FEL bucket -should steel be added

[Colb56]

I am thinking this is the right place to post this ?

My used B2601 was delivered 4 days ago and while looking around saw that some of the things one might consider because of how usefulthey are is to add a few hooks to the bucket.

I have a few questions that I need advice on. I know the hooks should be in line with the loader arms . With that out of the way should I consider adding a piece of 1/4" flat bar on top of the bucket to add strength and then weld the hooks on or just weld the hooks on to the bucket ?

The SSQA bucket that is on it seems somewhat thick but I'm not sure how thick it actually is and might be able to be used as a place to bolt or weld hooks. I don't believe that they will be used for any major work but aide in pulling a log or 2.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I am thinking this is the right place to post this ?

My used B2601 was delivered 4 days ago and while looking around saw that some of the things one might consider because of how usefulthey are is to add a few hooks to the bucket.

I have a few questions that I need advice on. I know the hooks should be in line with the loader arms . With that out of the way should I consider adding a piece of 1/4" flat bar on top of the bucket to add strength and then weld the hooks on or just weld the hooks on to the bucket ?

The SSQA bucket that is on it seems somewhat thick but I'm not sure how thick it actually is and might be able to be used as a place to bolt or weld hooks. I don't believe that they will be used for any major work but aide in pulling a log or 2.

Depends on how thatvtop edhe is made. On the LA525 bucket the top edge is multiple layers of steel so ots plenty strong. A picture of yoor bucket would be informative.

Dan

 

[TheOldHokie]

Than


Thanks Dan, Not sure at the moment how to post a picture so I’ll have to research this and find out.

Pictures are easy.

Start a reply to this thread and click on the picture icon in the toolbar. A dialog will pop up telling you to drag and drop the image on the box. If you click on the box uou will get a new dialog that lets you browse your files for the image. That dialog will also let you choose "camera" and take a picture in real time.

I should add that is how itvworks on Android, Apple may be a lottle different....

Dan

 

[Colb56]

Pictures are easy.

Start a reply to this thread and click on the picture icon in the toolbar. A dialog will pop up telling you to drag and drop the image on the box. If you click on the box uou will get a new dialog that lets you browse your files for the image. That dialog will also let you choose "camera" and take a picture in real time.

I should add that is how itvworks on Android, Apple may be a lottle different....

Dan

 

[GeoHorn]

Some buckets have a “rolled” top edge...”intended” to add strength. But in reality, that top edge can be bent out of shape when running into a dirt-pile or stacked logs…or used to push items.

A ”plate” of steel added to the top edge….fitted in-to that rolled edge… can not only provide added strength but also a nice, flat “top” to which can be added hooks, or a central clevis… etc.

 

[jyoutz]

My current tractor came from the dealer with the hooks welded directly to the bucket, but it’s a stout bucket. On my last smaller tractor, I didn’t feel comfortable doing that, so I bought a piece of angle iron the length of the bucket lip and welded the hooks onto that. Then I bolted the angle iron with grade 8 bolts to the loader bucket lip. This undoubtedly strengthened the bucket lip and also avoided messing up my bucket in case my welding wasn’t up to par. I had that tractor for 22 years and there was no bending of the bucket or welding failure.

 

[TheOldHokie]

Any stiffening on the underside of that top rail? Even without stiffening I would weld hooks to it right next to the rear gussets and another in the center.

Personally I see no need but if you want added strength add a gusset on the underside of the hook. You are far more likely to bend the cutting edge long before that top rail.


Dan

 

[chim]

If you're set on using hooks, and need something good why not check with Ken's Bolt on Hooks?

 

[Colb56]

My current tractor came from the dealer with the hooks welded directly to the bucket, but it’s a stout bucket. On my last smaller tractor, I didn’t feel comfortable doing that, so I bought a piece of angle iron the length of the bucket lip and welded the hooks onto that. Then I bolted the angle iron with grade 8 bolts to the loader bucket lip. This undoubtedly strengthened the bucket lip and also avoided messing up my bucket in case my welding wasn’t up to par. I had that tractor for 22 years and there was no bending of the bucket or welding failure.

Thank you so very much. This sounds like something that I very well may do. It makes a lot of sense and the angle iron might be stiffer then the flat bar or are would they be about the same ?

What size did you go with … 1/4 inch thick ?

 

[jyoutz]

Thank you so very much. This sounds like something that I very well may do. It makes a lot of sense and the angle iron might be stiffer then the flat bar or are would they be about the same ?

What size did you go with … 1/4 inch thick ?

1/4” thick and it was a size like 2” x3” so there was less overhang on the bucket. The angle iron is significantly stiffer than flat bar steel.

 

[Colb56]

Any stiffening on the underside of that top rail? Even without stiffening I would weld hooks to it right next to the rear gussets and another in the center.

