Identifying pieces and upgrades

135Sohc

New member

Equipment
B1750, SA223
Nov 10, 2024
11
4
3
U.S.A
The 1750 I purchased recently had an aftermarket hard shell cab/combined ROPS structure installed on it until yesterday. To install this cab the tractor was hacked really bad. Add on 3 decades of neglect/abuse and I am having a hard time understanding what should be where, what is missing and things of that nature.

Item #1: Forward of the brake and clutch pedals I had what appeared to be the remains of a cross member that was chopped off in the center but the end brackets were left behind.
Finding a picture online of a 'stock' tractor with those brackets facing outward kubota 1.jpg I circled the item in question. Are those brackets a functional item ? Some tractors I see have them, some do not to have them. Listing with pictures. On another picture in that listing taken from the other side there appears to be a rod of some sort spanning across the bottom.
 

jaxs

Well-known member

Equipment
B1750HST
Jun 22, 2023
920
700
93
Texas
i have a B1750 and it doesn't have what you circled. Possibly added for something by a previous owner.
 

Russell King

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Lifetime Member

Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
6,390
2,033
113
Austin, Texas
You may want to contact @Mountainman since he may know about your model

you can also look at illustrated parts list of the tractor and implements here
 
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135Sohc

New member

Equipment
B1750, SA223
Nov 10, 2024
11
4
3
U.S.A
Good to know on the brackets.

Has anyone here have first hand experience with a one wire alternator on these ? The factory voltage regulator was a crusty green pile of junk. A one wire alternator would greatly simplify things and clean up some of the wiring.
 

GreensvilleJay

Well-known member

Equipment
BX23-S,57 A-C D-14,58 A-C D-14, 57 A-C D-14,tiller,cults,Millcreek 25G spreader,
Apr 2, 2019
12,935
5,664
113
Greensville,Ontario,Canada
You'll need to check the RPM needed for the one wire alternator to start making electrons and size it's pulley according to what revs you run your tractor at.
Not all 'one wire' alternators are the same.
Also, size it for the existing wiring OR replace as needed ,based on the current output of the alternator
 

135Sohc

New member

Equipment
B1750, SA223
Nov 10, 2024
11
4
3
U.S.A
The currently installed alternator is a somewhat newer replacement (the case is not all oxidized yet) with no identifying markings at all. The Brillman alternator and the unit on the tractor both have the same size pulley and appear to be the same physical unit. These are all likely Chinese origin clones of the good original Denso units.

I would not mind going back to a external voltage regulator if there was a simple 12v solid state version that was not total trash. Like the old school Chrysler voltage regulator from 1970-early 90's.
 
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North Idaho Wolfman

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Staff member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Jun 9, 2013
33,404
8,707
113
Sandpoint, ID
I've installed quite a few One wire alternators on Kubota engines of all sizes.
Nothing that complicated, you just have to find a place to mount it and make the brackets if not available.
 

135Sohc

New member

Equipment
B1750, SA223
Nov 10, 2024
11
4
3
U.S.A
Good to go on the alternator.

Next issue. Kubota parts catalog.
Item numbers 70, 80, 90
Fender mounting onto the rear axle/transmission.

I bought a stud from Messicks (#90) to have a sample to work it. The cushion (#70) was $75.. no I did not buy one and the spacer #80 is discontinued anyways.

Attempting to locate a clear picture of how the fenders are mounted is proving useless as the ROPS conveniently obscures that view.

If someone with a 1550/1750 and could provide a clear direct on picture of the fender mounting to the axle/transmission I would appreciate it.
 

North Idaho Wolfman

Moderator
Staff member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Jun 9, 2013
33,404
8,707
113
Sandpoint, ID
Good to go on the alternator.

Next issue. Kubota parts catalog.
Item numbers 70, 80, 90
Fender mounting onto the rear axle/transmission.

I bought a stud from Messicks (#90) to have a sample to work it. The cushion (#70) was $75.. no I did not buy one and the spacer #80 is discontinued anyways.

