Do you reverse your rear blade for snow ... any issues?

Danl1957

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Hi Henro and thanks for the reply.

Yes, the dealer would suggest pushing snow which would mean twisting in the seat and looking over my shoulder, not sure I can do that very long. He believes it will not harm the asphalt.

I seem to get two types of reply's when asking around, one is that the rear blade with the top link shortened when pulling snow will not damage the driveway (or lengthen the top link when pushing), the other is that I need a high density poly cutting edge on the rear blade.

I am not sure which direction to go. If the high density poly edge is not needed, saving several hundred dollars is always welcome, but on the other hand if it saves the driveway, its rather cheap insurance.

Dan
 

jimh406

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A plastic or rubber edge is a good idea. I have only a tiny bit of asphalt around my house, so not really needed by me. Fwiw, https://www.goodworkstractors.com/ sells both types of edges if you don't have a local supplier. They have a 10% off sale, too. It appears.
 
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Henro

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Hi Henro and thanks for the reply.

Yes, the dealer would suggest pushing snow which would mean twisting in the seat and looking over my shoulder, not sure I can do that very long. He believes it will not harm the asphalt.

I seem to get two types of reply's when asking around, one is that the rear blade with the top link shortened when pulling snow will not damage the driveway (or lengthen the top link when pushing), the other is that I need a high density poly cutting edge on the rear blade.

I am not sure which direction to go. If the high density poly edge is not needed, saving several hundred dollars is always welcome, but on the other hand if it saves the driveway, its rather cheap insurance.

Dan
I don’t have any asphalt or paved driveways to deal with, so I don’t have any experience with them, but I would think it would be wise to have something softer than steel come in contact with the driveway surface.

I believe I’ve seen some people use rubber based horse mats from places like tractor supply, and cut them into strips for use between the back blade and the cutting edge that is bolted on, as an interface between the back blade and the driveway, so this is something you might consider.
 
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jyoutz

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I don’t have any asphalt or paved driveways to deal with, so I don’t have any experience with them, but I would think it would be wise to have something softer than steel come in contact with the driveway surface.

I believe I’ve seen some people use rubber based horse mats from places like tractor supply, and cut them into strips for use between the back blade and the cutting edge that is bolted on, as an interface between the back blade and the driveway, so this is something you might consider.
That would help, but it’s simpler to just reverse the blade.
 
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TheOldHokie

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That would help, but it’s simpler to just reverse the blade.
Its simpler to not over think it. I have plowed my asphalt lane with a steel blade and front loader for the last 20+ years with no ill effects. Can't say the same for the years before it was paved....

Dan
 
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jimh406

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Well, I used the rear blade backwards for the first time today. We had up to 10 inches in drifts. It worked well other than not having as many adjustment holes. Note: I just reversed it. I didn't take the blade off and reinstall. It didn't dig into the gravel and worked ok on our asphalt. But, as I said, I have barely any asphalt.

I planned to use my Polaris Ranger, but the snow was a bit heavier which made it not want to go off the road. When I got to the end of the driveway, I had a couple of feet pile. Possible to use the Ranger, but I just went up and got the L2501.
 
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Henro

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Well, I used the rear blade backwards for the first time today. We had up to 10 inches in drifts. It worked well other than not having as many adjustment holes. Note: I just reversed it. I didn't take the blade off and reinstall. It didn't dig into the gravel and worked ok on our asphalt. But, as I said, I have barely any asphalt.

I planned to use my Polaris Ranger, but the snow was a bit heavier which made it not want to go off the road. When I got to the end of the driveway, I had a couple of feet pile. Possible to use the Ranger, but I just went up and got the L2501.
I believe this is what everybody does. At least in my case the option of moving the cutting edge never occurred to me…
 
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RBsingl

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I use a Deere 955 compact utility with rear blade and I always reverse it for snow because I have two gravel driveways totaling over 500 feet and it would make a real mess in the aggressive "dig in" orientation. If there is a crusty spot that the blade wants to float over, I can either pull forward over it to break it up or use the loader bucket to break up the crust.