Personally I see no need but if you want added strength add a gusset on the underside of the hook. You are far more likely to bend the cutting edge long before that top rail.


Dan

So Dan would it then be more of a benefit to also put a piece of say 3/8 flat bar underneath the bucket mated up close to the tooth bar as well as a plate on top of the bucket with the hooks welded to the plate and the plate bolted on ?

I thought about putting a clevis mount like so for a 1/2" shackle in the middle.

 

[Colb56]

Some buckets have a “rolled” top edge...”intended” to add strength. But in reality, that top edge can be bent out of shape when running into a dirt-pile or stacked logs…or used to push items.

A ”plate” of steel added to the top edge….fitted in-to that rolled edge… can not only provide added strength but also a nice, flat “top” to which can be added hooks, or a central clevis… etc.

View attachment 124646

What size plate is that ? 1/4" ? It looks really nice !! Would you think bolting it on would be better in case for some reason it needs to come off ?

 

[Colb56]

1/4” thick and it was a size like 2” x3” so there was less overhang on the bucket. The angle iron is significantly stiffer than flat bar steel.

Would you by chance have a picture that you could post of it ? I assume that the angled part should be towards the operator ?

 

[jyoutz]

Would you by chance have a picture that you could post of it ? I assume that the angled part should be towards the operator ?

I sold that tractor. I just had the short angle iron side over the inside of the bucket lip, and the longer side on top with the hooks and bolts attached.

 

[TheOldHokie]

So Dan would it then be more of a benefit to also put a piece of say 3/8 flat bar underneath the bucket mated up close to the tooth bar as well as a plate on top of the bucket with the hooks welded to the plate and the plate bolted on ?

I thought about putting a clevis mount like so for a 1/2" shackle in the middle.

I was talking about bending the bucket when the tooth bar is off. I will just repeat my opinion one more time and I am done.

That air bent top channel and associated gusseting is going to support way more than your loader can lift or the tractor can generate in tension.

Dan

 

[Matt Ellerbee]

Buy them from Ken and glue them on.

 

[Colb56]

Thanks for all the replies. It appears this topic is … let’s just say beating a dead horse. Thanks again all.

 

[GeoHorn]

If you're set on using hooks, and need something good why not check with Ken's Bolt on Hooks?

I’m reluctant to criticize Ken’s bolt-on hooks. They are an excellent solution for someone who doesn’t have the ability (or convenience) to weld… but welds are stronger than bolts and spread the stresses over a larger area, which is better.

What size plate is that ? 1/4" ? It looks really nice !! Would you think bolting it on would be better in case for some reason it needs to come off ?

I would NOT think bolting is a better solution …. because bolts transfer/direct any impact forces to the small area where the bolt penetrates the bucket. (and Why would you ever want to remove it..??)
I bought the hooks at the parts-counter of my Kubota dealer, $5.

When selecting plate I’d suggest you measure the “lip” on your bucket and choose a piece of steel which sits on top of the bucket/brackets and meets the top edge of the lip. My bucket is likely larger than yours… so a 1/2” is what is on mine.

 

[Runs With Scissors]

I welded mine on.

But that's mostly due to the fact that I enjoy the hell out of welding, and generally dislike "hand drilling"

I'm not sure which is stronger though.

I could envision a weld that looks like "hammered dog shit" being weaker than the bolt on one.

 

[Colb56]

I’m reluctant to criticize Ken’s bolt-on hooks. They are an excellent solution for someone who doesn’t have the ability (or convenience) to weld… but welds are stronger than bolts and spread the stresses over a larger area, which is better.




I would NOT think bolting is a better solution …. because bolts transfer/direct any impact forces to the small area where the bolt penetrates the bucket. (and Why would you ever want to remove it..??)
I bought the hooks at the parts-counter of my Kubota dealer, $5.

When selecting plate I’d suggest you measure the “lip” on your bucket and choose a piece of steel which sits on top of the bucket/brackets and meets the top edge of the lip. My bucket is likely larger than yours… so a 1/2” is what is on mine.

Thanks for your reply . I just try to cover all bases as far as if I wanted to remove it. You’re 100% correct and there would’ve no need to but I was thinking what if I had to remove it. That’s the only reason.
I initially was going to buy either a flat bar or a piece of Angle and have the bolts welded on it, put it on top of the bucket and bolt it on only to cut down cost of having the welding shop down from me weld it. I checked and all around here they charge around $150.00/hour. Not sure how long it would take but I would think around. 1/2 hour.

Then I thought why not just pull the trigger and pay the 75 and have them weld the flat bar , the 2 hooks and a Clevis in the middle for a shackle onto the bucket. This way I don’t have to do anything other then spray paint it.
I assume that the stich weld will be stronger than bolting the flat bar or angle on.