First time kubota owner - B8200-HST left rear axle seal leak

JUSS10

Member

Equipment
Kubota B8200-HST
Mar 2, 2021
34
3
8
West Michigan
As the title states, I just bought my first Kubota. I picked up an 85 B8200-HST with a FEL, front mount snow blower, rear blade and some other odds and ends. Trying to familiarize myself with the tractor and plan to do a total fluid and filter change in the next week or as I don't know when it was all last done. Looking things over there are two leaks on the tractor. One appears to be an old hydraulic line on the right type side of the transmission that I'm guessing just needs to be replaced. The other is the left rear axle seal. Its just a few drops a day. I did a little research and was hopeful that it was an easy fix but I'm starting to think I need to split the case to change it. Trying to decide if its worth it or if I should just do the fluid change and see if it seals better once the weather warms up. I'd consider myself handy and have rebuilt quite a few engines over the years and such but cracking open a transmission isn't something I've ever done.
 

arto98607

Member

Equipment
Kubota F3060, Grasshopper 721D, Ford 1310, JD 440 ICD, JD 300
Aug 24, 2014
64
4
8
Southwest WA State
It's not going to seal the leak by itself once the weather warms up.

I recommend getting Kubota workshop manual from a dealer if you plan on keeping this tractor.
It will explain what is involved in changing the leaky seal etc.
 

JUSS10

Member

Equipment
Kubota B8200-HST
Mar 2, 2021
34
3
8
West Michigan
It's not going to seal the leak by itself once the weather warms up.

I recommend getting Kubota workshop manual from a dealer if you plan on keeping this tractor.
It will explain what is involved in changing the leaky seal etc.
yeah I plan to get the manual. And yeah knew it re-sealing was a long shot. Guess if it stays just a few drips a day, is there any harm so long as I put cardboard down? Pretty sure I need to split the case to get at the seal (will confirm once I get the WSM) and the gasket on the case doesn’t appear to be available anymore so that means RTV, wouldn’t it?
 

arto98607

Member

Equipment
Kubota F3060, Grasshopper 721D, Ford 1310, JD 440 ICD, JD 300
Aug 24, 2014
64
4
8
Southwest WA State
I am not familiar with this design, but often shaft seals can be removed from the outside without dismantling the case.
So it depends...
 

JUSS10

Member

Equipment
Kubota B8200-HST
Mar 2, 2021
34
3
8
West Michigan
Yeah on most it appears the hub comes off the shaft so you can pull the seal out. On the B8200 the hub and shaft are one solid cast unit. I can see the seal but pretty sure the case needs to be split so I can pull all the bearings and snap rings to remove the shaft and get the old seal off. Not fun. Just want to make sure I’m not over looking it.
 

Big Kahuna

Member

Equipment
Kubota 2000 L3010 HST with Loader ,1992 B7100HST , 1979 B6100E & 2007 F2880
Dec 23, 2011
353
6
18
Homer City, Pa.
You don't need to split the case. Dig the oil seal out, you will see a circlip holding the bearing in, pull shaft out and remove small circlip on end, remove all from this end, then reinstall with oil seal going on first.
1/2 hour job per side.
 

JUSS10

Member

Equipment
Kubota B8200-HST
Mar 2, 2021
34
3
8
West Michigan
You don't need to split the case. Dig the oil seal out, you will see a circlip holding the bearing in, pull shaft out and remove small circlip on end, remove all from this end, then reinstall with oil seal going on first.
1/2 hour job per side.
oh man this makes me feel better. Still wondering if I should get the WSM manual before tackling this assuming it’ll show how to do this with detail?
 

kubotasam

Well-known member

Equipment
B2410, B7100dt, B7500,Woods BH750,Landpride 2660RFM, Tiller, B2781 Snowblower
Apr 26, 2010
1,200
125
63
Alfred Maine
Yeah on most it appears the hub comes off the shaft so you can pull the seal out. On the B8200 the hub and shaft are one solid cast unit. I can see the seal but pretty sure the case needs to be split so I can pull all the bearings and snap rings to remove the shaft and get the old seal off. Not fun. Just want to make sure I’m not over looking it.
Yes you will need to pull the axel case off to replace the seal.
B8200.jpg
 
