Hydraulic leak on Flail Mower

[imarobot]

No more replies so I may have asked to many uneducated questions, sorry, but hoping I can get some more help with the leak down.
I have installed restrictors which have solved the quick, jerky problem, but still need to fix the leak down problem. Is the Summit Dual Operated Pilot Valve what I need or is there a better option?

 

[Russell King]

To be able to adjust and then lock the cylinder in position you need to use a double pilot operated check valve (DPOCV) on each cylinder. Here is an example of the valve type.

Double Pilot Operated Hydraulic Check Valve, #6 SAE Ports, 11 GPM

Double Pilot Operated Hydraulic Check Valve, #6 SAE Ports, 11 GPM Free Shipping

summit-hydraulics.com

I believe that if you want to mount it to the cylinder that you can get a kit from FitRite Hydraulics

Fit Rite Hydraulics - fitritehydraulics.com

Manufacturers of tractor 3 point hitch top and tilt hydraulic kits, hydraulic top links and hydraulic side links.

www.fitritehydraulics.com

See this thread for more information on how one person resolved their issue.

Hydraulic Question

I bought a tilt cylinder from FitRite and it's a work of art! However, in order to save a few bucks (a textbook example of false economy...) I ordered it without the check valve. I now regret that decision and would like to add the check valve assembly. Can a check valve assembly be ordered...

www.orangetractortalks.com

If you adjust the cylinder and remove the hoses it will stay locked in position but you can’t adjust on the fly. Installing the DPOCV allows movement when you operate the control valve either direction but no leak down.

 

[Russell King]

Thinking about this more, you could just close both restrictor valves to lock it in place, open them to adjust, repeat as required but that would be tedious.

 

[TheOldHokie]

No more replies so I may have asked to many uneducated questions, sorry, but hoping I can get some more help with the leak down.
I have installed restrictors which have solved the quick, jerky problem, but still need to fix the leak down problem. Is the Summit Dual Operated Pilot Valve what I need or is there a better option?

That DPOCV will do what you want but there are nuch cheaper options.

Find a good mounting location on the frame of the mower. Then run two short hoses. From C1 and C2 to the cylinder you want to lock. Connect the tractor side hoses to V1 and V2.

That mower will hold for weeks on end.

Dan

 

[imarobot]

That DPOCV will do what you want but there are nuch cheaper options.

Find a good mounting location on the frame of the mower. Then run two short hoses. From C1 and C2 to the cylinder you want to lock. Connect the tractor side hoses to V1 and V2.

That mower will hold for weeks on end.

Dan

I know I'm stupid, but what is C1, C2,V1 and V2?
Closing the restrictor valve or disconnecting hoses or whatever OldHokie's recommendation is I think a fixed solution and some others, (sorry I don't understand) are, but I want to be able to control the tilt on the fly being as my field/pond angles change as I mow and want to change the tilt as required.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I know I'm stupid, but what is C1, C2,V1 and V2?
Closing the restrictor valve or disconnecting hoses or whatever OldHokie's recommendation is I think a fixed solution and some others, (sorry I don't understand) are, but I want to be able to control the tilt on the fly being as my field/pond angles change as I mow and want to change the tilt as required.

Thats what the DPOCV does all automagically. I assume your restrictors are orifice fittings installed on the hoses.

The DPOCV you are looking at has 4 ports.klabeled C1, C2, V1, and V2. Just connect the hoses as I descrubed

 

[imarobot]

Thats what the DPOCV does all automagically. I assume your restrictors are orifice fittings installed on the hoses.

View attachment 164727

The DPOCV you are looking at has 4 ports.klabeled C1, C2, V1, and V2. Just connect the hoses as I descrubed

View attachment 164728 View attachment 164729

Thank you.
Yes, my restrictors are mounted on the hoses at the end at connections to the rear remotes.

 

[McMXi]

I'm catching up on this thread, particularly since I've been running a Del Morino Centurion Super for the last four summers. Yes, the cutting head will "droop" over time if it's raised but who cares. It makes no difference to how you use the flail. I used to run the head in float mode on the ground until I started running the flail off the Summit Hydraulics multiplier, but both methods work well, and in real-world use the head is constantly being adjusted. With the multiplier handling the cutting head angle and offset, I can float the top cylinder or the side cylinder, but either way, I have a lot of adjustment available to me.

I bought restrictors from @Kennyd4110 earlier in the year and would still like to open up the orifice a bit to speed up movement of the cutting head. The caveat is that this winter I'll be using two circuits via the Scorpion control grip to rotate the snow blower chute and change the deflector angle. I want to see how that goes before drilling out the orifices. I might end up buying another set for summer use and keeping the ones I have for winter use. I'll know more shortly as snow is starting to become a thing here.

 

[imarobot]

I would like to keep the mower from drooping down.
As another option rather than using DOPV's I may try using the adjustment on the restrictor valve first.
I could just close the valve from the back window when I have the mower in the position I want it in.
I like having the adjustability of the variable valves. Having a friend give them to me didn't hurt any either.

 

[McMXi]

I would like to keep the mower from drooping down.

Why? I'm not following how this is an issue when you're actually using the flail. As I said above, before adding additional hydraulics, I used to float the cutting head (rotation) which is kind of the ultimate droop possible.

 

[imarobot]

Why? I'm not following how this is an issue when you're actually using the flail. As I said above, before adding additional hydraulics, I used to float the cutting head (rotation) which is kind of the ultimate droop possible.

Very good question.
Well, the simple answer is because that's me. If the mower is supposed to stay in the position I put it in, then it should stay there. Having an engineering/mechanical mind I'm always looking to make things work as they should or improve the way they work.
Plus, I'm learning more about hydraulic valves and stuff and like to see what I've learned be put into practical use.
Other than the scary thoughts that go on in my mind I have also had to re-level the mower when cutting fields. When I lift it to turn sharply or for any other reason it starts to drop little by little and I have to level it off again. If I don't then eventually one end is on the ground more than the opposite end. Same issue with it in the vertical position.
I just want it to stay where I put it, damn it!

 

[TheOldHokie]

I just want it to stay where I put it, damn it!

What a novel idea

Dan

 

[McMXi]

I have also had to re-level the mower when cutting fields.

Your fields must be golf green flat then. I make pocket money ($600 for 3 hours of easy work) in the summer months running the flail so I never know the terrain that I'm working with. Typically I offset the flail head as far out to the right as possible to limit running over stuff before cutting it, and the rear tires and cutting head roller are frequently in different planes. What I pain in the arse to have to make constant adjustments to the cutting head to have it follow the terrain, which you'd have to do if the cutting head isn't floating.

But I'll follow along and see where you end up with this project. I upgraded the front guards on my flail since this was an area that proved to be problematic for me when I cut at properties that haven't been taken care of for years. It's very easy to run over a log or similar that can destroy the rod that the guards swing on as it's ejected from the cutting head. That's no longer an issue for me.

 

[imarobot]

Yes, my fields are mostly flat. I also run it fully shifted out just so I don't have to run over the uncut grass with the tractor.
Not as big in the pain in the arse as your issue but still a pain to have to keep adjusting it.