Ideas for building 3-pt ballast/carry all

[BobInSD]

I have been contemplating filling a 55-gallon drum with cement and whatever scrap metal I have on hand and calling it good. I'm not sure how often I would need the weight when I wouldn't already have an implement on the rear, and the ability to hang extra weights off of my box-blade and/or off of the front if I don't have the loader on might be a plus.

I have about 350-400 pounds of lead window weights and another 180 pounds of rusty worn out tire chains. Lumping them into 50 # chunks so I could easily lift them on and off and fabricating a bracket to hang these bundles off of the BB or the grill guard seems like it might be worth a shot. (Basically make them into poor man's suitcase weights?). I'm an abysmal welder, but this might be a good chance to learn/improve (realize I can't weld lead, but maybe make some boxes and or use some of the brake drums/rotors/bent steel rims scattered around the place):

I've never had a tractor where the loader came off (easily), so I don't even know if I'd want to hang them off the front. If I'm moving dirt/gravel there's normally a blade on the back. I don't know how much I'd use a "carry all" and like the looks/expense/effort/durability of the wooden ones I've seen in videos but the ability to put some weight low and close to the tractor would be a plus. I don't really know how much weight I need, but if I have a combination of cement and steel I'd rather have the steel lower (but easy to take on and off?

OK, let's hear some design ideas!

Thanks,

Bob

 

[jimh406]

Look at the existing ballast box designs what I don’t like about most of them is that they don’t have removable pins. I think that would be very helpful if you don’t have a quickhitch.

In your design, think about how stable it will be off the tractor and the type of connection. I find the implements that use a removable pin to be easier to connect/disconnect. I find it easier to drive a pin out than taking moving the lower links out.

 

[Baymee]

I’ve been checking out u tube videos on making a ballast.

I’d like to hear more about removable pin vs. moving the lower links in and out. Can someone offer a more detailed explanation of this or point me to an existing link?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I've used a homemade 'carryall' for 2+ decades. The ballast box is a skid with sides, weight inside. When ballast is needed, simply backup to 'ballast skid' ,lift and go..... when done, just drop it off.
NO messing with 3PH pins,arms,etc. SIMPLE 10 seconds on or off of the b-box. Also removing the 'carryall' is easy as it's lightweight, maybe 30-40 seconds....
On the other hand a 200-400# 3PH ballast box WILL be a bear to get on/off unless you've got a huge concrete pad !

 

[Baymee]

I've used a homemade 'carryall' for 2+ decades. The ballast box is a skid with sides, weight inside. When ballast is needed, simply backup to 'ballast skid' ,lift and go..... when done, just drop it off.
NO messing with 3PH pins,arms,etc. SIMPLE 10 seconds on or off of the b-box. Also removing the 'carryall' is easy as it's lightweight, maybe 30-40 seconds....
On the other hand a 200-400# 3PH ballast box WILL be a bear to get on/off unless you've got a huge concrete pad !

Can you show a picture of this. What do you lift it with?

 

[Baymee]

Another question is how much weight is needed as ballast for a front end loader? If the loader is rated to lift approx. 500 lbs, how much ballast is more than enough on the back?

 

[ctfjr]

I haven't had great success in the woods with using an implement (box blade or back blade) as ballast. I find I'm really good at finding obstacles when turning
I took a standard ballast box you can find on ebay, filled it with concrete and a lifting lug. Its about 700lbs, doesn't hang off the back very far and easy to pick up with a top n tilt no matter where I drop it.
For me it's just fine.

 

[BobInSD]

I’ve been checking out u tube videos on making a ballast.

I’d like to hear more about removable pin vs. moving the lower links in and out. Can someone offer a more detailed explanation of this or point me to an existing link?

Here is a picture of an older snowblower that I was thinking of stealing the mounting brackets off of.

This one works for Cat I or II. The pin has a shoulder so the inside slot is Cat I (spread and diameter) while the outside is Cat II.

Another question is how much weight is needed as ballast for a front end loader? If the loader is rated to lift approx. 500 lbs, how much ballast is more than enough on the back?

Very good question (and I'm listening for the correct answer). In the past I wanted most of the weight on the rear wheels but I didn't have front wheel assist on those tractors. Once I figure out how much of the weight I want on front vs back I figured I'd treat the tractor like a see-saw rocking on the rear wheels and figure out how far the loader bucket is in front vs how far the three point is in back. I think my loader can lift 1800 # and that's a lot further in front of the rear wheels than the 3-pt is behind. I was thinking at least 1000-1500 # with the ability to add and remove my 5-600# of cast & chains.


Again, I'm just taking a WAG at this for now so anybody with knowledge please chime in. Unfortunately my owners manual just says to use "enough" and isn't very helpful.

 

[Baymee]

I've used a homemade 'carryall' for 2+ decades. The ballast box is a skid with sides, weight inside. When ballast is needed, simply backup to 'ballast skid' ,lift and go..... when done, just drop it off.
NO messing with 3PH pins,arms,etc. SIMPLE 10 seconds on or off of the b-box. Also removing the 'carryall' is easy as it's lightweight, maybe 30-40 seconds....
On the other hand a 200-400# 3PH ballast box WILL be a bear to get on/off unless you've got a huge concrete pad !

