Been thinking about getting one of these but my question is how do you adjust the length of the link to get to align with the implement? With a manual link you just turn it until it aligns. With a hydraulic version how do you adjust it when the remote valve lever is in the tractor? My tractor is a cab model, and there ain't no well in hell my arms are long enough to adjust and attach at the same time!
Hydraulic Top Link Kit
- Thread starter imarobot
- Start date
On my open station(cab model would be similar)M series the valve is located right above the top link mount. So I just grab the lever where the cable attaches to and adjust it standing behind the left tire and hold/align the top link with my other arm.
Could you reach your lever through the rear window?
Could you reach your lever through the rear window?
NCL4701
Well-known member
Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
Sounds like you aren’t running a quick hitch. I run hydraulic top link and side link without a quick hitch on my L, but I don’t have a cab.
Kind of suspect most folks running hydraulic 3 point adjusters on cab tractors also run quick hitches if they hitch without a helper. Seems like it would be a LOT easier with a quick hitch if you can’t reach the valve while standing on the ground at the back of the tractor. Could be wrong. Interested to see what others are doing.
Kind of suspect most folks running hydraulic 3 point adjusters on cab tractors also run quick hitches if they hitch without a helper. Seems like it would be a LOT easier with a quick hitch if you can’t reach the valve while standing on the ground at the back of the tractor. Could be wrong. Interested to see what others are doing.
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Quick hitch. I'm a bit different having a BX, but similar principle. It makes hooking up SO much easier, no more kicking stuff into place...man I'm glad those days are over...
Easy answer- open the door on that side and reach in. You do have to estimate the length you will need at first, then make minor adjustments thereafter. Takes little time and much easier than using a turnbuckle
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I don't have a quick hitch, just the Pat's lower link quick connects. I didn't go with a quick hitch because it wouldn't work with some of my implements and also, I have a hard enough time hooking up the driveshaft to the pto without having more stuff in the way.
I can reach in through the door to access the lever, but I can't hold the top link into position at the same time, I'm not a monkey.
I can reach in through the door to access the lever, but I can't hold the top link into position at the same time, I'm not a monkey.
Yup, You do have to estimate the length at first, Usually a little longer than expected, rest the top link on the implement, then make final minor adjustments to fit the pinI don't have a quick hitch, just the Pat's lower link quick connects. I didn't go with a quick hitch because it wouldn't work with some of my implements and also, I have a hard enough time hooking up the driveshaft to the pto without having more stuff in the way.
I can reach in through the door to access the lever, but I can't hold the top link into position at the same time, I'm not a monkey.
DOESN'T WORK, SEE NEXT POST BELOW...
It's going to cost more (and I doubt there's a "kit") but buy the valve with "Float" for the top link and you can push or pull it out as you need. I don't know if it takes much effort to move the piston when it's in float. BUT make sure your toplink doesn't have a double acting pilot valve (locking / check valve). Which is what I like the most about my toplink!
Although, if you talk to the people who sells "kits"; I'm sure if you talk and explain to them, they might be able to swap the valve out to one that does float.
Although, if you talk to the people who sells "kits"; I'm sure if you talk and explain to them, they might be able to swap the valve out to one that does float.
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NCL4701
Well-known member
Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
I normally have my top link attached to the float valved remote. No check valves. From the standpoint of a bush hog pushing and pulling on it over undulating ground, it moves very easily in float. From the standpoint of an average strength 220lb, 58 yr old man pushing and pulling it, there’s a surprising amount of resistance.
When I first got it, I thought if I put the top link in float I could slide it to length manually to hook up. In my case, with my setup, not practical. If there’s no implement behind the tractor so I can stand directly behind it, I can pull the top link out and push it in when it’s in float, but it takes quite a bit of effort. Even in float you still have to push fluid through some pretty small orifices to move it. Standing off to one side in close quarters with lift arms, implement, and rear tire pretty well trapping you in one spot, I couldn’t find any way to get in a position to put any decent force on it. In a weightlifting comparison, trying to pull it out is basically a straight arm fly. There are some implements where you could stand on the implement to be in a position to pull/push on it with force, but some implements you can’t. Still, too much force needed to be practical to manually move the top link for alignment purposes.
If I estimate length needed and get it close enough to fine tune with a drift, float does allow fine tuning with a drift. I’ve done that a few times, but with my setup it’s usually easier to get it close enough to start the pin and then finish inserting the pin while manipulating the valve. (I realize OP can’t do that.)
