Help With ROPS Light Switch

[Trustable]

Hi all,

I have begun to start the process of mounting some lights to my ROPS so I will able to see behind me next winter when snowblowing instead of relying on the hazard lights. I cut and drilled some angle iron yesterday and have most of the hardware to mount them. I think I know what lights I’m gonna get - diode dynamics ss3 or ss2.

i apologize if this has already been asked but I have been looking on the forum and haven’t been able to find an answer, is there a weatherproof switch that is recommended? Most of the setups I’ve seen have cabs so the switches used in those probably wouldn’t be a good idea with my setup being exposed to snow and ice. My current thought is to buy a small sealed plastic box and put the switch in there with just the top exposed or just have it inside the box and have to open it to turn them on and off. Then seal the wire entrance into the box with silicone. When I go to look online for weatherproof switches it just gives me regular automotive style switches with the rubber sides, but I don’t know how that would last even with a homemade enclosure.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

Hi all,

I have begun to start the process of mounting some lights to my ROPS so I will able to see behind me next winter when snowblowing instead of relying on the hazard lights. I cut and drilled some angle iron yesterday and have most of the hardware to mount them. I think I know what lights I’m gonna get - diode dynamics ss3 or ss2.

i apologize if this has already been asked but I have been looking on the forum and haven’t been able to find an answer, is there a weatherproof switch that is recommended? Most of the setups I’ve seen have cabs so the switches used in those probably wouldn’t be a good idea with my setup being exposed to snow and ice. My current thought is to buy a small sealed plastic box and put the switch in there with just the top exposed or just have it inside the box and have to open it to turn them on and off. Then seal the wire entrance into the box with silicone. When I go to look online for weatherproof switches it just gives me regular automotive style switches with the rubber sides, but I don’t know how that would last even with a homemade enclosure.

I would try a Marine Retailer…..Something like Hodges Marine (or someone similar).

They should be able to supply “Marine Grade” switchs for “wet weather” operation.


Take lots of pics, and post them…………We like seeing those upgrades….

 

[JasonW]

https://www.otrattw.net/

I’ve used these for years and have yet to replace one. Tractors and side by sides.
I have them mounted on the dash but they could be put anywhere.

If you make a waterproof enclosure for them be sure it’s 100 percent tight or it will just hold water/condensation.

 

[JasonW]

Also for the lights on the tractor I have them set up with a DPDT switch. So I can have them as the “low beam” is the front lights and “high beam” is front and rear lights. Just to save space for other switches.

 

[John T]

My current thought is to buy a small sealed plastic box and put the switch in there with just the top exposed or just have it inside the box and have to open it to turn them on and off. Then seal the wire entrance into the box with silicone. When I go to look online for weatherproof switches it just gives me regular automotive style switches with the rubber sides, but I don’t know how that would last even with a homemade enclosure.

I would mount it inside the cup holder.... on the flat spot.

it's a waterproof switch ...prolly be fine. they are cheap... buy a spare...

20 AMP @ 12 Volt On/Off S.P.S.T. Rocker Switches

20 AMP @ 12 Volt On/Off S.P.S.T. Rocker Switches

www.wiringdepot.com

 

[6feettogo]

I would also suggest adding a relay to feed that switch that would be tied to the ignition switch that would have to be on in order for the lights to be on.

 

[Bee-Positive]

Look for IP65/IP66 ratings or better.

 

[Trustable]

Thanks all!

I am planning on tying into the work light connector/pigtail under the left rear fender. As I understand those are only powered when the key is on. So essentially it would go from key - fuse panel - left rear fender wire - switch - worklights? I don’t think I would need a relay as the lights I am looking at are under 3.2 amps total. Maybe I am wrong there?

 

[John T]

I don’t think I would need a relay as the lights I am looking at are under 3.2 amps total. Maybe I am wrong there?

I agree.
Relay is not needed.
I would just run an inline fuse to the rocker switch.


Relays are mainly used to provide full 12v power to high amp accessories... like a winch or a high amp light(s)

 

[Trustable]

I agree.
Relay is not needed.
I would just run an inline fuse to the rocker switch.


Relays are mainly used to provide full 12v power to high amp accessories... like a winch or a high amp light(s)

Are you saying I should add an additional fuse after the built in work light fuse? As I understand that fuse only feeds that wire under the fender I’ll be tapping into.

I’m brand new to dc wiring, my electrical experience goes as far as wiring switches, outlets, and a couple plugs, not anything more than that.

 

[lynnmor]

I bought a box, switches and connections from McMaster-Carr, I was able to mount everything without drilling.

 

[Trustable]

I bought a box, switches and connections from McMaster-Carr, I was able to mount everything without drilling.

View attachment 175118

That looks great! Do you have that box attached with magnets?

 

[lynnmor]

That looks great! Do you have that box attached with magnets?

There is a hole in the fender so I drilled the bottom of the box and ran a bolt thru. I have a B2601 so your installation may be different. My auxiliary wire is on the right side and I simply connected to it.

