Cleaned tanks, cleaned fuel lines from right/left tank. Cleaned water fuel separator, put new spin on fuel filter. Filled separator & spin on filter with fuel and put on. Then opened bleed nut on injection pump and bled out sir. M95S just turns over but not starting. Sprayed very small lubricating starter fluid in air filter inlet while trying to start and the M95S starts but dies after using the starting fluid spray. I need direction on solving this issue. Thanks for all recommendations. 2006 model 1500 hours. NOTE: Purchased this unit from a former coworker. Operated machine over a year. Then wouldn't run. Had local Kubota dealer pickup unit and the fuel/water separator was clogged with sugar/salt substance. Kubota said they cleaned tanks, lines & fuel separator. Unit has did great for the past 9 years until now.
Fuel issue delivery
- Thread starter Cherokee111
- Start date
1st get RID of the ETHER !! Hopefully you haven't destroyed the engine ( it don't take but a wiff....).
2nd test / confirm all glow plugs ARE working. Each plug typically is 1 ohm, and draw 10 amps.
3rd preheat for 60 seconds, crank and see what happens.....
2nd test / confirm all glow plugs ARE working. Each plug typically is 1 ohm, and draw 10 amps.
3rd preheat for 60 seconds, crank and see what happens.....
Russell King
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Did you follow the recommendations in the operating manual to bleed the fuel system? I don’t think you did since I doubt it says to fill the filters.
So I recommend that you get the operation manual and follow the complete process to get the air out of the system. The injector lines probably still have air in them assuming your tractor is older and doesn’t have a high pressure fuel rail system.
And don’t use starting fluid on a diesel engine. You can destroy the engine by bending rods.
So I recommend that you get the operation manual and follow the complete process to get the air out of the system. The injector lines probably still have air in them assuming your tractor is older and doesn’t have a high pressure fuel rail system.
And don’t use starting fluid on a diesel engine. You can destroy the engine by bending rods.
The M1078
The M1078 that I owned for three years that had an inline 6-cylinder Caterpillar engine had a built in ether system for cold starts.
does your tractor have a fuel primer on it? i don't remember but here are some generic steps to bleed similiar tractors that should work for you.
1. Fill the tank. If not full or near empty you may be fighting a loosing battle.
2. I have never owned that model so not sure if it has a primer or bleed screw.
- If you have a manual primer pump the primer handle until you see no air bubble in the fuel. Just solid fuel with no air bubbles in it.
- if bleed screw which I think you have turn it counter clock wise about 1 turn or a little more until you see fuel coming out. Use a lot of rags and don't be stingy about wasting fuel. Let her bleed to ensure air bubbles cleared. I have seen people stop bleeding way to soon getting problems like you describe.
give it a try to start. often it will run and stop. Repeat and maybe repeat again.
its all about getting the air bubble out so sometimes you need to make the process more than a couple of times.
fuel problems due to moisture, bacteria, fungus, and mould seems to be the #1 issue we are seeing around these parts for guys who are light users who arn't burning say a tank a month or more. I think you will find once you get her running you will need to start using appropriate additives if not able to keep your fuel fresh. We have an old farmers club that meet for coffee daily and seems couple of times a week a local small plot owner will sit with us asking questions about keeping their diesels running when they use less than a tank say every month or so. Fuel quality (like quality of a lot of stuff these days) sure has gone downhill. Sounds like you may be a low volume fuel user and are about to learn about the downside of bio-diesel and fuel thats say over a month old.
cheers
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North Idaho Wolfman
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If your getting fuel to bleed from the injection pump input, then your issue is more than likely a problem with the stop solenoid.
Remove the fuel inlet line off the pump (yellow) and operate the primer (green) and see if you get good fuel flow.
You will need the WSM (aka service manual) to know how to test the stop solenoid for operation.
But start by checking fuses.
Remove the fuel inlet line off the pump (yellow) and operate the primer (green) and see if you get good fuel flow.
You will need the WSM (aka service manual) to know how to test the stop solenoid for operation.
But start by checking fuses.
pretry much any diesel. its not a good thing even for gas motors. now if its got a factory ether injection system that is not the same thing as a spray can of ether... my grandpappy said to give it three small jiggers of ether is not an actual measurement. factory ether systems are injecting a precise measured dose mixed with fuel.
if it wont start normally a spray can is not going to fix the deeper issue and will only cause whatever problem is to get worse. same is true from junk crap like seafoam.
masking problems just let it linger from a moderately pricey repair to having to spend an ass load of money on new engines trans or whole vehicles.