J10502 TOP LINK pin removal to replace screw end

[jch92]

How do I remove the retention pin (I hear its spring loaded) to replace the non-jam end of my Kubota top link? Do I remove the grease nipple?

 

[Russell King]

It is probably a roll pin through the threaded rod.

You should have a hole through the center part of the top link. One side is probably the grease nipple and the other hole is probably a plug. Remove both and drive the pin out and then grab it and pull it out.

You may need to get as much grease out of the way to see the pin but it should be near the end of the threaded rod.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

maybe ( ??) an online parts diagram will shed light as to how it's made ????

 

[19thSF]

How do I remove the retention pin (I hear its spring loaded) to replace the non-jam end of my Kubota top link? Do I remove the grease nipple?

Hello JCH92,

According the the online parts manual, you should be able to buy all the top link sub-components. Use this link, to go to you tractor and look up the parts.

Kubota Tractor Corporation - Illustrated Parts List

- K-PAD - Parts Lists - Illustrated Parts Lists - diagrams

apps.kubotausa.com

On my B2650 Kubota destroyed the top link threads in the area of the roll pin. You can't take it apart, so you are left having to buy an entire top link.

Good luck with it!

Bob

 

[jch92]

So there are no other access holes on the entire center link body other than the grease nipples, unless they are under the welded handles for tightening/loosening the toplink. I think I may have a "non-repairable model. I will probably return the new threaded piece and eat the $475 Messicks wants for OEM unless anyone has any recommendations.

 

[Russell King]

Odd. I would think that the handle might be the secret since I have seen some top links that you have to drive the handle through the two holes but you say that yours is welded.

I would think that you could find a cheaper aftermarket top link for a lot less.

For the cost of the OEM top link you can get a hydraulic one cheaper!!

What is wrong with the section you want to replace?

You could just screw it out as far as you can and then cut it off. Screw the short piece back into the center and let it rattle around inside or try to drill it out? Install the new one and drive the pin into the hole through tthe grease nipple hole.

I would try to pull the existing pin out of the grease nipple hole before I gave up or returned the part. It may just pull out using some flat nose pliers or some thicker needle nose pliers.

I guess you could also get the center handle welds cut off and then replace the handle after the replacement of the damaged end?

 

[19thSF]

View attachment 90522 View attachment 90523
So there are no other access holes on the entire center link body other than the grease nipples, unless they are under the welded handles for tightening/loosening the toplink. I think I may have a "non-repairable model. I will probably return the new threaded piece and eat the $475 Messicks wants for OEM unless anyone has any recommendations.

Here is an after market supplier. I bought one of their top links and couldn't tell it from the original.

Kubota Top Link Assembly

We are an online marketplace for aftermarket spare parts. We offer a user-first online experience and strive to offer you the best prices in the market.

www.eparts.shop

 

[jch92]

Here is an after market supplier. I bought one of their top links and couldn't tell it from the original.

Kubota Top Link Assembly

We are an online marketplace for aftermarket spare parts. We offer a user-first online experience and strive to offer you the best prices in the market.

www.eparts.shop

Odd. I would think that the handle might be the secret since I have seen some top links that you have to drive the handle through the two holes but you say that yours is welded.

I would think that you could find a cheaper aftermarket top link for a lot less.

For the cost of the OEM top link you can get a hydraulic one cheaper!!

What is wrong with the section you want to replace?

You could just screw it out as far as you can and then cut it off. Screw the short piece back into the center and let it rattle around inside or try to drill it out? Install the new one and drive the pin into the hole through tthe grease nipple hole.

I would try to pull the existing pin out of the grease nipple hole before I gave up or returned the part. It may just pull out using some flat nose pliers or some thicker needle nose pliers.

I guess you could also get the center handle welds cut off and then replace the handle after the replacement of the damaged end?

So the Grease nipple hole was the key. It was merely a threaded nipple and once I unscrewed it, and degreased the crap out of it for 20 minutes, I used a magnet to pull the roll/spring pin out of the nipple hole.

Installed the new piece without issue. Greased her up and we are ready to bush-hog again!

Thanks for all the help, everyone!

 

[Russell King]

Good news on getting it fixed and thank you for posting the information about how it is supposed to be done.

It is strange that the pin would be that loose that a magnet would hold onto it enough to pull it out.