Good Battery...no start HST pedal neutral switch or ???

wendol

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L3800 HST
Feb 5, 2014
191
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North Tx
Several months ago I was having intermittent starting issues related to the HST pedal neutral switch on my L3800. Instead of adjusting the switch I made two jumper wires (Black w/white stripe to Red w/ black stripe) and (Black w/yellow stripe to Yellow w/black stripe). This set up work great until a couple of weeks ago, then it failed to start......cleaned the battery posts, ground to frame etc.......still no start, I redid the jumper wires on the neutral switch and it started. Two days later, no start again. I ordered a new safety switch and before mounting it, I plugged in the harness to the back of it, manually held the plunger in and tractor started fine. I then mounted adjusted switch and no start!!
Thinking maybe I didn't have it adjusted properly, I removed the switch and manually held the plunger in and no start!!

FWIW when the tractor would start (before the next no start), it was like the starter didn't catch in the normal position when turning the key left to right......seemed to catch in the extreme right position.

Totally stumped at this point, thoughts or suggestion certainly appreciated!!
 

old and tired

Well-known member

Equipment
L2800 HST; 2005; R4
I had my first "no-start" last week, I held the key in the start position and I rocked the pedal forward and as I moved it backwards, the starter kick in and off I go.

Try to find the sweet spot with the HST moving back and fourth...
 
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wendol

Active member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3800 HST
Feb 5, 2014
191
37
28
80
North Tx
I had my first "no-start" last week, I held the key in the start position and I rocked the pedal forward and as I moved it backwards, the starter kick in and off I go.

Try to find the sweat spot with the HST moving back and fourth...
Right now the wiring harness is connected to the neutral switch, but have the neutral switch hand held to press the plunger by hand (thus eliminating any pedal motion) still will not start, no noise.
Head lights come on, dash light come on..........
 

Russell King

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Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
Jun 17, 2012
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Austin, Texas
Sounds like it may be a bad key (or starting) switch. See if feeding power directly to the spade terminal on the starter cranks the tractor. I suggest that you get the rear wheels off the ground and support the rear axle high enough so that the tractor can’t move (if it is 4wd I would get all 4 wheels off the ground). That way it can’t run over you and kill or cripple you if it does crank and start.

The power you are applying needs to be momentarily to the starter solenoid terminal so rig it with a push button switch or some way to disconnect it from the spade. You will be bypassing the key and safety switches just to prove that the key switch may be the problem. I guess you can get power from the red battery lug on the starter and use a screwdriver if you are familiar with that technique and comfortable with it. If it cranks every time that points to a circuit problem to the starter spade terminal.

Then you may want to get more advice on that if it seems to be the problem
 

whitetiger

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Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
Nov 20, 2011
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Kansas City, KS
Here is a wiring schematic for your tractor. You need to get out your test light or meter and check the circuit to see what has failed.
 

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wendol

Active member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L3800 HST
Feb 5, 2014
191
37
28
80
North Tx
Here is a wiring schematic for your tractor. You need to get out your test light or meter and check the circuit to see what has failed.
Many thanks for the wiring schematic......will download and hang on to it!!

There appears to be a short in one or more of the wires from the tractor side connector (female) that connects to the neutral switch. I discovered late yesterday, after a no start, wiggling the wires on the wires entering the connector, would allow a normal start.

I don't know if I can find a replacement connector (since it's apparently part of the factory wiring?), or just cut off the connector and jump the wires at that point.