L1501/L185 Charging Light Woes

[thespanishfarmer]

Hi all.

I am in need of some input (again) from you guys please.
I recently replaced a freeze plug which nessecitated removing the alternator and starter motor to get access behind them. Up to this point, I had no electrical issues. After the replacement of all removed parts I had a good two hours use without problems. I then noticed that the charging light began to flicker then later the flicker became a glow for a few seconds, then minutes but it would always go out eventually. Now however it stays on continuously.
So what have I done so far?
I have checked all conections (visible and behind the dash) which are all good and tight. I have removed the alternator connections and reconnected. I have checked the power output from the alternator and I am getting a good 13.6 to 13.8 volts to the battery. The battery was new in March this year when I bought the tractor from a dealer.
I have read on various other threads that the replacement of the voltage regulator has solved similar problems but so has cleaning dirty contacts. The regulator is cost prohibitive for me in Spain unless there is no other solution so this is where I am seeking advice from you good people.
Thanks in advance.
Gary

 

[gpreuss]

There are a couple of slip rings in the alternator. The voltage regulator usually puts out a small voltage about 4VDC if I remember right. The 4V goes through the slip rings, and energizes the rotating coil. The pole pieces of the rotating coil are made such that they transfer magnetic energy out to the stator winding poles, causing AC in the stator. Then. diodes in the alternator put out the 14VDC.
There is a fair chance the brushes aren't making good contact with the slip ring. That could cause a low current in the rotating coil, and poor output from the alternator.
Another silly thing to recommend is to check the pulley on the alternator. If it is slipping, you won't get a good output. Or, if the fan belt is loose.
Most likely, however, is the brushes and slip ring.

 

[thespanishfarmer]

Thanks for the reply gpreuss. Please excuse my ignorance but where are the 'slip rings' as I have had a look in the parts manual and can't find any terminology that represents them. Are they known by another name. Sounds logical although I thought my output of 13.8 volts would have been about right. Perhaps you could affirm.

 

[gpreuss]

The rotor is the shaft that runs through the alternator, and has the rotating coil. When you have the alternator in your hand and spin the pulley, the coil that is moving inside it is the rotating coil. Somehow it has to connect to the outside world. On one end of it there should be two rings that make those electrical connections. Riding on the sliprings should be brushes - one on each ring. They are probably like the brushes in an electric drill. The brushes are pushed down on the sliprings somehow with springs.
The brushes can be worn down, but that really is not too likely. In the electric drill the brushes press against many individual pieces of copper. As the pieces rotate, they wear down the brush. In the alternator the brushes are pressing on smooth copper rings, with very little wear.
The springs can be bad, the brushes can be bad, but not likely, there can be dirt between the slipring and brush, or there can be an internal bad connection.
Since the sliprings are not really separate parts of the alternator, you will not find them in a parts manual. There should be a listing for the brushes and springs. If you are looking at the tractor list, probably the complete alternator is the only part listed.
If you were to take the alternator to the local garage, there is a fair chance they will have the whole assembly on the shelf - at least something quite similar. Or you can find one at a junk yard. The bad part is that I cannot begin to describe to you what can be involved in changing one out, both physically and electrically. If you find the exact alternator and they are plug compatible, it would be easy. Otherwise you might have to know a bit about what you are doing.
If you are getting 13.8VDC actually to the battery, I guess there is a fair chance it is just a sensor gone bad. You have to measure the voltage with the tractor not running, at idle, and with about 1500rpms. If it is increasing while running, and with rpm, then the alternator may well be OK.

 

[thespanishfarmer]

Very descriptive reply and explains things very well. Thank you for taking the time to write such a comprehensive text. I will try the tests with the engine not running, idle and at 1500 rpm and see what results I get.
If the alternator is charging the battery then I shall learn to live with the charging light on whilst I save up for a new regulator. (I could always remove the bulb !!)
Thanks again.
Gary

 

[gpreuss]

I had a L185 for 35 years, but don't remember a charge indicator on it. All I remember is the oil pressure light. I guess that is what happens when you get old, and are learning the new one.
If the battery is charging OK that should mean the regulator is OK. I don't know what would turn on the charging light.

 

[thespanishfarmer]

Ah well, as the title of this thread suggests, I have a L1501 which is the same as the L185 but being a 'grey import' purchased in Spain, who knows. I have an electrically operated hydraulic system on it which no-one here appears to have heard of either.
Just for your info, there appears to be no problem with the alternator as I have increasing voltage from no engine to idle up to 1500 rpm.

 

[Orange Tractors]

Gary,

I have an L175, which probably has the same alternator as your L1501. I recently had the flickering charge light; mine was the two wire plug on the back of the alternator, cleaning the terminals and ensuring it made good contact fixed my issues.

As I have commented before- the alternator on my Kubota looks like the Nippon-Denso ones that came in Datsun vehicles (and probably anything Japanese) in the 1970's and 80's.

Good luck,

Robert

 

[thespanishfarmer]

Thanks Robert.
I have a 3 wire plug plus the thick red one for the battery. I have been using my tractor all morning and the light is now on continuously without any flickering.
I will however give those terminals at the back of the alternator a clean and see what happens.

I will also see if I can find a part number on the alternator to find out possibly where it originated. Like I said though, it does seem to be working ok to charge the battery but it would be interesting to find out in any case.

Gary

 

[thespanishfarmer]

I just thought I would give you guys an update of my charging light problem which today has been solved. Some may benefit if a similar issue arose.

As luck would have it, my hours/rev counter cable snapped a short while back and today I having been sent a replacement from the dealer (under warranty) I set about fitting it. The whole dash came off for this which meant I was able to get access to some electrics that I hadn't previously.

In short, I took off the voltage regulator, cleaned the contacts in the plug and then took the regulator cover off. I cleaned all the contct points (rather like the contact points in an old petrol engine) inside with a fine abrasive.

I cleaned every single bullet connection and removed all the wires from from the ignition/light switch and fuse box and cleaned up all the contacts with a fine abrasive.

I put everything back together, fired her up and hey presto - charging light went out.

Now, I had cleaned all the wire connections before but the only thing I hadn't touched was the voltage regulator.
If any of you get a similar problem and your alternator is providing an adequate charge then it may be wise to take the regulator apart and simply clean the contacts in side. You'll save money into the bargain.

I wonder how many regulators have been discarded when all they need was a spring clean.

All the best guys from a very happy Spanish farmer.

Gary

 

[Rosher18]

I hate to revive such an old thread, but I'm hoping someone can help me out: the charging system light on my L185DT stays dimly lit while the motor is running at any speed. Is this normal? The light is very bright when the motor is off with the key on. It seems from this thread like the light should be completely off if the system is functioning normally.

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[Tooljunkie]

Mine glows a little too. If you are really bothered by it then install a voltmeter. Will be a continious update and diagnosis of your electrical system. From battery condition to voltage drop while cranking to alternator output.

 

[Butch]

Thanks so much for your thread... My charging light just started to flicker today... will do checks as suggested.... stand by guys news tomorrow!

may take a little time... 5 weeks into a triple bypass and still somewhat sore...

 

[Daren Todd]

Thanks so much for your thread... My charging light just started to flicker today... will do checks as suggested.... stand by guys news tomorrow!



may take a little time... 5 weeks into a triple bypass and still somewhat sore...

Glad your getting up and about with your surgery and doing good.

My dad went through it a couple years ago. Took about 3 months to be able to run around on the mower and be able to drive. And 6 months to get off restrictions. Hardest part about it is going from being active to all the limitations they put on you till ya heal. I personally would have a really hard time being still, and letting other folks handle the lifting.


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