That’s just one person’s experience with one tractor. YMMV…
When I first got it, I thought if I put the top link in float I could slide it to length manually to hook up. In my case, with my setup, not practical. If there’s no implement behind the tractor so I can stand directly behind it, I can pull the top link out and push it in when it’s in float, but it takes quite a bit of effort. Even in float you still have to push fluid through some pretty small orifices to move it. Standing off to one side in close quarters with lift arms, implement, and rear tire pretty well trapping you in one spot, I couldn’t find any way to get in a position to put any decent force on it. In a weightlifting comparison, trying to pull it out is basically a straight arm fly. There are some implements where you could stand on the implement to be in a position to pull/push on it with force, but some implements you can’t. Still, too much force needed to be practical to manually move the top link for alignment purposes.
If I estimate length needed and get it close enough to fine tune with a drift, float does allow fine tuning with a drift. I’ve done that a few times, but with my setup it’s usually easier to get it close enough to start the pin and then finish inserting the pin while manipulating the valve. (I realize OP can’t do that.)
That’s just one person’s experience with one tractor. YMMV…
I have a Fitrite and it works great when using a QH. When not, it’s on/off and trial and error.
Not convenient w/o QH in my opinion, but it’s a real game changer once connected. IMO the juice is worth the squeeze.
I have not taken the time to figure out a way to support the top link at install timing (like a bungee or strap or something) or made jigs…I suppose if setting on concrete or flat area, you could make a stick to length for each implement and just use that as a gauge that would be repeatable.
However at least with mine, there a bit of a reach and some yoga that is required to back to the link without getting off the machine…some hand controls at the rear would be nice?
The top link does go off and on really easy, so if you just have an implement that you don’t need the top link with it’s no hassle to swap the link out.
However, once you have one and use it, you’ll like it and learn to live with the hook up inconvenience. They are so handy to trim an implement Without getting off the machine.
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I was wondering if I could manage it this way, but then realized who am I kidding, my old rusted out body has a hard enough time turning around far enough to just open the window.
NCL4701
Well-known member
Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
@GrumpyFarmer made a really good point in post #12. “The top link does go off and on really easy, so if you just have an implement that you don’t need the top link with it’s no hassle to swap the link out.”
And in post #11. “… it’s a real game changer once connected. IMO the juice is worth the squeeze.”
Those may seem somewhat contradictory, but I fully agree with both statements.
For grading implements, back blade, box blade, etc.; in my case bush hog; 3 point moldboard plow; anything where you are adjusting the top link often or even occasionally while using the implement, it’s worth the cost and any additional trouble hooking it up. For “set and forget” type implements such as disc harrow, chipper, trailer mover, etc. there’s little to no advantage to a hydraulic top link. Swapping hydraulic for manual is one pin and two hydraulic quick connects. If it’s more challenging to hook to implements, I’d run it when it’s an advantage and hang it on the wall when it isn’t.
I run the original manual on my skidding winch because it’s longer than my hydraulic, the extra length is helpful with the geometry of that specific implement, and there is no reason to move it once it’s hooked up. Back blade, box blade, pine straw rake, and bush hog I always run hydraulic. Everything else I have (generator, chipper, stump grinder, trailer mover, etc.) I run whatever top link happens to be on it as it doesn’t matter either way.
And in post #11. “… it’s a real game changer once connected. IMO the juice is worth the squeeze.”
Those may seem somewhat contradictory, but I fully agree with both statements.
For grading implements, back blade, box blade, etc.; in my case bush hog; 3 point moldboard plow; anything where you are adjusting the top link often or even occasionally while using the implement, it’s worth the cost and any additional trouble hooking it up. For “set and forget” type implements such as disc harrow, chipper, trailer mover, etc. there’s little to no advantage to a hydraulic top link. Swapping hydraulic for manual is one pin and two hydraulic quick connects. If it’s more challenging to hook to implements, I’d run it when it’s an advantage and hang it on the wall when it isn’t.
I run the original manual on my skidding winch because it’s longer than my hydraulic, the extra length is helpful with the geometry of that specific implement, and there is no reason to move it once it’s hooked up. Back blade, box blade, pine straw rake, and bush hog I always run hydraulic. Everything else I have (generator, chipper, stump grinder, trailer mover, etc.) I run whatever top link happens to be on it as it doesn’t matter either way.
It's tight seals in the cylinder. I just installed a Top Link and am working on the draft, and had the plow cylinders rebuilt...they all are hard to move due to the seals. I'd guess 30lbs of force to overcome a small cylinder, 50 to 75 for larger, and I'm on a tiny BX so the hydraulics are small.