for about 20 acres of CRP ground, growing an assortment of pasture grasses.

It doesn't sound like the landscape rakes have a lot of potential though.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

First off what is CRP ground and secondly why do you feel the need to de-thatch 20 acres?

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Toro makes a tractor mount dethatcher but it wont be cheap.

http://www.toro.com/en-us/sports-fi...her-seeder/Pages/Model.aspx?pid=Aerothatch-83

 

[jcork]

First off what is CRP ground and secondly why do you feel the need to de-thatch 20 acres?

CRP is the Conservation Reserve Program (or similar), where the USDA pays you a small fee (like $50 per acre per year) to leave highly erodable land untouched, or planted in native grasses or tress; all you can do is weed control via spot mowing and spot spraying. The contracts are typically 12-15 years long.

After 15 years or so, you have a lot of dead cellulose on the surface providing a blanket for weeds to hide under. I'd like to try seeing how effective weed control is when I can get early spray to the weeds.

20 acres happens to be the size of the space involved.

 

[skeets]

how about a flock of sheep,,, they would take care of it and then you can sell the lambs and wool

 

[Eric McCarthy]

A broad leaf herbicide like Glystar would work great to get rid of the weeds and not kill the grass.

 

[rpm4fsu]

During my search for a de-thatcher for my kubota this is one of the few that I have found.

I know nothing about it other that what is at the web site.

http://www.trac-vac.com/index_files/Model330Thatch.htm

Robert

 

[Eric McCarthy]

Flimsy junk that won't hold up.

 

[Russell King]

Perhaps this will work?

http://www.pinestrawrake.com/

I am having a similar problem with the matt of grass left over from shredding.

The other idea I have is a drag harrow but have not tried either of these...

http://www.servis-rhino.com/products/flexible-tine-harrows-harrow-cart/

Some of these come with carts or lift points to use with a rear boom.

If you find something that works - please post back.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

I'd go with the pine straw rake over the drag harrow for a less aggressive approach. The harrow will defiantly tear out the grass. It's built for farm and crop work.

 

[Stubbyie]

We pick up a landscape rake twice a year to clean up the place. Amazed how much junk it picks up. Spouse drives machine and I follow with pitchfork to floss the rake's teeth, gradually filling up loader bucket with each pass. Gets old after a couple hours.

When using a spike-tooth (I think what you call a blanket type) harrow--roughly 10 x 20 frame with long angled spikes into the soil--in pasturage we never worry about clogging, never stop, don't worry, and just keep going. Pretty much self-cleaning and seems to get the job done.

For your situation you might consider a spring-tooth harrow set to barely engage soil. Looks kind of like a disc frame but with individual spring-loaded roughly C-shaped 24- to 30+ inch teeth that trip 'up' when too heavily loaded or hit obstruction.

Please post back how you proceed and your experiences so we may all learn.

 

[Paulemar]

If it's that bad, it sounds like you should consider starting all over in that 20 acres. In 12 to 15 years you can lose a lot of the good stuff in that original planting. I would till it under, see what comes up, spray what does come up with a roundup type killer and replant in late Summer/early Fall. It may end up being less work and less expensive in the long run. You will solve your thatch problem completely, have a fresh field with your choice of what exactly what you want to plant. Also, make sure to do a soil test and treat as necessary.
Your original question would involve getting the thatch out of the existing planting, probably tons of thatch if done well. Then you have to get it picked up and out of the field and stored/composted/disposed of somewhere. Now you have a 15 year old crop that needs the broadleaf/(and grassy?) weeds controlled and probably will have to be overseeded too. It sounds like too much work and cash to risk on rejuvenating an old field to me.

 

[Eric McCarthy]

BAD IDEA. Not on 20 acers anyway. Considering with a bag of grass seed you need to apply 6 to 10 pounds of seed per 1000qft. And seeing how there is 871,200 square feet to 20 acres you could not afford the grass seed to re-establish the area.

You're looking at $5872.50 in just grass seed alone. Oh and did you want starter fert to go along with that??