Attempting to locate a clear picture of how the fenders are mounted is proving useless as the ROPS conveniently obscures that view.

If someone with a 1550/1750 and could provide a clear direct on picture of the fender mounting to the axle/transmission I would appreciate it.
It bolts to the brake cover:
1733971187414.png


1733971256969.png
 

Mountainman

Active member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L2501, B7100, B2710 B21, B1750, B2400, B7200
Jul 10, 2022
419
161
43
Attalla Alabama
mossycreekoutdoors.com
Good to go on the alternator.

Next issue. Kubota parts catalog.
Item numbers 70, 80, 90
Fender mounting onto the rear axle/transmission.

I bought a stud from Messicks (#90) to have a sample to work it. The cushion (#70) was $75.. no I did not buy one and the spacer #80 is discontinued anyways.

Attempting to locate a clear picture of how the fenders are mounted is proving useless as the ROPS conveniently obscures that view.

If someone with a 1550/1750 and could provide a clear direct on picture of the fender mounting to the axle/transmission I would appreciate it.
As @North Idaho Wolfman said it bolts to the brake cover using the spacers in between the fender and brake cover. I can send you pictures tomorrow
 

135Sohc

New member

Equipment
B1750, SA223
Nov 10, 2024
11
4
3
U.S.A
Yes. I know that.

The question is, what is the make up of the cushion and spacer assembly ?

I did just find this picture. which maybe confirms what I thought. The 'cushion' spans the entire gap between the fender and brake housing. The spacer tube inside is probably slightly shorter overall all length (OAL) than the cushion to allow for a slight compression of the cushion but still function as a compression limiter.

That is all speculation on my part though.

Edit: Mountainman posted as I was replying.
 

Mountainman

Active member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L2501, B7100, B2710 B21, B1750, B2400, B7200
Jul 10, 2022
419
161
43
Attalla Alabama
mossycreekoutdoors.com
Yes. I know that.

The question is, what is the make up of the cushion and spacer assembly ?

I did just find this picture. which maybe confirms what I thought. The 'cushion' spans the entire gap between the fender and brake housing. The spacer tube inside is probably slightly shorter overall all length (OAL) than the cushion to allow for a slight compression of the cushion but still function as a compression limiter.

That is all speculation on my part though.

Edit: Mountainman posted as I was replying.
I believe they are the same length. The cushion is plastic and the spacer is metal.
 

135Sohc

New member

Equipment
B1750, SA223
Nov 10, 2024
11
4
3
U.S.A
A new day and another slew of problems found.

All the linkage bits and pieces associated with the forward-reverse pedal are/were extremely worn.

Got a new neutral return spring, pivot bushing and the roller bearing for the neutral return assembly from Messicks. For the two pieces that the spring connects, they were 50% worn through. I got both welded up and re-drilled.

For the triangular-ish shaped plate that is keyed and bolted to the treadle pedal shaft. The dampener attachment hole and the linkage hole for the rod to connect to the HST were both easily double the size they should be in the forward-aft direction of movement. Kubota wants $100 for the plate, I said no and tomorrow I should have the permanent fix completed.

For the rod that connects the pedal to the HST Kubota wanted $70 and again i said NO. Tomorrow I should have a solid permanent fix on its way to completion.

The linkage piece on the HST itself. # 010 in the catalog

The hole in the end of that part is from what I can see very worn just like everything else. I want to pull that piece off and drill/ream and put a flanged bushing in there to fix it permanently. The problem being there is no room to do so without splitting the tractor apart...

I have never done such a thing. Seems very straight forward, I would drive the pins out and remove the two driveshaft yokes from their respective splined outputs. Leaving them with the front half so as not to disturb the clutch and front axle.

Disconnect the brake and diff lock linkages, wedge the front end so it does not flop over on the swing pivot bolt and of course the hydraulic lines.

Any major unforeseen disasters I could come across doing this ? I have the o-rings and copper washers for all the hydraulic connections in stock.