Finished my Woods RM59-1 rehab project. On to my next project. Homemade Cultipacker! I posted a drawing of my cultipacker design. Probably will make some changes but here’s my first drawing of my design.
Homemade Cultipacker
- Thread starter gbaker53
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North Idaho Wolfman
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L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Major flaw in your design, flipping that over will not make it towable.
Make a three point frame to lift it, you'll be much better off.
Make a three point frame to lift it, you'll be much better off.
I have been working on it for a few days now and need to do an update. What I decided was to try to make it so I can tow it to the woods and then flip it over to use the cultipacker. I made it so I could just attach it to my tractor, or something else, i. e., ATV or Side x Side. The
first picture is the wheel assembly, with a mounted bearing which will have an axle though it and the packer will be attached to one on each end. The next picture shows the wheel axle on the assembly, there are two wheel assemblies, one on each side of the towing tongue. I had several of the golf cart shipping wheels that I had gotten from a local dealer, for FREE! So I purchased a set of golf cart hubs and mounted them on my axles. The
Cultipacker is a 6 inch drain pipe, that I purchased from a local drain installation company for $25 for 10 feet of pipe. The picture shows how I poured the concrete into the pipe by strapping it to a metal pole holding up my shop lean to. I used two metal drain caps to make the ends of my drain pipe to hold the axle. The caps are the exact same diameter as the pipe which made a very tight fit and ensured that the axle would be centered, now since the drain caps have a PVC connection so they can be glued to PVC drain pipe, I cut a section of PVC pipe to one of the caps then installed the one cap with the PVC pipe in the drain pipe. After that, I strapped it to the pole. Then I poured the concrete into the drain pipe making sure not to get it into the PVC pipe, once I had the pipe filled I glued the other PVC connection with the metal cap into place. I had previously drilled holes in each metal drain cap so I could run the axle through it and then thought the PVC pipe to the other metal cap. Now I have my cultipacker ready to be assembled with the wheel assembly. But I wanted to make sure the concrete setup properly so I left it strapped to the pole for a week. I posted a picture of the caps I used. I just ran out and took pictures of the cultivator that I am going to use the basic same design for my cultipacker.
first picture is the wheel assembly, with a mounted bearing which will have an axle though it and the packer will be attached to one on each end. The next picture shows the wheel axle on the assembly, there are two wheel assemblies, one on each side of the towing tongue. I had several of the golf cart shipping wheels that I had gotten from a local dealer, for FREE! So I purchased a set of golf cart hubs and mounted them on my axles. The
Cultipacker is a 6 inch drain pipe, that I purchased from a local drain installation company for $25 for 10 feet of pipe. The picture shows how I poured the concrete into the pipe by strapping it to a metal pole holding up my shop lean to. I used two metal drain caps to make the ends of my drain pipe to hold the axle. The caps are the exact same diameter as the pipe which made a very tight fit and ensured that the axle would be centered, now since the drain caps have a PVC connection so they can be glued to PVC drain pipe, I cut a section of PVC pipe to one of the caps then installed the one cap with the PVC pipe in the drain pipe. After that, I strapped it to the pole. Then I poured the concrete into the drain pipe making sure not to get it into the PVC pipe, once I had the pipe filled I glued the other PVC connection with the metal cap into place. I had previously drilled holes in each metal drain cap so I could run the axle through it and then thought the PVC pipe to the other metal cap. Now I have my cultipacker ready to be assembled with the wheel assembly. But I wanted to make sure the concrete setup properly so I left it strapped to the pole for a week. I posted a picture of the caps I used. I just ran out and took pictures of the cultivator that I am going to use the basic same design for my cultipacker.
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North Idaho Wolfman
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Lifetime Member
Equipment
L3450DT-GST, Woods FEL, B7100 HSD, FEL, 60" SB, 743 Bobcat with V2203, and more
Again it will do what you want it to do.
It's just going to dig the side frames into the ground.
You can not have a pivoting tow bar.
Also, If your "packer" is of any weight it's going to bend the pipe axles in a split second.
Hollow pipe can not support torque like that.
It's just going to dig the side frames into the ground.
You can not have a pivoting tow bar.
Also, If your "packer" is of any weight it's going to bend the pipe axles in a split second.
Hollow pipe can not support torque like that.
nice and congrat's. we have a small one in the back of a barn. I put a tape to it and approximately:
- 6' long by 10" round galvanized metal culvert filled with concrete
- frame looks to be 2 1/2" angle @ 1/4" thick.
- no wheels for transport so always on the ground
- rotation shaft connects to frame through pillow block bearings and shaft looks to be 2"
- hitch is single tow bar to tractor
- it was homemade by someone and well used. looks to have had a hard life / well used but still fully functional I would guess.
don't know how old it is but probably 60 y.o. I don't ever remember it being used on our farm. just taking up space and would give it to you for free if you be closer but probably weighs 600 pounds so a bit too much to drop in the post.
love to see homemade stuff.
- 6' long by 10" round galvanized metal culvert filled with concrete
- frame looks to be 2 1/2" angle @ 1/4" thick.
