Oil change: Orange triangular right side panel comes off with 3 12mm bolts to access the oil filter. I would have hated not to have my vice grip oil filter pliers for removing the filter.
Hydraulic/transmission fluid. Back panel comes off with 4 14mm? Bolts. drain plug is at the very bottom on the horizontally mounted strainer housing. Dipstick is under the seat. The strainer housing comes off with 4 10mm bolts. The metal donut comes out with a small orange harbor freight 90 degree pick. There is space between the strainer and the donut to gently insert it from different angles and then pulling up. It may take 2-3 minutes before the donut comes out as it has 2 rubber O-rings. Remember to also clean the inside of the housing.
Front axle: Pull 2 12mm? drain plugs, 1 rubber dipstick cap, 2 rubber vent plugs. it takes forever to empty and then to fill the axle. Put a tray under it. The funnel will surely overflow when refilling. It is difficult to clean around the rubber drain plugs. Nothing much comes out before you pull those. My old oil was NASTY; probably factory original. The dipstick installs at an angle towards the center of the tractor. It is a nightmare to get the fluid level correct. The front axle is the worst task.
Coolant: Remove the right triangular panel with 3 12mm bolts. There are 2 drains that have to be open at the same time: small drain pipe at center bottom of radiator (side panel off) and bottom right center of engine 14mm? bolt. Also overflow tank empties by pulling bottom small hose by the removed side panel. The OEM Kubota coolant cost about the same shipped as my local auto supply store wanted for a gallon of the generic stuff so there is no reason to endless research the chemistry but remember to flush with distilled water before potentially switching back to the OEM coolant.
Deck: you need a shallow 1qt plus container for the oil. Good luck finding one. It will make a mess. Power wash bottom of deck. Let dry. Paint used motor oil on the inside of the deck. Let dry. Amazon has OEM spray paint. Make sure to get the rust off with a steel brush/power drill steel brush including the bubbled up paint with rust underneath it.
Front fuel filter is easy but it will make a mess even with hose clamps. I can't imagine doing it without. It is probably easier to do the rear fuel filter with the left rear tire off.
Use brake cleaner to clean the heck out of all fluid drains and strainer body before opening/removing. Use compressed air to dry the strainer before putting it back.
The official fluid amounts are very rough guidelines.
Dollar store aluminum trays, funnels and 4qt measurement cups are useful.
Hydraulic/transmission fluid. Back panel comes off with 4 14mm? Bolts. drain plug is at the very bottom on the horizontally mounted strainer housing. Dipstick is under the seat. The strainer housing comes off with 4 10mm bolts. The metal donut comes out with a small orange harbor freight 90 degree pick. There is space between the strainer and the donut to gently insert it from different angles and then pulling up. It may take 2-3 minutes before the donut comes out as it has 2 rubber O-rings. Remember to also clean the inside of the housing.
Front axle: Pull 2 12mm? drain plugs, 1 rubber dipstick cap, 2 rubber vent plugs. it takes forever to empty and then to fill the axle. Put a tray under it. The funnel will surely overflow when refilling. It is difficult to clean around the rubber drain plugs. Nothing much comes out before you pull those. My old oil was NASTY; probably factory original. The dipstick installs at an angle towards the center of the tractor. It is a nightmare to get the fluid level correct. The front axle is the worst task.
Coolant: Remove the right triangular panel with 3 12mm bolts. There are 2 drains that have to be open at the same time: small drain pipe at center bottom of radiator (side panel off) and bottom right center of engine 14mm? bolt. Also overflow tank empties by pulling bottom small hose by the removed side panel. The OEM Kubota coolant cost about the same shipped as my local auto supply store wanted for a gallon of the generic stuff so there is no reason to endless research the chemistry but remember to flush with distilled water before potentially switching back to the OEM coolant.
Deck: you need a shallow 1qt plus container for the oil. Good luck finding one. It will make a mess. Power wash bottom of deck. Let dry. Paint used motor oil on the inside of the deck. Let dry. Amazon has OEM spray paint. Make sure to get the rust off with a steel brush/power drill steel brush including the bubbled up paint with rust underneath it.
Front fuel filter is easy but it will make a mess even with hose clamps. I can't imagine doing it without. It is probably easier to do the rear fuel filter with the left rear tire off.
Use brake cleaner to clean the heck out of all fluid drains and strainer body before opening/removing. Use compressed air to dry the strainer before putting it back.
The official fluid amounts are very rough guidelines.
Dollar store aluminum trays, funnels and 4qt measurement cups are useful.