Hi there! I have been lurking here off and on the last few months after deciding that I was 100% going to get a tractor instead of just thinking about getting one. I am taking delivery of my l2501 tomorrow. I have it with the 526 loader w/quick attach and a bb12 box blade. I have many projects planned for it, and it will be a huge help to have around the house! Also, Its going to be a learning experience as I have never driven any piece of equipment bigger than a lawn tractor (and that was just this year) so I will be looking forward to reading all the operating tips on here as well.
Introduction
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Lil Foot
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
1979 B7100DT Gear, Nissan Hanix N150-2 Excavator
Welcome aboard. It's natural to feel intimidated at first.
First thing, get out the Operator Manual and use the lubrication diagram to check that everything has been lubricated. The front axle oil and all grease zerks especially. You'll need a grease gun before long, if you don't have one.
Next, get it in an open area with the Op Man and get used to all the controls before you try to work in close quarters. With the HST, don't think of the treadle as the accelerator. It's really like a gear shifter.
When you shut down, check for any leaks.
Good luck, be safe and enjoy.
First thing, get out the Operator Manual and use the lubrication diagram to check that everything has been lubricated. The front axle oil and all grease zerks especially. You'll need a grease gun before long, if you don't have one.
Next, get it in an open area with the Op Man and get used to all the controls before you try to work in close quarters. With the HST, don't think of the treadle as the accelerator. It's really like a gear shifter.
When you shut down, check for any leaks.
Good luck, be safe and enjoy.
Thanks for the tips! Recently got one of the grease guns that can lock onto the zerks, just need to get the appropriate grease for the tractor. My only other thing is figuring out where to get the kubota oil/fluids w/o driving 40 mins to dealer, was looking into ordering from messicks, but haven't priced out shipping yet.
The general consensus on here is to stick with Kubota filters and Super UDT2 transmission fluid for your tractor. Engine oil and grease - anything that meets the specs in the Op Man.
I had to get a second grease gun so I have 2 nozzles because the locking one can't get some of the zerks in tight spots.
Try to remember to not leave the parking brake on.
Try to remember to not leave the parking brake on.
Bmyers
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
Grand L3560 with LA805 loader, EA 55" Wicked Grapple, SBX72 BB, LP 1272 mower
Thanks everyone. Did a little bit of box blade and Back dragging work after going through the manual and checking levels. couldnt believe how easy it could get through the mud with a full box blade. I do have one question the manual does not answer, is the hour meter only correct if running at 2k rpm’s? I saw a post on here and now I can’t find it that the hour meter is linked to rpm. So if your not at the pto rpm it counts slower or faster?
If it has a mechanical tach, it records proportional to rated engine speed. If electrical, it records actual clock hours.
okay, so being mechanical best to run at rated speed then for most accurate hour Readout?
I wouldn't let that determine my operating speed. On the other hand, you have the HST so you'll probably set an engine speed and control ground speed with the treadle. Experiment a little.
The following is only my opinion, I could be wrong.
The proof meter reads correctly at the PTO speed in order to best indicate engine "Use and wear". Doesn't count idling for much, counts hard running as more.
If you want to know actual time you could add an electronic meter. Kinda like the football ref with 2 watches.
Yeah I'd like to install one, will be a nice little intro to working on the tractor i suppose.
Okay, good to know, I am new to diesel engines, I assume it would be fine to run it at any engine speed, just don't wanna prematurely wear the engine.
It's pretty easy to add a real hour meter, and not expensive. Then you have the best of both worlds. (Except I don't see any advantage to the mechanical version, other than cost saving to the manufacturer.)