Hauling an L245dt w FEL & implement

L245dtRCA

New member

Equipment
L245dt, box scraper, 6 way blade, FEL, 4'Howse rotary mower
Jul 18, 2018
13
0
1
Molalla, Oregon
My tractor has been parked at a friends house now for almost a year...covered but still...hasn't been started. At issue is I'm currently "between farms". (no rural property of my own).

I paid @$500 to get it moved last year, but I want to pour any further $ in to being able to haul it myself. I need some idea of what to look for in a trailer. I have an old F250 that will pull...anything. Just need to acquire a flatbed. Also, I have scads of fabric tie down straps, but only one chain and tightener. How long the trailer? Does it need 2 axles? Some sort of weight capacity. Do I need a brake set up for the tractor?

I'm sure there are salesmen who can help with this, but...I'd prefer to go in with some parameters already worked out. of course a used trailer would be ideal for this ... nearly centenarian beauty.
 

Russell King

Well-known member

Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
4,667
1,003
113
Austin, Texas
I highly recommend tandem axle trailer simply for the safety in case of a flat.

Also I recommend that at least one of the axles has a brake system and you install a brake controller on the trailer or truck.

14 foot minimum but 16 probably cheaper and more available.

If only to move the tractor occasionally then rental is probably best.

Buy chain and ratchet binders
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

Vigo

Well-known member

Equipment
B6100, B8200
Jan 9, 2022
595
339
63
San Antonio Texas
I agree to rent the trailer in this case, because it will save you having to 'train up' on trailer issues/specs at any particular speed. Just rent a tandem axle long enough to fit the tractor and you'll be fine.

But i would go ahead and buy yourself some more chain and binders because they are basically 'last forever' items that never really become useless except under EXTREME misuse/mistreatment. Just put some grease on the binder threads if they're threaded. Straps are mostly fine but tractors have a lot of sharp edges which straps don't like, and chains don't care! It just buys you more margin for error vs straps. Ultimate strength is also higher but that doesn't really matter in the majority of cases when you're talking about a 16-18' tandem axle behind a 3/4 ton. Most of your 2" straps will do way more than what you should be towing with that size of equipment anyway, but they are more sensitive to being used correctly, than chains.

One thing about tying down something with an FEL.. hydraulics do leak internally and allow parts to shift over time, especially under weight or tension. So be careful about using something like the FEL bucket or loader arms as a tie-down point because the chain tension can 'go away' as the hydraulics leak internally, leaving your chains loose. It would be better to go to the axles or frame. Also beware of bending tie rods if you go to the front axle.

As far as trailer brakes, a rented trailer may or may not have them, and you can be picky about that if you want to. You do need a trailer brake controller on your vehicle unless you rent a trailer with surge brakes (hydraulic brakes, need no wiring, vs most trailers having electric brakes and typically need the tow vehicle to have a 7-pin connector and brake controller). CAN you tow that without brakes? Yes. But whether you should is something else.. big topic, very sensitive.

If you have never towed anything heavy before (i cant tell from your post) I would borrow a friend who has for the trip, even just to ride along. In general being paranoid about everything and avoiding the temptation to go fast, will get you there in one piece almost regardless of the setup. An abundance of caution and a dearth of speed can make up for a lot of lack of experience or equipment.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user