L245DT charging light

akcdualch

New member

Equipment
L245DT w/1200 FEL & BH750
Mar 17, 2010
12
0
0
Petaluma, CA USA
www.brytestar.com
Hi,
I've searched the forum but cannot find anything that relates to my problem. All of a sudden the charge light on the dash would stay on after starting. If the switch was turned to put the headlights on, either high or low, the light would go out. I put a voltmeter on the battery to check voltage and found that before starting the Bat read 12.5 V, after starting it read 16 v and light was on. Switching to lights on the voltage dropped to 14 v and 13.8 respectively.
OK so I changed the voltage regulator and the symptoms were the same. So I then put in a new alternator. Now the light is as before but the voltages are where they should be ie running w/no lights 12.8, w/low beam 13.5 and w/hi beam 13.8 and charge light is on when sw is moved to lights off. It's driving me crazy. Looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like there are diodes in the light circuit. Can anyone verify this and could they be causing the light to illuminate if one or more was bad?
 

thespanishfarmer

New member

Equipment
L1501 with rotavator and brush cutter
Apr 28, 2012
37
0
0
Cocentaina - Spain
Hi,
I submitted a similar charging light problem with my L1501 a month or so back. It is very frustrating to know that the system is charging but the light comes on. I have cleaned all connections, checked and double checked contacts and I still have problems. It was only a few days ago that I realised that by turning the ignition key to illuminate the lights, it would make a difference. I need to do more grass cutting over the next few days but when finished, I might remove the ignition switch and give it a service to the best of my ability. Whether or not it is connected to the problem I don't know but the ignition key is extremely loose in the barrel - so much so that I tether it to the steering column in case it falls out.

Gary
 

Kinque

New member
Aug 24, 2012
5
0
0
Alaska
Hi,
I've searched the forum but cannot find anything that relates to my problem. All of a sudden the charge light on the dash would stay on after starting. If the switch was turned to put the headlights on, either high or low, the light would go out. I put a voltmeter on the battery to check voltage and found that before starting the Bat read 12.5 V, after starting it read 16 v and light was on. Switching to lights on the voltage dropped to 14 v and 13.8 respectively.
OK so I changed the voltage regulator and the symptoms were the same. So I then put in a new alternator. Now the light is as before but the voltages are where they should be ie running w/no lights 12.8, w/low beam 13.5 and w/hi beam 13.8 and charge led tubes is on when sw is moved to lights off. It's driving me crazy. Looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like there are diodes in the light circuit. Can anyone verify this and could they be causing the light to illuminate if one or more was bad?
You need help of some expert or do some research in search engines.
 
Last edited:

thespanishfarmer

New member

Equipment
L1501 with rotavator and brush cutter
Apr 28, 2012
37
0
0
Cocentaina - Spain
'You need help of some expert or do some research in search engines.'

That was helpful - thanks.

The whole idea of posting a thread such as this on this forum is that you are more than likely to receive 'expert' advice from fellow Kubota owners that may have experienced the same or similar problems with their own machines as opposed to trawling through countless searches in search engines which will invariably bring you back here!!
 

akcdualch

New member

Equipment
L245DT w/1200 FEL & BH750
Mar 17, 2010
12
0
0
Petaluma, CA USA
www.brytestar.com
Kinque - Did you not read the part where I said that I've searched the Forum? I also spent quite a lot of time om other forums on the Internet relating to Kubota's.

Thespanishfarmer - Thanks for your reply and just a heads up. I'm looking at wiring from the Ign sw because it seens as though I'm not energizing the Alt & reg in the first position even though the oil light & charge light comes on. Will let you know what I find!
 

thespanishfarmer

New member

Equipment
L1501 with rotavator and brush cutter
Apr 28, 2012
37
0
0
Cocentaina - Spain
akcdualch

Appreciate that. I will await your findings.
I have to say that at the moment, it is so hot over here that I have not been to the tractor shed for a few days. I was using it last week though to cut my friends plot and it was running fine but it is so annoying to have the light on all the time.
I did mis inform you how ever - when I turn on my lights - dipped and full beam, the charging light still stays on. Sorry about that.

O'h yes - now my hours/tacho cable has snapped. I do love my tractor really.

Gary
 

Kytim

New member

Equipment
B6000DT, B7100DT,Snowplow, RM360, Scoop, Cultivator, Carryall,Disk, plow
Aug 14, 2009
848
11
0
Western Ky
One thing to keep in mind is that a auto/tractor style batt is 12volt nominal, meaning actual voltage is around 13.5 really. when energy is drained from the batt and the alt/gen is replacing it the voltage has to be greater than the batt at that time in order to overcome the static voltage and charge it. in other words voltage/current needs an extra "push" to overcome the internal resistance to create a charge condition.

now as to the lights, from my experience, what I have found is that the ground for lights in question usually has to deal with the ground for it. either losing the ground or getting/picking one up when it shouldn't have it. dirty connections, increased resistance, frayed wires, take all of these things into consideration in your search. I'm sorry I cant be more specific as i dont know your machines and what may have been changed or worn through the years.

good luck
 

akcdualch

New member

Equipment
L245DT w/1200 FEL & BH750
Mar 17, 2010
12
0
0
Petaluma, CA USA
www.brytestar.com
Well, a year has passed and finally everything is working as it should. Replaced are the voltage regulator, Alternator and Ignition switch. I finally sat down with the wiring diagram and drew a picture of the back of the IG sw with the color code of the wires and found that my worker had spliced the white wire that was supposed to go to the "B" terminal to the yellow wire going to the "T" terminal. My original problem of 16 volts in the run position was caused by the voltage regulator but everything got messed up when a young man who knew it all "arranged" the wiring. The "B" terminal of the switch now contains the AV3 Red wire plus the AV0.5 White wire, "IG" terminal has 2 ea AV3 Red/White wires, "T" terminal AV0.5 Yellow wire, "L2" terminal AV0.5 Orange and "L1" AV0.5 Brown wire. This is how the wiring diagram shows the wiring and everything is working like it is supposed to. Thanks to all who offered help and suggestions.

Akcdualch