Hydraulic Lines Under Tractor

[mculik5]

I have a B2650. I bought a Lane Shark LS-3 and decided to add a motor spool valve (vs. plumbing it how they recommend, using the third-function and return to tank) so that I can run a hydraulic auger in both directions in the future.

As a result, I have three lines that need to crisscross under the tractor:

- The line from the loader valve PB to my motor spool valve
- The line from my motor spool valve to my tank manifold (I added a tank manifold so that I can easily add rear remotes in the future and install a hydraulic fluid temp gauge so I don't overheat the fluid running it through a motor with the B2650's small tank)
- The line from my motor spool valve PB to my third-function valve

I spent about an hour with a spare piece of hose trying to figure out how to run the lines up and over the transmission so as not to have to crisscross underneath, but with the number and diameter of lines, and all the moving levers connecting under the seat, there doesn't seem to be a good way to do it.

My concern with the lines crisscrossing underneath is that unless they are protected, they might catch on something on the ground as I'm driving and cause problems.

So my question is, have any of you had to crisscross lines underneath, and if so, how did you protect them?

Best idea I've come up with is to mount a round tube underneath that runs left to right and route the lines through that. The round tube wouldn't have any sharp edges to catch stuff and if I hit something rigid, the tractor would ride up onto that vs. impacting straight on and ripping the tube off (that's the thought at least). Only downside is this tube might be in the way if I ever have a need to run mid-PTO attachments and it reduces ground clearance.

Thoughts? Thanks.

 

[fried1765]

I have a B2650. I bought a Lane Shark LS-3 and decided to add a motor spool valve (vs. plumbing it how they recommend, using the third-function and return to tank) so that I can run a hydraulic auger in both directions in the future.

As a result, I have three lines that need to crisscross under the tractor:

- The line from the loader valve PB to my motor spool valve
- The line from my motor spool valve to my tank manifold (I added a tank manifold so that I can easily add rear remotes in the future and install a hydraulic fluid temp gauge so I don't overheat the fluid running it through a motor with the B2650's small tank)
- The line from my motor spool valve PB to my third-function valve

I spent about an hour with a spare piece of hose trying to figure out how to run the lines up and over the transmission so as not to have to crisscross underneath, but with the number and diameter of lines, and all the moving levers connecting under the seat, there doesn't seem to be a good way to do it.

My concern with the lines crisscrossing underneath is that unless they are protected, they might catch on something on the ground as I'm driving and cause problems.

So my question is, have any of you had to crisscross lines underneath, and if so, how did you protect them?

Best idea I've come up with is to mount a round tube underneath that runs left to right and route the lines through that. The round tube wouldn't have any sharp edges to catch stuff and if I hit something rigid, the tractor would ride up onto that vs. impacting straight on and ripping the tube off (that's the thought at least). Only downside is this tube might be in the way if I ever have a need to run mid-PTO attachments and it reduces ground clearance.

Thoughts? Thanks.

Life is all about compromises !!!!

 

[Russell King]

Can you use hardliners instead of hose and go around the back end or over the transmission?

Put new valve on the same side as existing valve?

 

[mikester]

My advice is if you see stuff hanging expect problems. Keep that in mind when routing lines. Use hose sleeve and lots of wide UV rated zip ties. Prefer tuck up and over instead of under and hanging.

 

[GeoHorn]

Don’t know about your model…. but mine has a number of empty, threaded bosses on the bottom of the transmission which appear all the world to be intended for skid plates. I’ve thought of building one for that location to protect the brake/clutch operating rods (except that I do not drive thru/over heavy brush, I primarily use the tractor for mowing.)
The loader uses several (threaded holes/bosses) to cross-over which are under the engine sump as well. If you have a loader you might consider running the lines between the loader under-structure and the engine/trans.

 

[fried1765]

Don’t know about your model…. but mine has a number of empty, threaded bosses on the bottom of the transmission which appear all the world to be intended for skid plates. I’ve thought of building one for that location to protect the brake/clutch operating rods (except that I do not drive thru/over heavy brush, I primarily use the tractor for mowing.)
The loader uses several (threaded holes/bosses) to cross-over which are under the engine sump as well. If you have a loader you might consider running the lines between the loader under-structure and the engine/trans.

"Specialtyrepairscustommods: in Bay Roberts Nfld. makes great skid plates.
Don't know if they make a skid plate for the OP's specific model.
It might be a good idea for the OP to call them at: 709-786-3348

 

[mculik5]

Thanks for all the comments. Work has been crazy this week, so I haven't had time to poke around more. I've seen those thread holes and other places to mount things and will likely be using those. Also ordered some high-end zip ties and zip tie mounting blocks, so once I'm done, nothing will be hanging.

 

[traumadoc2b]

I have a B2650. I bought a Lane Shark LS-3 and decided to add a motor spool valve

Did you ever finish your set up and get it working? I too have a B2650 and would like to get the 3' Lane Shark, but their website says it's NOT for the B series tractors. I'd like to think that's some liability BS and that the B2650 will run the Lane Shark just fine.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Did you ever finish your set up and get it working? I too have a B2650 and would like to get the 3' Lane Shark, but their website says it's NOT for the B series tractors. I'd like to think that's some liability BS and that the B2650 will run the Lane Shark just fine.

Not liability BS. Your tractor is out weighed and out hydrauliced.

Dan

 

[mculik5]

@traumadoc2b - The setup is not totally done, as the lines underneath the tractor are simply zip-tied up and out of the way, but yes...I have a motor spool valve on the tractor with a directional control switch and have used the Lane Shark a bunch.

In my non-expert opinion, I think the Lane Shark is fine on MY B2650 from a weight perspective. But I have the backhoe and loaded tires. I was concerned about it, too, and the first thing I did when I got it was put it up in the air in the most tippy position and then pull up/down on it to see how it felt. I remember thinking three things:

- "Yeah, I guess I understand what they're worried about. If I really jerk this thing around, I'm sure I could get the opposite rear tire in the air."
- "I hope I'm not bending my loader arms."
- "OK, I think I'll be fine. I'm never gonna use the mower in this position, and if I ever have a reason to, I could swing the backhoe to the opposite site."

As for performance, I start to agree with @TheOldHokie there, as the mower uses every bit of flow the tractor can muster. I'm planning to make a video about my setup and will include more details there, but when I put my optical tach on it, I believe I was getting about 900 RPMs. I did the hydraulic math and believe I calculated about 7HP. That's not much for a brush mower.

It tends to work best on woody material that's 3/4" - 1" thick. It doesn't have the blade speed for soft stuff (because of the low flow), and doesn't have the power for thicker stuff (although you can hack through 3" + if you position it right and go SLOW). The RPMs drop pretty quickly as you drive into brush, so you kind of have to take a bite, let it speed back up, take a bite... I've also noticed that the RPMs drop when the loader is way up in the air, I think just from the need to pump the oil so high.

I bought mine to trim brush back from my fence line, and for that (and the kind of brush I have) it's wonderful. Probably saves me 3 hours and scratched up arms each time I trim, and I trim 3-4 times/year. It's also been handy for clearing brush in the woods (as long as you're not expecting it to work like a forestry mulcher on a track loader).

One tip... Although they look absurd on such a small tractor, I found that going to 1/2" lines resulted in about a 10% boost in flow at the implement. My basis for saying this is that I tried my hydraulic post hole digger first on the 3/8" the third function and then on the 1/2" motor spool valve. On the third function, it turned 61 RPMS and on the motor spool valve it turned 67 RPMs = +6 RPMs = ~10% flow improvement.