Got a deal on a broken B6200

[tractorslave]

Hi Guys this is my first post,
I bought a b6200 for 500.00 this week!!!!!!!!!!!
It's been sitting for a couple years, I changed the fuel and the fuel filter. Blead it per the video on this site/ youtube.
I got a new battery and I cant get it to start.
It turns over smoothly whit a little white smoke, I have glowed it thoroughly before attempting starting.
The compression release gizmo works kind of stiff and its not the cable its the shaft coming out of the cylinder-head cover that is a little sticky.
Would you guys recommend 3 new glow plugs?
Hey thanks for reading and I will appreciate any input.
Dave

 

[bruceatlam]

There are a lot of threads that relate to "tractor won't start" --- you can "Search the Forum". Look up on this page to the second black bar. In that row you'll find "Search". Search for "tractor won't start" --- see what you find. There's a lot of help ----------- If all that doesn't help you, come back to this thread.

 

[Stumpy]

Usually not a good sign. Probably means low compression though couldn't hurt to test the plugs. You got good fuel flow during the bleeding?

You can test the plugs with a multimeter, resistance should be around 5 Ohms. The, uhh for lack of a better word, "hillbilly" way I'd test em is to remove them and using a set of jumper cables hook 'em up to the battery one at a time. Negative on the threaded sleeve positive on the wire nut. Setup the plug and negative battery terminal first. Make sure you've got no shorts at the plug end and hold the clamp down on the positive terminal. Hold it for a good 5 seconds, sometimes the plugs will stop working once they get hot. Try not to touch the plug itself to anything, any contamination (skin oils, dirt) can cause the plug die. Plus it'll burn through stuff

The compression release mechanism is entirely contained in the valve cover. You can have it out of there in about a minute for inspection if you think that's the problem.

 

[MagKarl]

Try not to touch the plug itself to anything, any contamination (skin oils, dirt) can cause the plug die. Plus it'll burn through stuff

.

You do realize where glow plugs live, right? Heat, pressure, fuel, and fire, that's home for them.

 

[tractorslave]

OK Well,
Thanks for the replies.
I will run the search bar on this topic too.
Matt,
I had good fuel flow on outer cylinders but the center one was a little weak, like it was seeping rather than squirting.
I will be checking the glow plugs .
and probably pulling the valve cover to fing why the compression release is sticking

Stumpy,
I get it that life is hard for glow plugs, But what's the rest of your point?
They like it at home? , or they are probably shot from the hostile living conditions?
I really appreciate the help.
Dave

 

[bruceatlam]

I'm guessing that you bought it "not running"? What did the prior owner tell you? At $500 it must have been sold "with issues" ---

 

[MagKarl]

I was just giving Stumpy a hard time about cautioning you about getting skin oil on the plugs.

I would sort out the compression release first before worrying about the glow plugs. With reduced or no compression, it's not going to run. Make sure that is fully closing. Get a compression tester on it.

 

[Stumpy]

Yeah I thought about that Karl but going off experience with furnace ignitors I thought it was better safe than sorry. I have yet to see an explanation for why it's bad but I had one fail the other week after the HVAC tech handled it. I do know the ignitor elements are usually made out of rather brittle silicone nitride while glow plugs used a platinum or iridium element. Dave I'm just saying I'd avoid touching the glow plug to anything.

Hopefully you've just got something wrong with release bar but my gut tells me your problem lies deeper. Test your glow plugs, make sure the compression release is in the off position and if it still doesn't work bleed the injectors again for good measure then rent, buy, or borrow a diesel compression tester.

 

[tractorslave]

OK
I got it started, and then it went like full throttle out of control.
The throttle lever had no response, AND the kill switch, linkage did nothing to stop it.
It's a monster, I had to completely choke off all the air to stop it.
Thanks for your help,
YES, I searched tractor wont stop in the search bar for a while.

Thanks
Dave

 

[gurn]

So it was like " Yes!.........Oh CRAP!" At least it started for ya.

 

[tractorslave]

It was more like Yes!!!
OH Crap!!!!
Am I going to die over a 500 dollar busted tractor??

Hey gang, the compression release thing works great now.

Dave

 

[Theekillerbee]

Sounds like a governer issue to me. This is different than a gasoline motor governer. I have no experience with the diesel governers personally, but I recall from other discussions that it is in the injector pump??? Could be wrong here. Old age and good memory doesn't go hand in hand....now what was I just saying?

 

[tractorslave]

Thanks
Does anyone have experience with the governor?

I could really use a schematic to help.
Dave

 

[Kytim]

Thanks
Does anyone have experience with the governor?

I could really use a schematic to help.
Dave

There's some great Kubota techs on here but, it may take a few days. Busy time of year for dealers right now. I'm sure someone will get back to you in a littlebit.

 

[kubotainpittsburgh]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zx3qKX_Pno

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3NRaqgab0_w

 

[tractorslave]

Runaway WOW,
I think the defender 90 is a total loss but the old flatbed truck will live to fight another day.
Thanks for the video links.


It looks like since my owners manual just got here from ebay; That I may have the air inlet valve bleeder thing open. ( it's on the injector return line system).
Would this make the throttle and kill non responsive?
Dave