G5200 Mower Deck RC 48 G

Smokeless

Member

Equipment
3901/Loader/Rear Blade/Box Blade/LP Mower/Pallet forks IH M,,Cub & sickle mower
Feb 5, 2018
237
9
18
Southern Illinois
Hello Again,
I just struggled a good bit placing the mower deck back on the rear tractor control arms......first shot at it. I have the original tractor and mower deck operating manuals. The mower operating manual on page 6 shows the control arms coming down to the rear of the deck easily, but that was anything than my experience. It seemed somewhat easier when I elevated the front of the deck a few inches which helped putting the rear pins in, but it still was a chore.

My question is there a technique or a procedure I am missing? The tractor control arms just dont come down far enough for an easier procedure. Am I missing something?
 

cliffboyer

Active member

Equipment
L3301 w/LA525 loader, G5200 mower w/RC48 deck, Kawasaki 610 Mule, DR mower
Nov 30, 2017
240
48
28
Southern IL
Sounds like you have the manual lift (non-hydraulic). There is a rather beefy spring that aids in lift force, in addition to the manual lever. With no weight (no deck) on the spring, you have put a fair amount of effort on that raise/lower lever to get those lift arms down.

My order of operations to attach deck are: drive shaft connected first, then front support arms, and rear arms last. The 48" deck (most common on G5200) uses front holes in arms. I use a floor jack to raise front of tractor high enough to easily slide deck under tractor.

Setting up deck is tricky, but not overly complicated. Rear is simple, controlled by out-rigger wheels. Make sure both are set the same.

Fore/aft is set by adjusting front support arms. Detailed instructions with measurements are in manual. And yes, a 2x block under front of deck helps getting these attached.

Tip...the turnbuckles on the lift arms do nothing for setting deck up for cutting. Never understood why these are there, other than perhaps to adjust the lifted height. Although if turned up too much, will actually lift rear of deck when in lowered position. The lifting arms should not carry any weight with deck lowered. Only the outriggers and front support arms carry the deck when mowing.

Once you see how it all works together, do it a couple times, then removal and installing are easy. Once setup correctly, adjustments are seldom required.
 

Smokeless

Member

Equipment
3901/Loader/Rear Blade/Box Blade/LP Mower/Pallet forks IH M,,Cub & sickle mower
Feb 5, 2018
237
9
18
Southern Illinois
Sounds like you have the manual lift (non-hydraulic). There is a rather beefy spring that aids in lift force, in addition to the manual lever. With no weight (no deck) on the spring, you have put a fair amount of effort on that raise/lower lever to get those lift arms down.

My order of operations to attach deck are: drive shaft connected first, then front support arms, and rear arms last. The 48" deck (most common on G5200) uses front holes in arms. I use a floor jack to raise front of tractor high enough to easily slide deck under tractor.

Setting up deck is tricky, but not overly complicated. Rear is simple, controlled by out-rigger wheels. Make sure both are set the same.

Fore/aft is set by adjusting front support arms. Detailed instructions with measurements are in manual. And yes, a 2x block under front of deck helps getting these attached.

Tip...the turnbuckles on the lift arms do nothing for setting deck up for cutting. Never understood why these are there, other than perhaps to adjust the lifted height. Although if turned up too much, will actually lift rear of deck when in lowered position. The lifting arms should not carry any weight with deck lowered. Only the outriggers and front support arms carry the deck when mowing.

Once you see how it all works together, do it a couple times, then removal and installing are easy. Once setup correctly, adjustments are seldom required.
What a great detailed post, thanks.

Yes, manual lift. Was trying to figure out how to get the lift arms a tad more flexible, but I guess how far they come down thats it. Pleased to hear you confirmed best to lift front of deck a few inches. Will cut me some pieces for that rather than using scrap.

Thought I would take the pins and run them over the grinder just a little to get the burrs off and help ease of installation.

I guess there is no advantage trying to disengage large spring or you would have mentioned it.

I am afraid this fall several patches or larger pieces are in order to repair the deck. In the meantime will be looking for a replacement, but these relics are getting on. Motor still strong, even with 3600 hrs. Dad took care of it.

thanks for taking them time to share
 

cliffboyer

Active member

Equipment
L3301 w/LA525 loader, G5200 mower w/RC48 deck, Kawasaki 610 Mule, DR mower
Nov 30, 2017
240
48
28
Southern IL
When arms are lowered and held in place by the control lever, they should be low enough to insert pins without much effort other than sliding deck slightly to line up holes.

Accessing that lifting spring is not an easy or viable option for deck attachment.

Yup, I had to do some rot repair on mine a few years ago. Will post some photos later on that endeavor.

Where abouts in S. Il you located?
 

Smokeless

Member

Equipment
3901/Loader/Rear Blade/Box Blade/LP Mower/Pallet forks IH M,,Cub & sickle mower
Feb 5, 2018
237
9
18
Southern Illinois
When arms are lowered and held in place by the control lever, they should be low enough to insert pins without much effort other than sliding deck slightly to line up holes.

Accessing that lifting spring is not an easy or viable option for deck attachment.

Yup, I had to do some rot repair on mine a few years ago. Will post some photos later on that endeavor.

Where abouts in S. Il you located?
I thought the lift arms should be closer to the rear deck lift points based on pictures in the manual and your description. Now that I reflect on it the connection points did line up better once I elevated the front of the deck a few inches, maybe about 3".

I ran the mower last nite a few mins, cut great. Engine still strong after 3600 hrs, amazing. Dad took good care of it, but the deck is nearly toast. Three sizable patches now and a full scale top repair on the bucket list for this fall. It will only get minimal use this summer, we have zero turns for primary use.
We are close to st louis.
 

cliffboyer

Active member

Equipment
L3301 w/LA525 loader, G5200 mower w/RC48 deck, Kawasaki 610 Mule, DR mower
Nov 30, 2017
240
48
28
Southern IL
Me too....about 15 miles north of Edwardsville out in the sticks.
 

cliffboyer

Active member

Equipment
L3301 w/LA525 loader, G5200 mower w/RC48 deck, Kawasaki 610 Mule, DR mower
Nov 30, 2017
240
48
28
Southern IL
Bending that radius in 12ga sheet metal was no easy task. Had wanted to do as 1pc, however the method I used didn't allow it....had to split the patch.
 

Attachments

Smokeless

Member

Equipment
3901/Loader/Rear Blade/Box Blade/LP Mower/Pallet forks IH M,,Cub & sickle mower
Feb 5, 2018
237
9
18
Southern Illinois
Bending that radius in 12ga sheet metal was no easy task. Had wanted to do as 1pc, however the method I used didn't allow it....had to split the patch.
Well that is one fine repair job. I bet bending 12 gage was a bit of a challenge. My deck repair is a little more complex. Just about the entire top is in poor shape, rusted though. A Kubota mechanic did a pretty good job repairing a really bad spot and that ought to help for this year, but come this fall I will need to do a pretty extensive repair. I have a shop press and pretty sure I can fab a jig to bend some pieces, albeit I have not tried yet.

Thanks for the pics, wish my rusty area was that confined. Who knows, I may find a better deck by then