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JUSS10

Member

Equipment
Kubota B8200-HST
Mar 2, 2021
34
3
8
West Michigan
Well that’s confusing. One of you says the case needs to be pulled, the other says no. Can anyone who owns a B8200, or has done this on this model tractor confirm how it needs to be done? If I can do it without splitting the case, then I’ll do it. If I have to split the case I may just let it drip and keep some cardboard down for now.

looking at the parts diagram I can kind of see how you can pull a circlip and then slide out the axle. What I’m confused by is that it seems if you pull the axle, the spur gear will drop out of alignment.

pulled this picture of an axle case half for sale on eBay. Seems the shaft is what locates the spur gear.
 

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kubotasam

Well-known member

Equipment
B2410, B7100dt, B7500,Woods BH750,Landpride 2660RFM, Tiller, B2781 Snowblower
Apr 26, 2010
1,200
125
63
Alfred Maine
Well that’s confusing. One of you says the case needs to be pulled, the other says no. Can anyone who owns a B8200, or has done this on this model tractor confirm how it needs to be done? If I can do it without splitting the case, then I’ll do it. If I have to split the case I may just let it drip and keep some cardboard down for now.

looking at the parts diagram I can kind of see how you can pull a circlip and then slide out the axle. What I’m confused by is that it seems if you pull the axle, the spur gear will drop out of alignment.

pulled this picture of an axle case half for sale on eBay. Seems the shaft is what locates the spur gear.
You answered your own question with your picture. The axel case needs to come off to remove the axel. Then the seal can be removed.
I'm not quite sure what you mean when you say " the spur gear will drop out of alignment"
 

JUSS10

Member

Equipment
Kubota B8200-HST
Mar 2, 2021
34
3
8
West Michigan
You answered your own question with your picture. The axel case needs to come off to remove the axel. Then the seal can be removed.
I'm not quite sure what you mean when you say " the spur gear will drop out of alignment"
I meant that the spur appears to be held in place by the axle. If you pulled the axle out from the housing, nothing would be left in there to keep the spur aligned.

so next question, the gasket that goes between the axle housing and transmission case is no longer available according to messicks, do you just use RTV then?
 

kubotasam

Well-known member

Equipment
B2410, B7100dt, B7500,Woods BH750,Landpride 2660RFM, Tiller, B2781 Snowblower
Apr 26, 2010
1,200
125
63
Alfred Maine
I meant that the spur appears to be held in place by the axle. If you pulled the axle out from the housing, nothing would be left in there to keep the spur aligned.
The axel housing (case) is off the tractor. You pull the gear off the end of the axel to get to the snap ring that holds the axel into the housing.
so next question, the gasket that goes between the axle housing and transmission case is no longer available according to messicks, do you just use RTV then?
If the gasket is not available I think I would make a gasket. I think RTV would be fine also.
 

whitetiger

Moderator
Staff member

Equipment
Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
Nov 20, 2011
2,542
1,059
113
Kansas City, KS
Well that’s confusing. One of you says the case needs to be pulled, the other says no. Can anyone who owns a B8200, or has done this on this model tractor confirm how it needs to be done? If I can do it without splitting the case, then I’ll do it. If I have to split the case I may just let it drip and keep some cardboard down for now.

looking at the parts diagram I can kind of see how you can pull a circlip and then slide out the axle. What I’m confused by is that it seems if you pull the axle, the spur gear will drop out of alignment.

