L245DTelectrical.

[davidjack]

Tractor stalled and wouldn't restart. Starter and solenoid work fine the bench. New battery. 13 volts to starter with key in off. 2 or so volts with key on. I can get only get the starter working with a separate cable from battery to starter terminal, but the thing won't fire up. Any ideas? I need to move it from where it is sitting.

 

[fj40dave]

Fuel cut-off solenoid grounding out?

Described as stall out...
No electric necessary to run, only to start and operate electrical stuff.....which points to the fuel system having an interruption.

I always try to keep it as simple as I can:

Air/Fuel/Compression

 

[fj40dave]

A couple of diagrams I have in a file from a rebuild I did on a L245 a while back.

 

[fj40dave]

This is one of two I have taken care of....hope yours is as loved!

 

[davidjack]

Fuel cut-off solenoid grounding out?

Described as stall out...
No electric necessary to run, only to start and operate electrical stuff.....which points to the fuel system having an interruption.

I always try to keep it as simple as I can:

Air/Fuel/Compression

Did get it to jump, put my wife in it to depress clutch, and it started right up. Only thing is, she never depressed the clutch. At least I have it where I can work on it now. Still won't start with the switch. I have a clutch safety switch also. Is there any way to disable It? Thanks for the diagram. Guess I'll start checking wires. I have had mine for over 30 years and no, it doesn't look near as nice as yours.
The solenoid was replaced in June. On the bench it works perfect. With the key turned on I only show 2 volts from battery to solenoid. Key off, 13 volts. Don't understand that, plus I couldn't jump from the solenoid to starter so I'll start with the battery cables I guess

 

[Russell King]

The wiring is pretty basic on these so start with the cables and make sure you have a good clean connection at both ends. Especially where the ground connects to the frame. You may want to see if grounding the starter to the battery negative helps. The starter mounting is the ground path and occasionally gets rusty and breaks the path.

The wiring to the clutch safety switch can just be connected directly to each other to bypass the safety switch. But you should get the tractor drive wheels off the ground or seriously blocked in case it starts in gear. I guess you can also block the clutch pedal down so it is safe. Just don’t get run over by the tractor if it happens to be in gear and the starter cranks the engine. Since you are trying to bypass the one safety switch you need to be safe.

The clutch safety wire comes from the starter switch to the safety switch and then to the starter solenoid. I believe that if you just went from battery positive to the same point on the solenoid it should crank and could start. Be careful if you try this. Tractor can run over you.

 

[fj40dave]

Only thing is, she never depressed the clutch.
I think your clutch switch would be in a continuous circuit.....ie; switch is not interrupted with the clutch out. I would recommend fixing that if so....huge safety issue.

Still won't start with the switch. I have a clutch safety switch also. Is there any way to disable It?
Again...if the clutch safety switch is what you're talking about disabling...please rethink that...only will take once starting the tractor in-gear while standing next to it (and getting run over) to regret it!

Thanks for the diagram. Guess I'll start checking wires.
I love the nuts and bolts and grease and fuel stuff.....wiring....not so much.....but it's a necessary evil. Up-side is.....when you've figured it out and solved the wiring issue....it's good stuff!

I have had mine for over 30 years and no, it doesn't look near as nice as yours.
The one in the picture belongs to a tree farm owner here locally.....and he really likes his tractors to look sharp and be dependable.....he has 2 L245's, and: L225, L235, B7100, L4060 that I keep up.

The solenoid was replaced in June. On the bench it works perfect. With the key turned on I only show 2 volts from battery to solenoid. Key off, 13 volts. Don't understand that, plus I couldn't jump from the solenoid to starter so I'll start with the battery cables I guess
Sounds like there's a short (voltage draw) is the switch...

 

[davidjack]

The wiring is pretty basic on these so start with the cables and make sure you have a good clean connection at both ends. Especially where the ground connects to the frame. You may want to see if grounding the starter to the battery negative helps. The starter mounting is the ground path and occasionally gets rusty and breaks the path.

The wiring to the clutch safety switch can just be connected directly to each other to bypass the safety switch. But you should get the tractor drive wheels off the ground or seriously blocked in case it starts in gear. I guess you can also block the clutch pedal down so it is safe. Just don’t get run over by the tractor if it happens to be in gear and the starter cranks the engine. Since you are trying to bypass the one safety switch you need to be safe.

The clutch safety wire comes from the starter switch to the safety switch and then to the starter solenoid. I believe that if you just went from battery positive to the same point on the solenoid it should crank and could start. Be careful if you try this. Tractor can run over you.

Well, bypassed the safety switch and she runs. Thanks for your help. Now if I can figure out the switch. It must work like a solenoid that goes to ground. The manual calls for a .037 gap between the switch and a bar connected to engine. But I don't know if I gap it with the key off or on with the clutch depressed.

 

[davidjack]

Clutch switch or wires to it from keyed switch. Got her running by wire form keyed switch to solenoid. Now to figure what to do about the safety switch

 

[Russell King]

The gap is set with the clutch pedal NOT depressed and key off.

Test switch first to see if it shows open circuit (no continuity) when in the unpressed and closed (continuity) when pressed in.