I keep an assortment of -06, -08, and -10 caps and plugs on hand - dirt cheap and handy in emergencies.
L4400 fel not working
- Thread starter bsamot69
- Start date
Capped
With the rod end capped off, the loader raised slowly. It lowered slowly after raising . It did not raise all the way.
bsa, while @TheOldHokie is away, let's try something. Please read and follow carefully.
1. Mark each hose and where it connects to each cylinder. Make sure the bucket is sitting flat on the floor/ground.
2. Remove each hose connection, total of 8, at the cylinder. Be prepared to catch a little fluid drainage.
3. This next step will be messy, so have plenty of rags around the open connection.
4. Pick one of the cylinders, then blow air into one of the fittings were you removed it. 100 psi air shouldn't be enough to move anything, but be prepared. While you're blowing air in that fitting, does air escape the fitting on the other end of the corresponding cylinder?
5. Repeat step 4 for the other 3 cylinders and report your results.
That would be very unusual. Confirm, in the picture below, you removed both hoses circled in green? Then forced air in one and air flowed out the other?
OK. I'm having trouble accepting that all four cylinders went out at the same time.
As a double check, do this. Remove the pin that holds the pin end (left) in that last picture and let that cylinder swing free from the other pin. Both fittings are still disconnected, right? Extend the rod. Then put air on the left fitting. Does the rod retract? If so, let it retract until it stops. Then does air still keep coming out the right fitting? Report back.
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
1. Does it keep coming out that other end, even after the rod is fully retracted and stops moving?
2. Have a cap ready. When the rod is fully retracted, cap the fitting on the right side. Then pull on the rod and see if you can extend it all the way?
Report back.
First, the rod does not fully retract . It moves about halfway and stops. That is when the air comes out opposite end.
You want me to cap it when it reaches its limit and cap it? See if I can pull it down/ out after capping it?
For shits and giggles, in case the cylinder seals are bad, I checked with the nearby Kubota dealers. At the mention of Ansung.. "we can't get anything from Ansung". I have Ansung number in Dallas , see if they can refer a parts supplier . That's only if that is the problem. Look forward to hearing from you!
I wouldn't expect most K dealers to support after-market implements and I think your model is obsolete. If Ansung can assist it'll be expensive I expect. We can probably find you some good, new, @TheOldHokie-approved cylinders for about $300 ea. They don't have to be exact replacements, but they do have to be matched pairs. OK, back to the other post.
That would indicate more than a seal failure. No, capping it now wouldn't add anything.
Repeat the steps in posts 168 and 171 on the other three cylinders and report back.
So that cylinder has some kind of defect, yes?
I will perform this ritual on the other cylinders
The raise cylinder on left side retracted a little more than half and air coming out of opposite fitting
The right hand tilt cylinder retracted a little and air coming out of opposite fitting the left hand tilt cylinder did not retract and air out of opposite cylinder. I'm thinking this is not a good thing
Most unusual that all four cylinders go kaput at once.
I'm conflicted here. @TheOldHokie would tell you to replace them all. I'm the type that likes to know why and how, it carried over from my earliest days. So let's do this:
Measure one of each cylinder so we can shop. We need
* Cylinder diameter
* Rod diameter
* Length, center-to-center, when rod is completely extended
* Length, center-to-center, when rod is completely compressed
* Diameter of the connection pin on the rod end
* Diameter of the connection pin on the cap end
* Width of the rod end
* Width of the cap end
* Picture of each end
If you have a good hydraulic shop available, you could take them there and have them check them out. If they just need seals, you'll come out ahead replacing seals. But your symptoms suggest more serious problems, so I wouldn't have them do anything more. Have $300 for a new cylinder in the back of your mind.
Since you're about to spend some money, let's review. For
$1200 cylinders
$500 12 hoses & connectors
$300 joystick valve
$2000 total
you'd have new loader hydraulics. You might not need all of this right now, of course. But, before we start spending your money on hydraulics, are you reasonably sure that the structure of the loader is good? Is it square, do the pivot points move ok and without too much slop?
I'm conflicted here. @TheOldHokie would tell you to replace them all. I'm the type that likes to know why and how, it carried over from my earliest days. So let's do this:
Measure one of each cylinder so we can shop. We need
* Cylinder diameter
* Rod diameter
* Length, center-to-center, when rod is completely extended
* Length, center-to-center, when rod is completely compressed
* Diameter of the connection pin on the rod end
* Diameter of the connection pin on the cap end
* Width of the rod end
* Width of the cap end
* Picture of each end
If you have a good hydraulic shop available, you could take them there and have them check them out. If they just need seals, you'll come out ahead replacing seals. But your symptoms suggest more serious problems, so I wouldn't have them do anything more. Have $300 for a new cylinder in the back of your mind.
Since you're about to spend some money, let's review. For
$1200 cylinders
$500 12 hoses & connectors
$300 joystick valve
$2000 total
you'd have new loader hydraulics. You might not need all of this right now, of course. But, before we start spending your money on hydraulics, are you reasonably sure that the structure of the loader is good? Is it square, do the pivot points move ok and without too much slop?
This loader/tractor we purchased for 1000.00. yes, a grand. The hour meter indicates 151 hours. The rest of tractor looks like it has low hours. The machine sat for years unused outside. The hydraulic fluid I drained out of it was hideous.
That much invested in hydraulics still makes this machine a good purchase . I will get the dimensions you indicated and I'll be back .
I do appreciate your help with this.
I've been following this thread in awe of the amazing help and support provided by experienced and knowledgeable members of this forum. Just great.