- no wheels for transport so always on the ground
- rotation shaft connects to frame through pillow block bearings and shaft looks to be 2"
- hitch is single tow bar to tractor
- it was homemade by someone and well used. looks to have had a hard life / well used but still fully functional I would guess.
don't know how old it is but probably 60 y.o. I don't ever remember it being used on our farm. just taking up space and would give it to you for free if you be closer but probably weighs 600 pounds so a bit too much to drop in the post.
love to see homemade stuff.
FWIW packers are made up of LOT of 'discs or wheels' that allow it to corner real good. Had a Big John roller ( 2.5 x 4' wide and it didn't like any turns less than 12' arc.
Found old packer in local scrapyard 15 years ago, amazing what others throw out.
Found old packer in local scrapyard 15 years ago, amazing what others throw out.
I really looked at doing it with a 3 point hitch but decided to go with a tongue design instead!
Why? I have an ATV and a side x side UTV, if I did the 3 point design, I couldn’t use either of them, I would have to always use the tractor, which I probably would use anyway but then if I decide to sell it, it would have to be a tractor owner who would have the 3 point hitch system. That eliminates 2/3 of my buyers if I decide to sell it!
Just my opinion!
I don’t agree with it NOT BEING TOWABLE! I live on a little over 2 acres, that’s in the middle of a farm, that my son in law owns. He owns several 1000 acres and the section that I live on is over 500 acres. There is a very active creek that runs through the middle of it with probably 50 to 75 acres of woods on both sides. I have two food plots in the woods and so I am building the cultipacker to use when I seed them. I have an old cultivator that I purchased last year, that was built with the same towable system that I am using to make my cultipacker, and I would say that it is probably older than I am, 72, and it has been doing a great job ALL THESE YEARS, I had to replace the wheels and unfreeze the old hubs because it had not been used for over a decade,
But after a little TLC it works great!
I have always been one that doesn’t throw anything away that I believe could be used for something in the future! Now some say that it’s hoarding but I don’t think of it that way because it’s not just junk stuffed into every corner of your home. I keep it in my 50’ x 30’ shop. I would have loved to be able to afford to purchase a new cultipacker $2500+ or even the metal wheels to make my own but they are $50 including shipping EACH!
I have to agree with you on the pivoting tow bar. I had realized that when I was trying it and realized how easily it would flip if it didn’t have the pivot! Like the old implement that I have.
So tomorrow when I get back to working on it. I will fix it so that it doesn’t have a pivot anymore.
I am not sure what I will have to do to fix the pivot issue but I may have to extend the bracket at the end where the pivot is with a metal plate and then attach it to the wheel assembly, I did a little drawing and I will post it as to how I think I can do it and I hope it works!
As for the axle, I don’t think it’s going to be an issue but if it does I will get a solid steel rod and tap the threads on it that I need. That’s why I did the hollow channel through the drain pipe and not let concrete get into the PVC pipe so if I have to do some maintenance I would not have to fight with the concrete. The weight of the pipe with the concrete is probably between 175 and 200 lbs, hopefully it won’t be any problem.
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hmm, I was thinking it was 16" pipe but it looks smaller ,like 6" ? Heck they all look the same.
wondering is it heavy enough for the job ?
I do like the bodging and 'repurposing of parts' !
Once ( IF ! ) the weather warms up, I have 2 trailers to build using the old but useful tires/rims from my BX23S.
wondering is it heavy enough for the job ?
I do like the bodging and 'repurposing of parts' !
Once ( IF ! ) the weather warms up, I have 2 trailers to build using the old but useful tires/rims from my BX23S.
After reading the helpful comments, I decided to rethink my approach and so I decided to do a modification to my current approach. If you haven’t already noticed, I am a visual learner. Any time I do a project, I always draw up my ideas and then put it into practice! It’s usually very easy for me to draw something than just try it without thinking it through by drawing it out. Most of the time it’s a good way for me to try to eliminate any problems but I don’t always get it right the first time around! So here is my drawing to modify the cultipacker.
I enjoy making stuff from old repurposed stuff!
It’s probably more about the saving than anything else!
Jay, I wish I could have located a size or two bigger pipe but I was messaging everyone on Marketplace to try to get a section of pipe for a reasonable price. I finally found a 10’ section for $25.
I enjoy making stuff from old repurposed stuff!
It’s probably more about the saving than anything else!
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FWIW, when you build the 2nd one, consider installing 'positioning supports' for the axle inside the pipe. They'll help keep the axle centered ALL the way along the pipe. Obviously they need to have big holes to allow the concrete to flow through.
I know this is done for wide conveyor rollers.
I know this is done for wide conveyor rollers.
Hey Jay, I have made a couple of mods to it so far! I did add a cross support and two small braces to the wheel assembly from the cross brace, that’s helped a good bit with the stability of the cultipacker. I am going to make a few mods today, take the pivoting out of the tongue and make it stationary and some more bracing to make it more rigid, which I believe will make it much easier to change from towing to cultipacker mode. I also think I am going to need more weight on it so I plan to see how to add additional weight without compromising my ability to flip it over from towing to cultipacker modes! Thanks for your input.