current dump trailer reviews

sg5054

New member

Equipment
L2250
Nov 3, 2016
21
0
1
Dresden, ME
I would like to hear from the group about dump trailers. After searching the forums the comments are all a bit dated. I have a L2250 and will be buying a low profile 16ft trailer. I have Big Tex, PJ, Bri Mar, Cam and Sure Trac all available to me. Some I would have to travel a bit to buy.
I won't be trailering the tractor alot but do want to be able to move it when needed. With 37 acres I see the versatility of a dump far outweighing a landscape style.
Tractor is 13 ft with the loader and weight box. Truck is a 98 Dodge 2500 4wd, Cummins and 5 spd, rated at 16000 GVW so towing isn't an issue.
So, what's hot and what's not out there?
 

Greenhead

Member

Equipment
L4400, MX5100
Oct 13, 2014
193
0
16
Fond du Lac, WI
They are handy, but they are heavy. Your Dodge will handle it with trailer brakes. I have had a PJ. I like the scissors lift. I feel they are more stable with less twisting opposed to dual rams when dumping.
 

alansz400

New member

Equipment
B7500. FEL, Piranha tooth bar, box scraper, post hole digger, 3 pt. bucket
Oct 26, 2013
265
0
0
Loudonville OHIO
I bought a Big Tex a few years ago and its been great. I pull it with a F250 with a Power Stroke. Mine is also the scissors lift and I am glad it went that route. They seem to hold there resale value well so if you don't like it after a few years it should be easy to sell.
 

sg5054

New member

Equipment
L2250
Nov 3, 2016
21
0
1
Dresden, ME
The Big Tex dealer in NH has a 16LX for 7895. Tarp, 110v charger, 7ft ramps and scissor lift included plus the 3 year warranty. Very tempting.. 3 hr drive though...

Alan, Very impressed with your metal work. I just may have "borrow" a few of your ideas.
 

Tooljunkie

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
L1501,home built carry all, mini plow blade.
May 13, 2014
4,150
27
48
59
Lac Du Bonnet, Manitoba,Canada
Scissor lift is my preference, seems the dump box goes more vertical. Add a quick connect power point and plug it in for dumping making it less of a hassle for charging. I really want one, thinking on building to suit my needs.
 

eipo

Active member

Equipment
L4060
Dec 1, 2015
693
81
28
MI
If you are going to go 16' long, its needs to have jacks on the back for loading and unloading. 16' puts a bit of stress on the frame behind the axles when using the ramps.

Heres one where you can see they are built into the corners of the trailer...




Other than that..... Not much to add. They are handy to have.
 

alansz400

New member

Equipment
B7500. FEL, Piranha tooth bar, box scraper, post hole digger, 3 pt. bucket
Oct 26, 2013
265
0
0
Loudonville OHIO
I like having the ramps under the trailer on the rear. I see some with the ramps hanging on the side and if they are as heavy as mine there is no way I want to lift them and carry them to the side. Only down side is the hinges on the ramp doors need oiled once in awhile to keep them working. Out of sight for thieves under there also.
 

KuB2650

New member
May 11, 2016
19
0
0
42
NEPA
We have a Chubbs Steel and its been a great trailer. We use it everyday in a commercial setting. We haul our TLB to jobs and every kind of material imaginable. Our is 14K GVWR, twin cylinder, ramps on the side. As far as the twin cylinder vs scissor hoist goes, I have yet to have a load that it would not dump and it has no twist when up. The cylinders are 3.5" diameter with 2.5" rods, not sure of the stroke but the bed goes up nice and high. The ONLY complaint I have is the ramps over the fenders, they are 125 lbs each and it is exhausting carrying them back and forth, but we do it daily.
 

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RichM752

New member

Equipment
L47TLB
Feb 28, 2017
40
0
0
Mount Shasta CA
I had a 12 ft, 14k PJ, sold it last year for $1000 less than I paid. Bought another PJ, 14ft low pro 14k. The extra two feet allowed me to load my L3400 with attachment. Sold the L3400 a few weeks ago and got a L47TLB. Not a lot of room inside, but it works.
 
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sg5054

New member

Equipment
L2250
Nov 3, 2016
21
0
1
Dresden, ME
Just talked to a load trail dealer, said 8500 +/-. He's sending a quote over.
Thanks for the tip on the rear jacks. I'll remember that one.
The LT sounds like it has comparable std equip to the big tex. Ramps underneath for me as well. I carry enough heavy stuff around as it is. I'll pass on lugging the ramps.
 
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RichM752

New member

Equipment
L47TLB
Feb 28, 2017
40
0
0
Mount Shasta CA
Paid $8500 for my 14' PJ Low Pro.
Included in price - 12" o.c. cross members, rear jacks, 12 k jack, 2 extra d rings, arctic wiring harness, and tarp kit.
 

alansz400

New member

Equipment
B7500. FEL, Piranha tooth bar, box scraper, post hole digger, 3 pt. bucket
Oct 26, 2013
265
0
0
Loudonville OHIO
Interesting. I try and keep my dump trailer out of the salt. My favorite landscape trailer was built out of 2 inch box steel and one day one of the rails broke off. Turns out the whole frame was rusting from the inside out. I drilled a few small holes in my dump trailer frame and put used oil in the box frame until it ran out the other end. Not sure if it will help but sure can't hurt.
 