 

[BX23S-1]

I`ve used these on all my outdoor equipment. Haven`t had to replace any in the last 10 years, so they seem to have a good track record, with me. Not being sure what you want your switch to look like, but there are a gazillion options out there.

https://www.amazon.com/Rocker-Switch-Waterproof-Lighted-Automotive/dp/B0D91HFL3R?crid=1CJLKY0HIJYJX&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.I1CugrFw8p-JzumAyyhdWZZLtMCoND98IKWmxFsEDXD5STq2zHSNkHhbQ9oQyUh7cEpJ8mN-hvqUmfp8KzBFGHCY-YW9Xr1NSL5ircMMSBlfK6B4103X3Op7xjX0oNQv32zY_sPy9wOjW8WPW6yIPrwqneniTdlmi7hRvv9HtjESaf27Egi3jsv0Gj6eX5nAYvb1e8uThEHuq6TK92LkUouccsQxOvBLu73qu35r6bU.841qBrdAeoO8YMLgMJJYPSRVSLPRAGtUjrTLGgBVqUo&dib_tag=se&keywords=water%2Bproof%2B12%2Bvolt%2Bswitches&qid=1779979275&sprefix=water%2Bproof%2B12%2Bvolt%2Bswitches%2Caps%2C126&sr=8-5&th=1

 

[Trustable]

Sorry for another question, but can I use a 24v DC switch since this is a 12v DC circuit or can I use a switch only rated for AC? Here is some I was looking at:

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

For example, Mcmaster-carr does not have 12v DC toggle switches, or regular buttons. I tried searching online but most of what I'm seeing is people asking it the other way around, where the switch is rated less than the circuit. I may be massively overthinking this, but the last thing I want is a fire from me not understanding.

 

[lynnmor]

The 24v DC is the maximum voltage, anything under that is fine. You need to look at the AMP rating and compare that to the load you will be using.

 

[lynnmor]

Here is what I used to install lights, some of the links may be obsolete:

Below are the products I used, some of it can be bought in small quantities. The electrical box will need some machining, and the stainless steel bars will need to be cut, drilled and tapped as required. The lights are mounted with magnets, the electrical box with one low head 1/4" screw, and the ROPS is sprayed with non-skid paint in the mounting area. I used bullet connectors on the lights to save space in the sleeving with no need to go larger. If I did it again, I would simply solder and heat shrink, if a lamp needs replaced in the future it might be just as easy to redo the soldering. I plugged into the cigarette lighter socket wiring and made a tee to connect the socket and lamps, wiring can be returned to factory in a minute. The lamps draw under 8 amps and the lighter circuit is fused at 10 amps, if there is ever a problem I will connect the rear lamps the work light circuit that is nearby.


3 sets, need 10 magnets total:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HCLX1S6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

Light set:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XW8WK6Q?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

Headlight upgrade:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/164843410035

Grommets (need 4):
https://www.mcmaster.com/9307K38/

Grommets, (need 2):
https://www.mcmaster.com/9600K28/

Electrical box (would buy a bit larger, it is tight):
https://www.mcmaster.com/7301K112/

Switches (2):
https://www.mcmaster.com/7343K711/

Switch cover (2):
https://www.mcmaster.com/70205K4/

Cable Ties:
https://www.mcmaster.com/7130K55/

Quick Disconnect, female, only need 1:
https://www.mcmaster.com/7060K29/

Quick Disconnect, male, only need 1:
https://www.mcmaster.com/7060K88/

Assorted .157” bullet connectors and terminals as required. Light kit has some .250” flat connectors. I use No-Ox on all connections. Heat shrink tubing and some electrical tape as required.

Sleeving, need about 10 feet:
https://www.mcmaster.com/7840K72-7840K12/

Stainless steel to make mounting bars, need 2:
https://www.mcmaster.com/9084K2-9084K209/

Stainless steel washers, need a total of 20:
https://www.mcmaster.com/90107A029/

Non-Skid clear spray paint, I used Rust-Oleum, can't find any in stock, here is an example:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Krylon-K03400000-11-oz-Non-Skid-Coating-Spray-Clear/19535863

 

[Trustable]

The 24v DC is the maximum voltage, anything under that is fine. You need to look at the AMP rating and compare that to the load you will be using.

Okay thank you! And im assuming the answer is yes, but is 10amp @ 24v DC the same as 10amp @ 12v DC then? trying to make sure im understanding this.

Im planning to tap into the worklight wire under the fender and the total amps of the lights (at least what im looking at now) are 2.25 amps. I want to keep the switch at 10 amps to ensure it matches the fuse and I can add more lights if I need.

Also, thank you for all those links, that was extremely helpful!!

 

[lynnmor]

For your purposes, 10 amps is 10 amps. You can always add an inline fuse for the lighting system if you want to use lower amperage wiring and devices. Do check the figures from the manufacturer, many imported products aren't even close to what they say.

 

[Trustable]

For your purposes, 10 amps is 10 amps. You can always add an inline fuse for the lighting system if you want to use lower amperage wiring and devices. Do check the figures from the manufacturer, many imported products aren't even close to what they say.

Thank you I appreciate it! I’m planning on using diode dynamics and the lights are made in house there. Looking at either SSC2 or SS3. Since it’s mostly for snowblowing I figure I just need to see a hundred or so feet behind me, so I’m thinking of going with the yellow fog pattern. I talked