How do you pick up this carryall? Can you show some pics?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

Here's the original one I made 2 decades ago for my Allis-Chalmers D-14 to replace the front loader/trip bucket. Forklift forks just hang on the top bar,in the notches,straps hold the btms from moving. It'll carry a 3,000# log no problem. To haul 'skids of stuff'....simply lower to ground, backup to skid, raise skid and go.....
Several mfrs sell '3PH carryalls', none for the Snap-Coupler system though so I spent couple hours to make this. The 2" rcvr eliminates the drawbar,easy to pull ANY trailer,here,there,anywhere.....

 

[Baymee]

Ok now i understand how you pick up a skid. Is the top rail made of two pcs of 1/4" steel bar? And the tubing is standard wall thickness?

So you hook this to the 3 pt hitch and add the forks

 

[i7win7]

L5740 / LA854 loader specs

Rear lift (at ends): 3,860 lbs 1750 kg
Rear lift (at 24"/610mm): 2,980 lbs 1351 kg

FEL
Lift to full height (at pin):[2,489 lbs 1129 kg
Lift to full height (at 500mm): 1,878 lbs 851 kg

Guessing 200-2400# ballast should be a good starting point. Owners manual should tell you how much ballast (wheel weights, loaded tires, 3pt)

Something this heavy, you really need a QH and a parking stand

 

[BobInSD]

Guessing 200-2400# ballast should be a good starting point. Owners manual should tell you how much ballast (wheel weights, loaded tires, 3pt)

I assume you're saying 2000-2400# (I first read it as 200-400 and almost skipped over the rest of your reply.)

Unfortunately the owner's manual is rather vague:

"Add weight to the rear wheels if needed to improve traction or for stability. The amount of rear ballast should be matched to job and the ballast should be removed when it is not needed"

The separate manual for the loader states:

"For tractor stability and operator's safety, rear ballast should be added to the rear of the tractor in the form of 3-point counter weight and rear wheel ballast. The amount of rear ballast will depend on the application"

and later:

"When mounting a heavy rear implement, liquid in the tires may not be required"

So, I guess I'm left with a calculation such as you've done above.

Something this heavy, you really need a QH and a parking stand

That's what my dad says also, but I'm not seeing needing a quick hitch. I have several implements that I can't budge by hand and hitching up to them with the Kubota is soooo much easier than with my JD 3020. Of course, the telescoping lower links on that had siezed long before I got it. The ends of the lower links could not come any closer together than when an implement was installed (without unbolting the sway blocks) so positioning the tractor was very critical, with many aborted back-up attempts. If I can hitch up to my IH-80 snowblower I can hook up to a ballast box. All of my implements sit about 5 inches farther back on this tractor and I'm in serious danger of needing all new PTO shafts if I add a quick hitch.

Edit to add: Thanks for the advice. If my tone above is harsh it is not on purpose!

 

[Baymee]

I worked in industry where I had to learn how to maintain/repair 250 pieces of machinery. I’m feeling like we just got a bunch of new equipment.

My brain is swimming right now with all the things I have to know right now because I never had a 3PH or implements before. I’m trying to buy the right stuff the first time around.

My main needs are building a ballast that I can easily back up to and hook up, whether it uses forks or a quick hitch and whether to fill my front tires with liquid when using a front end loader and chains on the rear tires. By the way, the square tubing used on purchased 3PH carryalls is welded to the framework and extends back a little too far for my comfort. I’d like to know how many welds fail when trying to pick up a 600 lb ballast. The fork idea that Jay built, seems much better.

 

[BobInSD]

..... whether to fill my front tires with liquid when using a front end loader ...

I know some people fill them, and I have no experience either way but when I was flipping through the manuals for my post last night it warned to never put liquid in the front tires of the 5740. No idea if that's lawyer talk or real advice. I could see it being harder on the front end.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

here's a 3ph unit from TSC...

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-carry-all

...
looks reasonable for the price ($170) and carrys 1000#.
If the forks are too long, cut them off..One trick is to use all the same sized skids. I use 40x48. Had 120 dropped off 20 year ago.store tuff on a skid, then place it onto another skid. that way btm one rots out but top one is perfect.Also seems easier to 'acquire' the skid (maybe that's a bifocal thing ??).
I hate CaCl filled tires,replaced 6 of them(12x26)...ain't fun the 1st time or the 6th !! No need to filled fronts,though I do add barbell weights as needed for hauling heavy logs or skids of pavers.

 

[Baymee]

When I picked up my tractor, I saw they had a Quick Hitch for sale (last one) and I figured, what the heck, so now I can create an easy to pick up ballast.

I want to have something to tow a trailer, but I don’t really have plans to use the back end stuff except to tow and ballast.

Let’s say I used forks to pallet stuff around, which my become a reality, doesn’t the front end get pretty light? Can you carry 1000# and still control the front end?

 

[GreensvilleJay]

1000# is real easy ,2000# steering gets lil light, 3000# no steering..(well rear brakes only......
it all depends on what tractor and weight on the rear end. you'll learn as you go...
I can put 200# up front to balance 3200# on the rear, good enough to drive on the paved roads,should be a bit more but I KNOW wherre the 4 ,50# weights are..other two went 'walkabout'.....

 

[Baymee]

Mine is a BX1870. I think it can only lift 900 lbs. Is yours similar to mine?

 

[RCW]

When I picked up my tractor, I saw they had a Quick Hitch for sale (last one) and I figured, what the heck, so now I can create an easy to pick up ballast.

Good choice, right there!