L2950 broken axle case

[Zekepup]

I broke the left 4x4 axle case on my l2950 where the tie rod connects. I believe this is cast iron. Has anyone had success in having this welded? If not recommendations on who might have repair parts

 

[Russell King]

Yes that is cast iron. It can be welded but that would be a difficult job and then require some machining. I think I would take the picture to a machine shop and see if they could repair it somehow. I have no clue how but they may be able to clamp it together with some bolts!

You can contact Lance Newhall (@007kubotaguy) and see if he has that at his salvage yard

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

I broke the left 4x4 axle case on my l2950 where the tie rod connects. I believe this is cast iron. Has anyone had success in having this welded? If not recommendations on who might have repair parts

Breaking it have anything to do with new tires?

That's an Incredibly hard part to fix.
Try Lance above first, then your next option below.

Used LH Axle Case fits Kubota L2950 32420-43827

LH Axle Case for Kubota Tractor(s) L2950. Replaces Kubota OEM Number(s) 32420-43827.

www.tractorpartsasap.com

 

[Zekepup]

Breaking it have anything to do with new tires?

That's an Incredibly hard part to fix.
Try Lance above first, then your next option below.

Used LH Axle Case fits Kubota L2950 32420-43827

LH Axle Case for Kubota Tractor(s) L2950. Replaces Kubota OEM Number(s) 32420-43827.

www.tractorpartsasap.com

Thanks the front tires have been on for a while. I take good care of the old tractor and really just do drive way maintenance. I had been using a box blade and then took a lunch break. Started to back out and finish …. Pop….. she snapped. Now to source all the needed part. A friend said check out Cross Creek tractor. All other help appreciated.

 

[Zekepup]

Yes that is cast iron. It can be welded but that would be a difficult job and then require some machining. I think I would take the picture to a machine shop and see if they could repair it somehow. I have no clue how but they may be able to clamp it together with some bolts!

You can contact Lance Newhall (@007kubotaguy) and see if he has that at his salvage yard
View attachment 157912

Thanks

 

[Zekepup]

Thanks

I have checked all of the contacts and no one has this part. The one that Allstate had listed,is,no longer available. I have to continue the search. I got to have my old tractor up and running as soon as possible

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Find a local welder that can weld cast.
The keep and eye out for a good used part.

 

[07wingnut]

On an 885 CIH tractor the lug that holds the 3pth arm restraining chains snapped. A local welder came and welded it, took about 2 hours, first to grind and then to heat the whole area, then welding, bit by bit, with cooling in between. After that, he welded a steel bar around the assembly. It held till the tractor was sold years later. In your case, you would have to disassemble the part, because the heating would destroy all the seals in that area and all that oil in the case might get hot enough to ignite.

 

[Zekepup]

Thanks for all the reply’s. I have called every salvage yard I could find and no one has that part. I am on every list possible. I am taking it to a welder and at least try to get it back in operation, but of course they cannot guarantee it will hold. So if anyone ever hears about parts for the L2950 please keep me in mind.

 

[rbargeron]

Getting good strength in a cast iron part by welding is very tough to get right - and because of heat-induced weakening of the iron's crystal structure there's only one chance to succeed. I'd go for a re-design instead where a bolted block is added the casting by machining a new flat surface in the area where the breaks are.

Looking at your picture of the broken "ear" I'd take the part to a skilled machinist. That side of the casting could be milled with a new vertical flat area, with a couple of tapped holes in the thickest area for bolts. Then a short piece of thick steel angle iron could be made for bolting to the machined surface, with 2 holes for horizontal bolts into the casting and a hole for the tie-rod. Look for somebody with a milling machine (lots of old Bridgeports out there) who does machinery repairs. The new steel attachment piece could be angle iron or a solid block. Keep it compact so the wheel can still turn to the right ok.

Here's a rough sketch of the idea: (improved 7/11) Need to disassemble the gear housing so the drilled holes can go thru. Use grade 5 bolts - about 1/2" (13mm), trim them so they don't stick out inside the housing and use sealant. For full range of motion, the block's corners may need shaving. Should be stronger than new.

7/14/25 - couple more thoughts: maybe once there's good surface to bolt to, try mocking up a couple versions of the new block in wood or something easy to shape ?
Finding a clever machinist will be key - but anybody who still has a manual milling machine will be a great starting point.

 

[Zekepup]

Getting good strength in a cast iron part by welding is very tough to get right - and because of heat-induced weakening of the iron's crystal structure there's only one chance to succeed. I'd go for a re-design instead where a bolted block is added the casting by machining a new flat surface in the area where the breaks are.

Looking at your picture of the broken "ear" I'd take the part to a skilled machinist. That side of the casting could be milled with a new vertical flat area, with a couple of tapped holes in the thickest area for bolts. Then a short piece of thick steel angle iron could be made for bolting to the machined surface, with 2 holes for horizontal bolts into the casting and a hole for the tie-rod. Look for somebody with a milling machine (lots of old Bridgeports out there) who does machinery repairs. The new steel attachment piece could be angle iron or a solid block. Keep it compact so the wheel can still turn to the right ok.

Here's a rough sketch of the idea: (improved 7/11) Need to disassemble the gear housing so the drilled holes can go thru. Use grade 5 bolts - about 1/2" (13mm), trim them so they don't stick out inside the housing and use sealant. For full range of motion, the block's corners may need shaving. Should be stronger than new.

View attachment 158395

Thanks

 

[Zekepup]

Well I thought I had found one , but it came from an earlier serial numbered tractor and would not work.The part I need is 35060-43826… was excited , but now back to the search. Just darn….