I haven't had to use the PTO driven snow blower since 2008 and I hope that streak continues. It is back into the mid 50s today and no significant snowfall so far this season. I was recently going through some of my father's old photos and letters and one written to him during WWII details the first heavy snow falling in Minier (central IL) on September 25th with heavy snows occurring at least weekly through February when the letter was written. I am glad I wasn't living here during what sounded like a mini ice age :)

Rodger
 
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Danl1957

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Thank you for all the replies and advice, haven’t had snow yet to try reversing the blade. I did purchase a rubber stall mat to make a rubber cutting edge. keep you posted n the results
 
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Trustable

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Done’s anyone use skids on their blade like a walk behind snowblower has? Was gonna see if I can cobble together something. I have no welder so I’m limited but i figured it’s possible. That way I wouldn’t have to worry about messing up my already needung gravel driveway and just ride on top hopefully. I think it would work as th back blade I have is from an old 8n or 9n that’s super light and maybe just barely 5ft with an extension someone put on at some point.
 

jimh406

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Done’s anyone use skids on their blade like a walk behind snowblower has?
I don't. I have a Land Pride RB2684, btw. It weighs 396 according to the literature, and I use it with my QH15 which adds a bit more weight.
 
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Danl1957

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A plastic or rubber edge is a good idea. I have only a tiny bit of asphalt around my house, so not really needed by me. Fwiw, https://www.goodworkstractors.com/ sells both types of edges if you don't have a local supplier. They have a 10% off sale, too. It appears.
hi, good works tractors is a favorite site and i watch many of his youtube videos.
 

Mountainhill

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For the initial snow I pull the blade. Depending on how much snow, and how moist it is, will determine the best angle. For deep fresh snow, first pass I run with bucket down, just to clear extra snow.

For widening, and clean-up, especially, if snow has firmed up, you have two choices 1) push off with bucket and/or 2) widen and push off going in reverse. I can push a lot more snow in reverse and push if further back.
Take care when snow is frozen solid, I did break 3 point once, jamming blade into pile of snow. My fault!
 

Kubota Paul

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I've seen a few people say they reverse their rear blade for snow to keep from digging in to the driving surface. If you do or did, was there any issues?

I reversed mine just to look at it. I wondered if the bolts/nuts were damaged by this process. No, I haven't tried it yet. My road surfaces I will plow are primarily gravel.
I do 13 driveways with gravel. These are on the Lake Huron side. I use my blade backwards until i have a frozen base over the gravel. After that I use the front mount blower. Also fine it handy to back up to a garage door and pull the snow away from it
 
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IanB

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I don’t have any asphalt or paved driveways to deal with, so I don’t have any experience with them, but I would think it would be wise to have something softer than steel come in contact with the driveway surface.

I believe I’ve seen some people use rubber based horse mats from places like tractor supply, and cut them into strips for use between the back blade and the cutting edge that is bolted on, as an interface between the back blade and the driveway, so this is something you might consider.
I bought the horse stall mat and cut it into lengths to do this, but then tried the reversed rear blade on it's own 1st and it worked great as is. I drag the reversed blade angled so it makes windrows to my left, it packs and scrapes flat and smooth and leaves the gravel where it belongs for the most part. I drag it across my cement driveway apron with no damage to the concrete, not sure how I'd approach asphalt as I don't have any of that on site. I can then clean up the windrows with the front mount snowblower.
 
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Danl1957

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Hi all, thanks for all the advice in this thread, I am happy to report today with a light snow fall of 3 to 4 inches, using the rear blade backwards cleared the snow off a paved drive way with out any damage. Feeling very relieved.
 
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gssixgun

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Hi all, thanks for all the advice in this thread, I am happy to report today with a light snow fall of 3 to 4 inches, using the rear blade backwards cleared the snow off a paved drive way with out any damage. Feeling very relieved.

Light fluffy snow in Dec is practice for the wet heavy stuff later in the season LOL

I only use my BackBlade when we have breakup on the road, that 3" or so of base layer that lets loose usually the last week of Feb or the first week of Mar
It becomes frustrating deciding to run the blower and suck up gravel or switch to the blade and then get a foot of snow overnight and rain starting at 6 am ... I hate Spring hehehe

Yes running it backwards work pretty good !!!
 
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MarkL3010

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L3010DT
Jan 9, 2023
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I will push backwards most of the time. You still have to pull around garage doors and stuff.
Pushing doesn't tear the grass up. I'll push the snow off the drive onto the yard to keep more snow
from driffting. I have also made big piles of snow in the yard for the grandkids without hurting the grass.
 

jyoutz

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MX6000 HST open station, FEL, 6’ cutter, forks, 8’ rear blade, 7’ cultivator
Jan 14, 2019
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Reversing the blade is the easiest and best solution for plowing snow while avoiding damage to gravel, lawns, or anything. I also do this to grade and smooth gravel roads after the cutting is done to remove potholes.
 
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