L4310, HST, 4x4: hazards/turn signal

[Demodiver]

Hey, Y'all!
I'm looking for assistance with my hazards/turn signals. Before posting this I had no lights, even on the dash for the signals. Now, I do have the dash signals working and the hazard switch blinks when pushed, but still no power to the sockets.
There was a blown 10amp fuse and I cleaned the harness plug at the combo switch, flasher relay, and hazard switch. That got me the dash lights and hazard switch. The wire harness is in good shape to the lights and the grounds that I've found are in good shape.
Any obvious reasons why? Electrical is not my strength, so that's why I'm asking.

 

[GeoHorn]

Electrical Wiring is like plumbing. For water to flow (current) to the hydrant there must be pressure (Voltage) in the pipe (wire) from the source (battery) all the way to the hydrant. When the hydrant is flowing the water (current) will fall to the ground (your battery-neg-terminal or engine/frame.) <edit> (and a break in the pipe-wall (wire insulation) can allow the current to “escape” or leak out.)

Get a cheap VOM (Volt/Ohm/Meter from the plumbing supply (Harbor Freight) and check at appropriate points along the pipe/wire that pressure/voltage exists and that the sockets have good grounds. Those things like #s 10, 20, 30, etc. are “relays”…. little remote-control valves….which when THEY are activated by current they will usually make an audible “click” as their little switching-points inside make contact to send current forward to the device. (Relays are not usually found on lighting circuits tho’, except at the main source/battery…and since you have current at the panel they are not likely the issue.)

You don’t say how old your machine is…or how it’s been stored…or how recent this failure is…but if this thing has been sitting somewhere for a long time corrosion and mice gets into the wiring and chews on it.

You can do this. Just get a VOM and start checking along the route from source to the lamp.

 

[N3BP]

I'd check for a mouse nest and chewed wiring where the harness runs through near the bellhousing. Remove the large rubber plug and seen if they chewed anything up.

 

[Demodiver]

@GeoHorn @N3BP

Appreciate the feedback. I'm going out now to take another look. Also replace a tailight and the step.

Is this flat connector supposed to be grounded (attached)? It's just hanging under the fender right now. Also, the safety switch above the left axle under the deck is disconnected (clutch or trans, not sure yet).

I'm the 3rd owner of this tractor. It's been kept under cover and used at least weekly by both other owners. 1st owner moved gravel with it at a corry. 2nd owner moved bales with it. I think it's a 2001 and it has 2,000hrs.

None of the lights worked when I bought it. Head light bulbs blown, sockets bad, and wire damage. No tail lights - sockets melted and bad bulbs. I got those fixed now. Luckily the dash lights started working along the way and I'm not sure what I did to fix that other than unplugging/plugging things and a fuse replaced.

Last owner did not like it because it was very hard to shift (he kept it in 4x4) and has sloppy steering. After I replaced an axle seal, pto seal, and fixed a sight glass leak, replaced both front tires (one was 25% and the other 50%), and got the right rear to hold air, it shifts just fine. I think with all the different tires sizes it was binding up. I also don't leave it in 4x4; only when needed. Found a bad tie rod and worn steering shaft flat plat - that took care of sloppy steering. Runs strong and this is a great machine now.

 

[Demodiver]

Alright. I've got good continuity from the combo switch to the turn/hazard sockets. The combo switch has good power and when the turn lever is in neutral both red & green wires to the sockets are hot. High and low beam work fine. If I turn left on the switch green goes dead and vice versa for right with red. Still no power to the sockets.

The connectors/wires at the bell housing are fine, but they were packed with mud. Contact cleaner took care of it.

Dash signals for hazards and turn are not working again... fuses are all still good.

Is the flasher relay the problem? Any ideas?

 

[GeoHorn]

It’s unlikely that a “flat connector” is to be grounded. It’s more likely it’s to be connected to a receptacle… or a “spare” receptacle which was optional equipment/perhaps never installed.
If you test it’s contacts or wire for “current” and is found to be “hot” then it is likely the latter.
Grounding it might blow another fuse.

These “harnesses” were designed to fit several different models with different optional-accessories. Don’t be surprised to see some of them unused.

 

[N3BP]

Diagnosing wiring issues is always fun (not). You need a wiring diagram and a fair amount of patience. Work your way from source to load doing continuity checks wherever you can break the circuit apart.

The flat connector you speak of is most likely for connecting a rear work light. It should show 12V when you have the ignition switch to on, then nothing when when off. If you ground it then turn the ignition on, you will blow the fuse that protects that circuit.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I would like to add this,

In general , I have found that there are “ususally” more than one relay of the same size/type in the box.

If I suspect a relay is bad, or simply to “test” it, I typically swap it with another relay to see if the problem “follows” the suspect relay.

Good luck.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

FYI.. Kubota generally uses BLACK as their GROUND wire colour code, so if those rear lights have 3 wires and one is BLACK, it probably goes to 'ground'.

You really need to get the wiring diagram for your tractor ! Try www.kubotabooks.com, they may have the WSM ( WorkShop Manual), diagram will be in the 'electrical section. It also tells you about wire colour codes.

 

[Brice Pendleton]

Good morning, I am a new member to this site, and a Kabota owner since 1999. I own a B2710 I bought new in back 99. I just purchased a 2710 parts tractor with an LA402 loader I am planning to install on my tractor. I am going to try this myself and need some pointers. Thanks, Bruce

 

[Demodiver]

One step forward, one back. Lol. I replaced the battery tray and some busted up skirting on the front cowl last night. Also, redid the main battery ground while in there.

Good news, the flashers and turn signals blinkers in the dash work again. Bad news, now the tractor doesn't turn off by the key. I have to pull the stop lever.

I must have wiggled or hit something in there when the dash was apart. More to follow as I work through this.

 

[Russell King]

Good morning, I am a new member to this site, and a Kabota owner since 1999. I own a B2710 I bought new in back 99. I just purchased a 2710 parts tractor with an LA402 loader I am planning to install on my tractor. I am going to try this myself and need some pointers. Thanks, Bruce

Well first off welcome to the forum!

Secondly, don’t just glom onto an unrelated thread, instead start a new one. You will get more attention and answers if you start a new thread with a title that is relevant to your problem and project.

Thirdly, learn to spell Kubota correctly or you will get grief about it!

 

[N3BP]

One step forward, one back. Lol. I replaced the battery tray and some busted up skirting on the front cowl last night. Also, redid the main battery ground while in there.

Good news, the flashers and turn signals blinkers in the dash work again. Bad news, now the tractor doesn't turn off by the key. I have to pull the stop lever.

I must have wiggled or hit something in there when the dash was apart. More to follow as I work through this.

One of those relays behind the dash is for the key stop system. I'd turn the key off and start wiggling them to see if one makes connection and releases the fuel pump solenoid.

 

[Demodiver]

One of those relays behind the dash is for the key stop system. I'd turn the key off and start wiggling them to see if one makes connection and releases the fuel pump solenoid.

Good idea. I managed to find a wiring diagram online, so things make a little more sense now as I dig around in there. Between that and parts schematics I may be able to figure this out.
I'm really starting to think that it's the turn signal switch based on both right & left being hot when the switch is in neutral. By hot I mean it would barely illuminate my tester. Also, when I would switch it to right or left, the power to that wire would shut off, not get stronger. On the other hand I don't know what the switch is supposed to do when activated...