Couple of questions on service

burhead

New member
Aug 17, 2015
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sioux city ia
I just bought a used 4310. I want to change all the fluids so I know what I have. I went to the dealer and they sold me the 2 hydrualic filters, 1 oil filter and 10 gallons of UDT. I mentioned that I had several gallons of 15w40 rotella semi synth at home. He said that is fine, run any diesel specific oil but only run kubota UDT in the hydraulics. So I get home and realize that the manual calls for 10w40 in these temps. Crap! Winter is coming, will I be fine with the 15w40. Temps here can get down to zero. Tractor will be stored in a heated garage but will be used for snow removal. Did some searching and found the usual doom and gloom about what oil to use and not to use. Just want to make sure I am not making a big no no by running this oil in extreme cold.
 

85Hokie

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Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Jul 13, 2013
10,374
2,183
113
Bedford - VA
I just bought a used 4310. I want to change all the fluids so I know what I have. I went to the dealer and they sold me the 2 hydrualic filters, 1 oil filter and 10 gallons of UDT. I mentioned that I had several gallons of 15w40 rotella semi synth at home. He said that is fine, run any diesel specific oil but only run kubota UDT in the hydraulics. So I get home and realize that the manual calls for 10w40 in these temps. Crap! Winter is coming, will I be fine with the 15w40. Temps here can get down to zero. Tractor will be stored in a heated garage but will be used for snow removal. Did some searching and found the usual doom and gloom about what oil to use and not to use. Just want to make sure I am not making a big no no by running this oil in extreme cold.
here is the part of the statement that will save ya !!!!;)

In a heated garage ....... so lets say it is 5 degrees outside - your tractor will have a balmy temp of something like high 50s or better. Since it will ONLY get hotter - the cold will not be a problem since the oil will be "warm" once you start using it!

there is a difference between 10 weight and 15, but for your purpose there really is no reason to change over - the 15 will pour a little slower than the 10 - but at the startup ( were 90% of wear occurs) the oil is already "ok"

If you were to leave your tractor outside and the temps get down in the single digits - I would switch - even get 5 w .......

When winter hits, start your tractor - crack the garage door, let her warm up a bit, and then go for de snow!!!!

You could also get a block heater, but then again the whole garage is a heater!:D
 

burhead

New member
Aug 17, 2015
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sioux city ia
Thanks for the reply. Right after I typed the post, I went to the garage to round up the oil I thought I had. Turns out I only had 1 jug. Decided to run to the parts store and grab some full synth 5w. All is well. There is a chance that the tractor may sit a time or two outside, so this was for the best.

Now for my next question. I have a few hydraulic leaks that I noticed. One is from one of the larger lines coming off of the loader block and heading to the rear of the transmission case. It appears to be a simple fix and I'm sure it is just a few o rings to take care of it. The other is from a hard line on the side of the loader hydraulic block. The line is "z" shaped and is short and goes right into the side of the main tunnel. I'm unsure of how to remove that. There is a large drain plug on the bottom of the tractor, right behind the prop shaft. It has a sort of nipple coming off of it. Can't figure out if the oil is coming from that nipple or if it maybe needs a new washer. Anyone know what that drain is for? None of them are major but I am going to change the hydraulic fluid in the near future. I figured I should probably address these issues before I fill the system with brand new fluid.
 

85Hokie

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Equipment
BX-25D ,PTB. Under Armor, '90&'92-B7100HST's, '06 BX1850 FEL
Jul 13, 2013
10,374
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113
Bedford - VA
Shoot some pictures, and send them this way. They will help more than anything:)
 

burhead

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Aug 17, 2015
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sioux city ia
First photos is the drain plug. What does this drain? Second photo is the line coming off of the side of the block. Can't really tell how to remove it. Third pic is the line running to the rear at the trans. This one looks easy but I suspect I will lose the entire contents of the rear end.
 

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burhead

New member
Aug 17, 2015
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sioux city ia
I have been searching through all of the parts manuals trying to identify that pipe in the second photo. It comes off of the hydraulic pipe on the right hand side of the tractor, under the foot well. Does anyone know what this piece is called, how to remove it and how much fluid will be lost in the process?
 

zippyslug31

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L3901, LA525, BH77, 72" BB, old Ford 22-63 PHD
Jun 27, 2015
82
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Crooked River Ranch, Oregon
Not your model, but have you seen this video yet... it sure helped me when I did my service:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A6SchMXznjs
This is the tranmission "installment" of the series and should help you to drain the box.

Sorry, can't tell you anything about that particular hard line but once the box is drained you shouldn't have to worry about all the fluid dumping out on top of you.
 

SCPOret

New member

Equipment
B7510HSD, LA272 FEL, Mohawk Brave shredder, Modern rear blade
Jan 21, 2013
12
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Alvin, TX - USA
Shoot some pictures, and send them this way. They will help more than anything:)
if you don't have time or inclination for pictures go to http://www.kubota.com/part/parts.aspx.

at the bottom of the page go to illustrated parts then scroll down and accept the conditions. then scroll up and put in your tractor or loader number and look up your parts there. this will let you see all the parts and figure out if it's just o'rings or if you need to replace a line. Hopefully just o'rings.