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flyidaho

Active member

Equipment
L 3301 HST
Feb 28, 2017
420
219
43
IDAHO
I just stumbled upon this thread, thanks to the search function, good timing. I loaded my new L 3301 for the first time yesterday onto my 12' dump trailer. It has the ramps (12" wide x 5' long, making for a pretty decent approach angle but a need to keep it centered up pretty good) stowed out of sight underneath, and it's real easy to slide them out. You never pick the full weight of them, about as simple as it gets. I gave some thought as to "seat belt or not", when driving up the first time, then forgot all about it anyway and just took it slow and easy, no problem. I have yet to back it down however! I may end up fabbing some wider 16" ramps, that would require a total redo of the storage area underneath but that is doable. Or, I may make 2 more ramps 4" wide and lay them along side the current ones, but then I'd have to find a place to haul them, above the fenders would work. Best to just suck it up and use the current ones as is and be careful, I'll get a better feel for it after a few more times. :eek: I have not yet read all the threads on this subject, but right now I am assuming you guys are using your dump bed trailers for also hauling your tractors?

I too went with the dump bed type after looking at all kinds of car haulers and tilt beds. The people I sold my old B 2105 to had a tilt bed and man was it easy to load! But it's a one trick pony....the dump (10,000 GVW in my case, about 6500 payload) function opens up endless opportunities. I paid 6K for it, brand new, from a local trailer outfit that has used my crane service in the past twice, so I wanted to give them my business. It has the single ram, I didn't even know about the scissor type, oh well, seems to work fine. But, as a test I let it down after raising it a few inches, with the tractor loaded, and it comes down way too fast, with a bang. So, I'll do the same thing I did on the dump bed I made for my 1 ton truck, put a valve in the return line so I can control the rate of descent when loaded, it's a nice feature to have though it may be little used.

My "plan", such as it is, is to carry the tractor with the loader arms resting on the front sideboard, today I am bolting a wood wear pad down on the sideboard top rail to protect it and the arms. The tractor frame will be chained on 4 corners to the built in bed hooks of the trailer, and I'll also throw a strap binder around the loader arms. I may or may not take off the bucket first, and carry it in the truck bed, so far I seem to have plenty of room between it and my truck's lumber rack. In this pic I still had the snow blower on, and you can see it stick outs the rear, I figure to simply bungee or tie the doors up tight against any protruding implement and put a red flag on it. Maybe a slow moving vehicle triangle for good measure! Around these parts farm related equipment gets a lot of leeway from LEO, I stay on secondary roads, and doubt I'll have any issues. With NO implement on the rear, I'll be able to close the doors. In any event, my short trips with this setup will all be on secondary roads at about 45 MPH.

Obviously I could have gotten a bigger tractor, but I like doing more with less, and I also keep all my stuff inside and out of the weather, (and drifting snow, if I leave anything out in the winter, forget about it until spring) and the overall 17' length will nicely fit in a pre determined area I have in an outbuilding. I like the way the center of gravity of the tractor is over the center of gravity of the trailer in this picture, it eyeballs "about right". The 3 ton+ payload is also more then adequate for my needs. My take on the rear stabilizers it has is not to avoid stressing the frame when loading (it should be able to take that just fine, if not we have a problem) but to enable loading to take place when the trailer is not hooked up to a vehicle. That's what my trailer sales guy said anyway, and how I plan to use it. I won't be messing them normally, when hooked up.

The side boards are robust enough, that I can see in a pinch that if I have a weird, bulky that is, type load, like the big solar arrays I weld up and deliver (a sideline biz), that are 10' by 20' long but only about 1100 lbs., I may just set them on the (padded/wear protected) sideboard top rails, we'll see. Right now I have a custom trailer just for that use, but I could get rid of it if the new trailer worked out for that purpose. I'll post again after I get a bit more experience with it, I have a safe (as in an old iron safe, not as in not dangerous) moving job in town to do next week, and that will be my first for real use of the whole new tractor transport concept. It has to be fairly hassle free to be practical, we'll see.
 

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sg5054

New member

Equipment
L2250
Nov 3, 2016
21
0
1
Dresden, ME
Thought it would be polite and update this.
I went with the N&N trailer. 14ft heavy duty series. Very pleased with it. It's heavy at 4K lbs but rated at 14K gross. Overall well put together. Only complaints I would have is that the tongue jack is right up at the very front of the tongue. The spare is right side mounted and does block the view of the rear of the trailer. I'll be moving that. With the truck and trailer dead in line the jack handle hits the back of the truck bed. I just have to angle the truck a bit to the starboard to get the clearance needed. It tows very nice. Put it right to work. Last Saturday I moved 5yds of loam, 3 ton of 3/4 crushed rock, a full load of oak firewood and my jeep wrangler with it's 6 ft plow. My back certainly appreciated it.
I will say one thing, it's big.
It came with a roll up tarp, rear jack stands, spare tire, on board charger, 2 way tail gate (barn door/top swing). Cost was 8499/ 9 out the door.
 

eipo

Active member

Equipment
L4060
Dec 1, 2015
693
81
28
MI
I would be interested in seeing some pics if you find the time. No biggie if you don't. Sounds like a nice unit.
 

maclean

New member

Equipment
BX25D
Jun 25, 2014
242
3
0
Lowell, Or
Home made. Cheaper. Tougher.


Cleaning up our national forest...say thank you to the tweaker that filled a trailer with enough crap to fill my 18' trailer twice...
 
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