how do you split a tractor
- Thread starter mike the tractor splitor
- Start date
I split my L175 by pulling the bolts out all the way and putting them all back in a full rotation. This will keep the tractor from hitting the floor when you try to split it. I also blocked mine so it wouldn't fall. Jacking it right below the bell housing made a clean split. I then took the bolts the rest of the way out and pulled the halves apart. There is no gasket so it should come apart pretty easy. The trany is a bit harder and required me to pull it with come alongs.
The hardest part is doing it safely which requires space and tools some people don't have. However if you're of a mechanical mind and think about things carefully it just requires work.
I've got a thread detailing how I did my L175 here. It covers the clutch, reverse gear, removal of the head, and reassembly of the halves. Eventually it will cover a full cylinder and bottom end job plus full reassembly but that's in the making.
There are a hundred different ways to support the ends but from doing this I can tell you the front end is the hardest. The rear can be done fairly easy like I did up there. It was mobile, stable and relatively easy to move. The trick is to judge your weights and leverage correctly so it doesn't tip over easily. The front wanted to rotate on the center pivot for the front axle when set down on the jack stand. To fix that I had to support the front bumper with jack stands and then place a jack stand in front of the oil pan as seen at the end of post #15. I couldn't go behind it because what was behind it was the part I had to remove (the starter casting). The problem was that gave it enough leverage that it wanted to tip easily so I filled a 5 gallon bucket with water and set it the battery pan. Not the greatest idea but it worked.
Hope that gives you an idea of what you're looking at.
I've got a thread detailing how I did my L175 here. It covers the clutch, reverse gear, removal of the head, and reassembly of the halves. Eventually it will cover a full cylinder and bottom end job plus full reassembly but that's in the making.
There are a hundred different ways to support the ends but from doing this I can tell you the front end is the hardest. The rear can be done fairly easy like I did up there. It was mobile, stable and relatively easy to move. The trick is to judge your weights and leverage correctly so it doesn't tip over easily. The front wanted to rotate on the center pivot for the front axle when set down on the jack stand. To fix that I had to support the front bumper with jack stands and then place a jack stand in front of the oil pan as seen at the end of post #15. I couldn't go behind it because what was behind it was the part I had to remove (the starter casting). The problem was that gave it enough leverage that it wanted to tip easily so I filled a 5 gallon bucket with water and set it the battery pan. Not the greatest idea but it worked.
Hope that gives you an idea of what you're looking at.
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When I used to split an early farmall cub I would cut a wedge (large doorstop) and put it on both sides of the axle pivot and secure them to the axle tube with a worm clamp. when tapped in tight it wouldn't twist around. I haven't looked yet to see if some variation of this would work as I haven't yet needed to split a kubota myself.
That's a good one! I forgot... My L175 has just a little more than 1 inch of travel on either side of the axel. I was able to lay a piece of rough-cut panel board from my chicken coop on either side to keep it from flopping over. It worked great.