pulled this picture of an axle case half for sale on eBay. Seems the shaft is what locates the spur gear.
I have replaced several rear axle seals on this series of tractors. Yes, you have to remove the axle housing, pull the inner bearing, remove the gear, push the axle shaft/bearing/seal out of the housing. You then remove the snap ring, remove the bearing, and seal from the shaft.
You slide the new seal onto the axle shaft, install the outer bearing, and the snap ring. Install the shaft and bearing into the axle housing, reinstall the gear, then the inner bearing. Install the housing back on the tractor using RTV, install bolts and torque them to spec.
Now, you can install the new seal into the axle housing, the inner bearing will now keep the axle shaft from having any lateral movement and getting damaged. Refill with hydraulic your hydraulic oil. It is also a good time to reinstall the rear wheel/tire assembly.
 
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whitetiger

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Staff member

Equipment
Kubota tech..BX2370, RCK60, B7100HST, RTV900 w plow, Ford 1100 FWA
Nov 20, 2011
2,542
1,059
113
Kansas City, KS
You don't need to split the case. Dig the oil seal out, you will see a circlip holding the bearing in, pull shaft out and remove small circlip on end, remove all from this end, then reinstall with oil seal going on first.
1/2 hour job per side.
That is for a BX series only.
 

JUSS10

Member

Equipment
Kubota B8200-HST
Mar 2, 2021
34
3
8
West Michigan
I have replaced several rear axle seals on this series of tractors. Yes, you have to remove the axle housing, pull the inner bearing, remove the gear, push the axle shaft/bearing/seal out of the housing. You then remove the snap ring, remove the bearing, and seal from the shaft.
You slide the new seal onto the axle shaft, install the outer bearing, and the snap ring. Install the shaft and bearing into the axle housing, reinstall the gear, then the inner bearing. Install the housing back on the tractor using RTV, install bolts and torque them to spec.
Now, you can install the new seal into the axle housing, the inner bearing will now keep the axle shaft from having any lateral movement and getting damaged. Refill with hydraulic your hydraulic oil. It is also a good time to reinstall the rear wheel/tire assembly.
thanks for this. Makes sense. Though I have all the tools to do this job, I’ve only had the tractor for less than a week. May call the dealer and see what they would charge to do this. Otherwise I may just make a catch cup of sorts to hang under the axle for time being and see how much fluid Im loosing. Right now it seems to be just a few drops a day.
 

JUSS10

Member

Equipment
Kubota B8200-HST
Mar 2, 2021
34
3
8
West Michigan
So I called the dealer. They quoted 10 hrs of labor for the job so yeah... not going to do that. I think I'll just change the fluids and run it this spring then tackle this seal in the summer when the weather is warmer and I have some room in the barn. I did get a digital copy of the WSM and it make it seem like a pretty "simple" job (don't all shop manuals?).

That said, There are two part numbers for the seal. One is just the seal, and the other is the seal and what appears to be a sleeve. I'm assuming this sleeve is glued/press fit on to the shaft as a replaceable wear item. I want to order the parts so I have them when I'm ready. Can I get by with just the seal or should I order the package with the sleeve?

Also just so I understand the process. Remove the wheel, the fender and any other brackets attached to the axle housing, drain the transmission, remove the linkage to the brake arm, remove all the bolts from the housing, remove the housing, pull the seal, remove the inner snap ring, remove the internal bearing, remove the 60 tooth spur gear and push the axle out. Then there is an outer cir clip that comes off and a bearing that slides off, now I can remove the old seal and put everything back in reverse and torque to spec and refill. Does that sound right? The pictures in the WSM aren't the clearest nor are the instructions containing much detail. I'm going based on that, the parts diagrams and photos of used parts online.

Also, and I may get some flack for this, but since I plan to put new fluids in now (have no clue when it was last done, owner of the tractor had passed away) and use it for a bit, when I get to replacing the seal, if I clean everything REALLY well before draining the transmission fluid in to a clean container, can I reuse it? Just hate to toss out 5 gallons of UDT that may only have 25ish hours on it by this summer when I would get to the seal.

Thanks

Justin
 

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