Extra battery terminals

[The Evil Twin]

Searched the forum but didn’t find mention of this.
Found this little gadget for my SD batteries when adding some accessories. They made it very easy to tap off the battery posts. That got me thinking about the tractor. Looks like a winner there too! In addition to the product below, there is an adapter stud to keep the OEM battery clamps shown in the photo in case you don’t want to cut the clamp off and stick the bare wire in a set- screw (which works fine).

Ultimate Car Battery 0 Gauge Terminal

Connect your OEM Battery Connector without Cutting your Factory Wiring Harness. 1/0 and 4 Gauge Ports allow Auxiliary Battery Connections and Amp Installation

www.knukonceptz.com

 

[John T]

Pretty Fancy...

I have the "Mil-Spec" type clamps on my truck.
makes it easy to connect aux. cables

 

[mcfarmall]

I bought and installed a pair of the knuconceptz battery lugs on the M5660 when I ran power for auxiliary work lights and a pair of cigret lighter sockets. Exceptionally well-made products.

 

[Dustball]

Pretty Fancy...

I have the "Mil-Spec" type clamps on my truck.
makes it easy to connect aux. cables

View attachment 168707

Same here-

 

[Mark_BX25D]

Pretty Fancy...

I have the "Mil-Spec" type clamps on my truck.
makes it easy to connect aux. cables

View attachment 168707

There you go. Easy, neat, clean, and very durable.

 

[Hugo Habicht]

I have the "Mil-Spec" type clamps on my truck.
makes it easy to connect aux. cables

View attachment 168707

But they require the original wiring to be modified, not like the original posters solution where the original wiring stays as is.

 

[John T]

But they require the original wiring to be modified, not like the original posters solution where the original wiring stays as is.

ONLY if you buy the optional "top post adapter" for an extra $10.00 each.

either way, It's not a contest Hugo. I'm just pointing out a similar product.

 

[GreensvilleJay]

I see a lot of dissimilar metals in the clamp which allows for easy corrosion as well as 'stuffing bare wire into a hole' is not a good idea( more corrosion). Sure, it'll work 'ok' for a while but once 2-3 drops of water hit it you'll end up with 'funky' electrical problems.

 

[McMXi]

Searched the forum but didn’t find mention of this.
Found this little gadget for my SD batteries when adding some accessories. They made it very easy to tap off the battery posts. That got me thinking about the tractor. Looks like a winner there too! In addition to the product below, there is an adapter stud to keep the OEM battery clamps shown in the photo in case you don’t want to cut the clamp off and stick the bare wire in a set- screw (which works fine).

Ultimate Car Battery 0 Gauge Terminal

Connect your OEM Battery Connector without Cutting your Factory Wiring Harness. 1/0 and 4 Gauge Ports allow Auxiliary Battery Connections and Amp Installation

www.knukonceptz.com

View attachment 168705

You need to quit posting. You always seem to cost me money!

 

[The Evil Twin]

I see a lot of dissimilar metals in the clamp which allows for easy corrosion as well as 'stuffing bare wire into a hole' is not a good idea( more corrosion). Sure, it'll work 'ok' for a while but once 2-3 drops of water hit it you'll end up with 'funky' electrical problems.

Copper, Nickel and Brass are all compatible. Copper and nickel alloys are used in a host of environments. Brass and copper are used together in hydronic plants everywhere.
Set screw terminals (lugs) are also used everywhere. From the electric panels in your house to the AC unit. They are in your electric meter and the high voltage transformers on the street.
I think they’ll be fine on a vehicle.

 

[Mark_BX25D]

But they require the original wiring to be modified, not like the original posters solution where the original wiring stays as is.

True, but if you need to replace the cables (fixing corrosion, or you're doing an upgrade), there is no better way than with military clamps and compression-fitted cables.

 

[chim]

Even with metals that play nice together I coat those mating parts with a paste like Penetrox, Cu-Al Aid, NoAlox, etc

 

[lynnmor]

Even with metals that play nice together I coat those mating parts with a paste like Penetrox, Cu-Al Aid, NoAlox, etc

I have a 52 year old Siemens 100 amp panel that has now failed where two breakers connect to the bus, unlike materials. I did cleanup one connection but that breaker was beyond hope. The other connection wasted that bus position. I need to pull all of the breakers, clean the bus and apply a bit of No-Ox-ID. I just added a number of LED shop lights and they blinked, that was my clue about the poor connection, everything else showed no sign of a problem, I'm glad those cheap Chinese LED's saved the day.

 

[chim]

I have a 52 year old Siemens 100 amp panel that has now failed where two breakers connect to the bus, unlike materials. I did cleanup one connection but that breaker was beyond hope. The other connection wasted that bus position. I need to pull all of the breakers, clean the bus and apply a bit of No-Ox-ID. I just added a number of LED shop lights and they blinked, that was my clue about the poor connection, everything else showed no sign of a problem, I'm glad those cheap Chinese LED's saved the day.

A friend of mine had a smoke detector go in the middle of the night because his electric panel was self-destructing. Things DO happen.

 

[Mark_BX25D]

Even with metals that play nice together I coat those mating parts with a paste like Penetrox, Cu-Al Aid, NoAlox, etc

That's not a good thing. Many of those pastes have metal powder in them, and using the wrong one can cause corrosion. There are different pasts for different metals.

 

[JasonW]

I bought the same ones to use on my F250 for an onboard air system. Found them on the Tremor forum. Definitely quality, have used the military style ones also.

Did you upgrade tractors? That doesn’t look like a L2501.

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

Are Knu Konceptz an alternative to wheel weights?
Maybe they're for the big-stereo boys who don't own big crimpers?
There's a lot going on there, and in my experience complexity adds points of failure.

The military style is bulky enough...but will do the job, and for fewer pesos.

Not that I want to go back to hand-crank windows, and they do look cool, just a bit much for most applications.