D1302 gear case & governor R&R - L2250

[texasgeezer]

I need to change the gear cover on a L2250 with the D1302 engine. I'm concerned about messing with the governor assembly that seems to be partly mounted on this cover.

Any idea what I need to do or watch out for to make sure I remove & replace it properly.

The workshop manual doesn't seem to go into much detail.

 

[Stumpy]

Yeah, keep one hand on the compression release the first time you start it again! My dad told me once he accidentally installed the fuel rack 180 degrees out on a big 6cyl Caterpillar diesel so that when the governor was trying to give less fuel it was pushing in more. He thought it got up to 4-5000 before he caught the compression release. He then got the privilege of replacing the rod and main bearings without pay.

I've had the cover off my L175 (start at post #25) and it's not bad. If it's anything like mine you'll need to remove the governor plate just forward of the pump and the plate just below the pump on the right side of the engine. There are two springs in here you need to disconnect. Don't stretch the springs and you're good. It can be a little tricky to remove and reconnect the one that hooks to the bottom but a little ingenuity, a screw driver, and a pair of needle nose got the job done for me.

There is a spring loaded plunger on the cover itself, which I believe sets the idle speed but I haven't gotten around to adjusting it yet. You don't have to remove it but if you should you'll need to readjust it. The only other thing you may need to do is reseat the piece that connections the governor arm and fuel rack on the pump which can be done through the opening beneath and to the right of the pump.

My motor is a older simpler cousin of that power plant so your mileage may vary.

 

[texasgeezer]

Thanks, I should be able to look at it later today.

 

[texasgeezer]

A question about lower window/opening for spring access.

Is the fuel injection pump necessary to be removed to access the springs? From what little I've found it appears to be necessary.

Thanks.

 

[Stumpy]

Nope and I'd leave the pump in there unless you really need it out of the way. There are a series of shims under it that set the injection timing and it's very easy to bend and destroy them when you remove the pump. You can replace the shims but you've got to recheck the injection timing and it's a pain.

You can actually access both of them from the opening under the governor plate. It's just easier to get the second one from the panel on the side the engine below the pump. Also the rod that hooks into the fuel rack can pop out when removing those springs and you can check/pop it back in through that panel.

Also another fellow told me what that spring loaded plunger in the cover actually does. It control the amount of fuel injected per throttle setting, functionally similar to adjusting the needles rich or lean on a carburetor.

Matt