Thanks for the picture - pretty much what I garnered from the parts list and I agree its likely too big to fit inside the 19.5 wheel. See my other reply for my other thoughts.This is that weight on a 24" rim. The same disk that would come with the r1 for your tractor. Mine was a 3560 and it shared the same disk for the r1/r4 same as r1 for the 3901. As long as the interior diameter can facilitate the weight it would work. I don't think a 19.5 would have enough room...
I think I see how that worked. The adapter I pictured was used on Ford's dual wheel setups. The hex with female thread secured the inner wheel like a conventional lug nut. Then the outer wheel bolted to the male extensions using a spacer ring and a second nut. At one point those adapters were hard to get and I have made more than a few of them.These hold the inner wheels on duals if the outer comes off. vs-The more conventional way for smaller rigs is one nut sandwiching both rims at once.
Yes - my motto is KISS. and after a little straight edge work I think that's the way to go. Use three longer studs staggered at 120 degrees as pilots for the first plate. Use a hex hex nut on each stud to hold the wheel to the hub as per factory which will also space the first plate up clear of the three cap screws and dish on the wheel. Then use a second nut to hold that first plate to the studs. Layer two more plates on to that base plate using three cap screws for each additional plate."edit"
May be easier to find longer lug studs and slide the plate over the extended portion past the original lug nut. I know the factory puts like two studs as locators, and the rest bolts. You could swap for more than the two studs.
Thanks but apparently my arithmetic isn't as good as my thinking Some how I came up with the wrong density for steel and it wasn't even close. The plates need to be 16" to get to that 180# number. Other than cost should not be an issue - here is a 14" faceplate set inside the wheel and there seems to be plenty of clearance. Thicker plate might be better but I am not sure what the local metal supply's capabilities are.I like the way you think. Im always a fan for improvement with little to no degradation to oem form.
Just curious why you don't want alternative solutions, compared to what you are going thru getting weights on there? 3pt ballast also adds the benefit of less front axle strain/wear. Not being argumentative, just curious if it's a special application you have/need.Just took delivery of a L3901 with LA525 loader and loaded R4s. Its clear it needs more ballast. Looking for wheel weight recommendations from folks that have put them on their tractor - OEM or after market sources. And yes - rear wheel weights - not alternative solutions.
You ask for help then limit the answers. The correct fix is to ballast the 3 point hitch to reduce the load on the front axle. Rear weights will help keep the tires on the ground but they do nothing to lighten the load on the front axle, tires, and power steering plus related parts. If rear hanging weight box is built correctly it can fit between the 3 point arms. There is an example on OTT where the box is full of melted down wheel weights and it is very small and very heavy.Just took delivery of a L3901 with LA525 loader and loaded R4s. Its clear it needs more ballast. Looking for wheel weight recommendations from folks that have put them on their tractor - OEM or after market sources. And yes - rear wheel weights - not alternative solutions.
Thank you all for your input. I have had another week in the seat of the new machine and I am getting more accustomed to it.I think you bought the wrong tractor if you want to run R4s and weights on a L01. MX models had that option though.
I think the best option would be stay where you are and add spacers, or go to R1s with weights. At least, I think R1s accept weights even if you go to the maximum position.
I’m still getting used to the feeling of my L01 with a rear attachment on, but I think it’s going to work for me. I was kind of surprised that L01s don’t have weights as an option on R4s but other models do. I have the factory 1 in spacers. I should have bought 3 inch after market ones in hindsight although the dealer installed the 1 inch spacers.