Does the B7400 really have a class 1 3-point system, as advertised?

[kwhites634]

Just bought a boom pole, by County Line, through TSC, for my B7400. First crack out of the box, a cat 1 top link won't fit the anchor point on the back of the tractor; had to drop back to a cat 0 top link ($10 more, for some reason, although it's smaller overall than the cat 1).

Now I'm finding that the arms holding the draw bar won't spread enough to accomodate the pins on the boom pole. The arms have turnbuckles on them, so they should be adjustable, if I can get them freed up, but I can't imagine them adjusting all the way out to 30" from the 16" they're at now.

I'm wondering if the B7400 truly has a cat 1 3-point hitch, as it was advertised to have when new, or if mine's been changed for some reason.

Anybody had similar problems with this model?

 

[BigG]

What was to big on the top link? It is not uncommon to to grind the sides of the "pipe" down to hit on different tractors. If the boom pole is the $160 or so one check to see if the pin will fit in the hole of the draft link. If so reverse the pins so that they are on the inside of the arms. The turn buckles are to be adjustable for different applications. If they are rusted up you must free them up or replace them. However they will only spread until the draft links hit the tires. Once the boom is on you need to snug up the turn buckles so the draft links can not move to rub on the tires.

The Cat 1 on the vintage of tractor referred to the diameter of the pins. Often on the smaller tractors adjustment need to be made for things to work. The companies are now following so guide lines on the location or size that the implements are now built so they will fit onto a quick hitch. The system still has some bugs in it.

Look up a video on youtube from Tractor Mike and he talks about this in more detail.

 

[kwhites634]

What was to big on the top link? It is not uncommon to to grind the sides of the "pipe" down to hit on different tractors. If the boom pole is the $160 or so one check to see if the pin will fit in the hole of the draft link. If so reverse the pins so that they are on the inside of the arms. The turn buckles are to be adjustable for different applications. If they are rusted up you must free them up or replace them. However they will only spread until the draft links hit the tires. Once the boom is on you need to snug up the turn buckles so the draft links can not move to rub on the tires.

The Cat 1 on the vintage of tractor referred to the diameter of the pins. Often on the smaller tractors adjustment need to be made for things to work. The companies are now following so guide lines on the location or size that the implements are now built so they will fit onto a quick hitch. The system still has some bugs in it.

Look up a video on youtube from Tractor Mike and he talks about this in more detail.

Thanks for the comeback. I just came from the local Kubota dealer, who also suggested grinding down the ends of the bushing enough for it to fit the anchor point on the rear of the tractor. Said he's run across the problem before.

Trying to reverse the pins now; came in to try to find a socket big enough to do the job.

The turn buckles are about as rusted up as it's possible to get; hit them with penetrating oil a few hours ago.

 

[Russell King]

I think the lower pins are probably welded onto the boom pole. If they bolt on though, turn them to the inside so it’s not so wide.

I have had to do that to some implements to make them work.

If welded pins then see if new pins can be installed somewhere

 

[kwhites634]

Fortunately, the pins were bolted on. The 1 1/4" nuts took a 4' cheater bar over the breaker bar to loosen, but we got 'er did.

Now we need to shave down the bushing on one end of the top link so it will fit the anchor point on the tractor.

Might actually get some work done today, after all.

 

[Russell King]

Glad that worked out for you.

Plus if the pins are toward the center you can use your foot and leg strength to push the lift arms off the pins.