My steering cylinder started leaking so I removed it and had it rebuilt. Now I"m ready to reinstall it and noticed the two lines that run to the cylinder have the exact same connector and I don't remember which hose goes to which connector. If I hook it up backwards, will it cause any damage to the cylinder or just steer backwards? Thanks
L2900gst steering cylinder and lines
- Thread starter Tnrandy
- Start date
.a lot of times the hoses will have sort of a memory such that if you just kinda manually put them into a position, they sorta tell you whether they like to be in that spot or not. If you have the positions swapped they'll kind of fight you trying to put them on. Especially if they are the original hoses.
Ok thanks...I had the cylinder rebuilt and when I put it back on the tractor it started leaking from the front ram, so I wanted to make sure if I put the lines on backwards it wouldn't cause this issue.
I took the cylinder back and had them fix it again, and now it's leaking from the back ram@! Very frustrating!
Thanks
I took the cylinder back and had them fix it again, and now it's leaking from the back ram@! Very frustrating!
Thanks
that's one reason I usually replace them.
They newest revision is a little different part number and I'm told is improved.
When rebuilding most folks toss new seals in them and send it. But there's more to it. There's bushings, and then there's the bore itself. The bore must be round and not tapered and not scratched, if it is, it's worn, will never seal up properly and will require replacing the cylinder bore. Or machine it, but honestly probably just cheaper and better in the long run to replace the assembly.
The seals and bushings were over $240 the last time I bought them, plus some tools to get it apart and then check the bore and bushings and rods, then downtime, then finding the time to do the rebuild, etc....and a new cylinder was about $800 and as said, updated.
They newest revision is a little different part number and I'm told is improved.
When rebuilding most folks toss new seals in them and send it. But there's more to it. There's bushings, and then there's the bore itself. The bore must be round and not tapered and not scratched, if it is, it's worn, will never seal up properly and will require replacing the cylinder bore. Or machine it, but honestly probably just cheaper and better in the long run to replace the assembly.
The seals and bushings were over $240 the last time I bought them, plus some tools to get it apart and then check the bore and bushings and rods, then downtime, then finding the time to do the rebuild, etc....and a new cylinder was about $800 and as said, updated.