L1720 loader with external hyd. pump kaput.

[ruben77]

Hello purchased a Kubota recently and had my first issue it is a 1980 l345dt with a L1720 factory installed loader with an external crank mounted pump.

The external hydraulic pump blew the shaft seal. Seems the shaft key came loose and came in contact with the seal and retainer clip. Pulled it off and I looked far and wide and managed to score as far as I know the last known seal kit for this particular pump from a dealer in Michigan.
The question I have is the whole set up is worn and I may manage to pull a few more years out of it If the rebuild goes well, has anyone upgraded or mounted a more readily available Hyd. Pump to this setup? Or something similar even if a bracket modification is required.

I will machine and rebuild the shafts on both ends as both are in bad shape. all parts as far as I know are discontinued it is short of a miracle it held as long as it did.

 

[Diydave]

Try looking at surpluscenter.com's site. You will need to know the particulars of your pump, GPM, PSI, shaft size and length, and case mounting info.

 

[007kubotaguy]

One option is to remove the pump and run the loader of the tractor hydraulics. Yes it wil be slower but not bad. It just depends how much you use the loader. Two hydraulic hoses and a block it is not to bad.
Good Luck Lance

 

[ruben77]

Thanks Guys

DiyDave Ill check it out.

007kubotaguy I will look into this, Don't need it to work fast just work. Have you done this set up before? know of any posts of where is the best place to connect to?

 

[007kubotaguy]

Hello Ruben
It is easy to hook it up to the tractor. Your tractor has a small block under the seat on left side. You remove this and install a new block that you hook the hoses to . I sent you a PM.
Good Luck Lance

 

[Shadetree55]

Hello Ruben
It is easy to hook it up to the tractor. Your tractor has a small block under the seat on left side. You remove this and install a new block that you hook the hoses to . I sent you a PM.
Good Luck Lance

I know this thread is almost 10 years old but could I get some more info from you on how to connect directly to my tractor? Thank you

 

[Russell King]

@Shadetree55

I can’t provide you a direct answer but some (hopefully) helpful information.

See this illustration for your tractor. The block cover #20 is what you need to replace with a different block cover (see below illustration for more information)

This thread shows how a similar cover is drilled for current oil flow and then a replacement cover that is made to divert the hydraulic flow out to an implement (valve) and then back to the tractor. You may be able to use that same cover if the dimensions match what are shown. You may have to contact @torch or @TheOldHokie to have one made or get it machined at a local machine shop.

B7100 Hydraulic block diverter (70060-00360 or 70070-00385)

Back in stock. CDN$40 plus actual shipping These are obsolete and no longer available. I have recently been contacted by a member asking if I will make him one of these after reading how I made mine. I know this comes up from time to time and would like to gauge the interest others might have...

www.orangetractortalks.com

 

[Russell King]

@Shadetree55
Here is that cover installed on my L185 in a slightly different location on the tractor. The hard steel line (with red highlight) is the output line of the pump. The block diverts the flow out to the red highlighted hydraulic line that goes to a rear remote valve. From that valve the flow returns to the block through the hydraulic line with blue highlight and is diverted into the hard line with blue highlight which goes to the tractor three point control valve and dumps back into the sump for the pump to use again. The green line is the tank return from the valve for when a cylinder is extended or retracted.