F-2400 steering slop

[Laddie2]

I pulled the rear wheels & found a ridiculous amount of play in the "kingpin" & the ram rod ends.
Has anyone done this bearing replacement? I will be changing the oil in the rear housing.
This seems to be an expensive repair. both sides need fixing. I have the shop manual, but haven't received the operators manual yet. Thanks for your help. Laddie

 

[arto98607]

I pulled the rear wheels & found a ridiculous amount of play in the "kingpin" & the ram rod ends.
Has anyone done this bearing replacement? I will be changing the oil in the rear housing.
This seems to be an expensive repair. both sides need fixing. I have the shop manual, but haven't received the operators manual yet. Thanks for your help. Laddie

Looks like F2400 4x4 rear axle has similar design as my F3060 4x4 but I have not checked if any of the parts are identical or not?

Mine had some slop in the steering due to wear in the tie-rod ends, as well as "ram rod' back end and most of all the plastic bushings (item 40) which fit inside the knuckle arms (items 10 & 20) on both right & left side.


The bearings 100 & 120 were fine, but I did replace all the oil seals.

I removed the rear axle from the mower in order to have better working position, but I am sure the work can be done in place.

The mower steers good now!


F2400 knuckle arm:

F2400 Wheel Hub:

 

[Laddie2]

Part 40 the bushing was gone. Part 10 the inside is wallowed out right side.
Left side not as bad.
Parts on order. Also the rod ends of the hydraulic cylinder are on order.

 

[arto98607]

That sounds like a good plan to correct the steering - mine had couple of leaky oil seals in the rear axle which was the main reason for taking it apart.

How many hours on your F2400 ?

 

[Laddie2]

5000 Hrs.

 

[Laddie2]

What is the proper mower blades for the 72" deck?
I bought 396-814 G-6 24.5" hole too large.
Old blades have 0.900 holes, new blades 1.200.
I will probably make sleeves.
Does anyone know the model # for the 72 " deck, I can not find it., thanks.

 

[arto98607]

What is the proper mower blades for the 72" deck?
I bought 396-814 G-6 24.5" hole too large.

My RC72R-F30 mower deck uses OEM 70050-94622 blades but you should be able to see what Kubota recommends for your deck from a dealers website.

Last week I installed Oregon 91-493 blades which have 1 1/8" center holes and installed them by using S.S. "spacer rings" from 1 1/8" to 7/8" and they are working fine. Just make sure the rings are not wider than blade thickness.

These rings were easy to find on the eBay, but sorry I no longer have the link to that particular listing.
They center the blades and the fit is as good as the original blades with 7/8" holes and no vibration issues at all.

I also ordered yesterday same as you have, a set of Oregon Gator G-6 Mulcher blades 396-814 which should fit fine with the above "spacer rings".


We have had a Grasshopper 61" mower for about 18 years which I switched to G-6 Gator blades last year and I like the way they mulch the cuttings.

Just wanting to try out the Gator blades in F3060 - both of my mowers have a rear discharge.

I hope this helps,


This was the vendor and it looks like he is still active: https://www.ebay.com/usr/extsw1

Cheers

 

[arto98607]

5000 Hrs.

That's a lot of hours!

For most homeowners that's a lifetime of mowing and then some.

Like I mentioned in another thread mine has 3600 hours.

 

[Laddie2]

Thank you for the spacer tip, BUT I can not find anyone selling them.
I will have to make them.

 

[arto98607]

Thank you for the spacer tip, BUT I can not find anyone selling them.
I will have to make them.

No problem, but this should also work:

EXTSW 7/8" ID x 1 1/8” OD x 1/4” thick 304 stainless washer | eBay

EXTSW 7/8 ID x 1 1/8” OD x 1/4” 304 alloy stainless washer. Actual size. 907" ID x 1 115” OD x. 250 thick. 304 has better corrosion resistance than 303. 304 is weldable, 303 is not. "18-8" is a general classification of the 300 series Stainless steel, which includes 302, 302HQ, 303, 304, 305...

www.ebay.com

 

[Laddie2]

I don't understand, there is a 15/16" boss on the spindle & a 15/16" boss on the bolt, without washers it won't clamp the blade.
It was on with 2 - 15/16" id washers on the bottom. Is this how it is supposed to be?
Also the 24.5" blades hit the deck. Seem they should be higher up in the deck, they are right at the bottom edge. Newbie on commercial mowers.

 

[arto98607]

I don't understand, there is a 15/16" boss on the spindle & a 15/16" boss on the bolt, without washers it won't clamp the blade.
It was on with 2 - 15/16" id washers on the bottom. Is this how it is supposed to be?
Also the 24.5" blades hit the deck. Seem they should be higher up in the deck, they are right at the bottom edge. Newbie on commercial mowers.

Sorry, sounds like you mower deck spindles may have a different design?

Like was said earlier; my deck is RC72R-F30 and the blades need to have 7/8" holes.

The spindle bottom end is a straight 7/8" diameter with 7/8" thread and blade is held in place with a large nut & large regular type flat washer.

 

[Laddie2]

Sorry, sounds like you mower deck spindles may have a different design?

Like was said earlier; my deck is RC72R-F30 and the blades need to have 7/8" holes.

The spindle bottom end is a straight 7/8" diameter with 7/8" thread and blade is held in place with a large nut & large regular type flat washer.


View attachment 62280

View attachment 62288

I jacked the front end about 8" put wood under tires, put 2x4 under deck.
I made 3 - 7/8" ID x 1 1/8" OD bushings/sleeves on my Reed Prentice lathe.
24 1/2" blades were hitting the deck.
So I trimmed 1/4" off the diameter on my Bridgeport milling machine.
Now it works like a charm.

 

[Laddie2]

I am waiting on parts to fix the slop. I made a temp bushing out of aluminum and most of the slop is gone. I installed a new seat. I also took the dents out of the sheet metal. Replaced the gauge wheels and the mower blades.