Cause of Excessive Diesel knock found.

[JoBo]

I've owned my thirty some year old B5100E for two weeks and from the first I suspected the timing was too far advanced. At operating speed the knock was not apparent.
A week ago I verified that it was and started to adjust it with shims.
In the process between my old eyes and lacking a clear picture of what the control arm looks like I broke the control arm
That turned out to be a good thing except for the cost and time to get a replacement.
To replace the control arm the gear case cover has to be removed exposing the gears. Yesterday while cleaning the old gasket off the surface I rotated the engine to check the timing marks. To my surprise they never lined up
Looking at the "abridged" manual it shows 3 dots at the pump and idler gear, two dots on the cam and idler gear and one at the crank shaft. What it doesn't say is there's no dot on the crank but the mark on the flywheel should be on TDC and it does show the key in the crank pointing straight down.
The cam shaft and pump were both one tooth off toward advanced.

I hope there was no permanent damage done running like that and am anxiously waiting for the new control arm, gaskets and other parts.
The engine had a thick layer of dust and dirt and didn't look like it had been recently apart. I never would have suspected a timing gear problem.
Could this have been done deliberately for more power or something?

I'm now more then ever waiting to hear it purr.

Joe

 

[kubotasam]

Well that is certainly an interesting bit of information. No mark on the crank gear. I will make a little note on the side of the page in my manual just in case I need to remember this. Thanks

 

[Butch]

If per chance the engine still knocks (a loud metallic hammering sound) it could be an injector. They are noted for that! Keep us posted!

 

[JoBo]

This was an "interesting" situation. I determined that with the all the "dots in the right places" once you rotate the engine the crank has to turn over 138 times for all the dots to align again. That happens to be twice the number of teeth on the idler gear.
But looking at the key ways that are clearly shown the cam and pump point up and the one on the crank points down every other revolution like they should.
I added a 5th shim under the injection pump and it no longer pounds at idel just a diesel ping and the timing marks on the flywheel line up when they are supposed to.

Joe

 

[Butch]

This was an "interesting" situation. I determined that with the all the "dots in the right places" once you rotate the engine the crank has to turn over 138 times for all the dots to align again. That happens to be twice the number of teeth on the idler gear.
But looking at the key ways that are clearly shown the cam and pump point up and the one on the crank points down every other revolution like they should.
I added a 5th shim under the injection pump and it no longer pounds at idel just a diesel ping and the timing marks on the flywheel line up when they are supposed to.

Joe

What do the shims look like and how did you know to add and not remove them... just curious...

 

[chuffman]

JoBo:
Was there anything tricky about replacing the control arm? I broke the control arm on my L3000 DT and need to replace it. I welcome any advice I can get. I have a tiller attachment on the hitch and it is in the up position. My guess is I will have to find a way to get it down. Please advise.
Thanks.