L2850 Leak Repairs and Maintenance

[andmel]

I've been cleaning up and going over a recently purchased L2850 DT (shuttle trans). I degreased and pressure washed it and I'm now running down the leaks. Resolved a fuel leak by tightening up a loose injector line. Resolved milky trans fluid by flushing system with diesel (dealer recommendation). I was careful to open all possible drains including the line to the steering box (hydraulic assist steering), turning the steering wheel back and forth, and relaxing the 3-pt lift arms to release all remaining diesel from the lines. I let sit for more than a week before adding new trans/hydr fluid.

Only remaining issue seems to be a leaking seal behind the crankshaft pulley. Engine is a V1702-DI-A.

I'd like some advise on replacing this as I've not yet acquired a shop manual. How extensive is this procedure? Is the nut right-hand-thread? I'm assuming that with the presence of a nut, the crank pulley is splined or rides on a D-key and is not pressed on. I got a replacement seal from my dealer and they seemed to indicate that the procedure was relatively straight forward: 1)Remove the pulley, 2) Pick out the old seal with a drift or screwdriver, 3) lube and install the new seal, 4) reassemble.
Is it really that easy???

In lieu of an impact wrench, which I assume will require removal of the battery tray & radiator, I plan on using a socket and breaker bar on the nut. If I can't break it loose without engine rotation and 'walking the tractor over chocks, I can rest the handle against the frame (either on top or underneath depending on engine rotation) and bumping the starter (turning key back to 'off' instantly) to break the nut loose. I know this probably has some heads shaking but I've successfully used this technique on other engines. The big 'be careful issue' is ENGINE ROTATION.

 

[Daren Todd]

Should be a standard thread. I had to pull the cover off the front of mine to replace a camshaft plug. While I was in there I replaced all the seals.



In my case, I have a pto shaft on the front of mine to run an auxiliary hydro pump. So I locked the shaft using a three foot long pipe wrench and then got onto the nut with a wrench. Mine had a washer that was bent over to keep the nut from backing off. So make sure and look for that before removing the nut.



The seal was straight forward. If you have a seal puller, which I'll edit and add the pick in a sec of one, they make removing the seal a breeze. As for the new seal, lube the rubber with either lithium grease or assembly lube before installing.



Spring side of the seal faces the oil. And it helps to give it a slight twist when starting it over the shaft. Sometimes the rubber will start to fold back on itself. The slight twist back and forth helps work it on the shaft with out having it fold the rubber. If the collar will pull off easy, then it might be easier to install the seal with the collar off. Then you can verify that the spring on the lip seal didn't get knocked out during install. Just make sure to retain the o'ring that seals the back of the collar.

Here's a pic of a seal puller

.

 

[Daren Todd]

Oh, forgot to mention, when installing the new seal, make sure and find something that will fit over the shaft that fits the outside edges of the seal, so the seal can get tapped in square. If it gets dented, it won't seal correctly.

Seen people use a piece of pvc with a coupler that happened to fit the seal. Doesn't really matter what you use as long as it fits the flat part of the seal

 

[andmel]

Thanks Darin! Much appreciated.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Easy replacement and DON'T do the starter trick, Yes I've done it too, the nut won't be that tight, I did mine with the trans off of it, so maybe a breaker bar and set the tractor in gear and brakes locked, and worse case a cheater bar for the breaker, once it's loose it should spin right off.

 

[andmel]

Thx Wolf,
Really appreciate the tips guys. This forum has been most valuable.