New BX2680 w/FEL and 60" drive over deck. The loader came off easily. Now I need to get it dirty! Any RPM suggestions for break in?Bx2680
- Thread starter eddiebob
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New BX2680 w/FEL and 60" drive over deck. The loader came off easily. Now I need to get it dirty! Any RPM suggestions for break in?
Some say low and slow others like me say run it like you stole it,, probbly the best thing is to vary the RPM and be careful about lugging the motor down,,ie,, to low an RPM to do the job,, mowing is WOT, these motors have a lot of torque and will work pretty hard for you always remember to use enough RPM to do the job with out luggin it down,, NOW pictures my friend, we lovs hour tractor porn 
7milesup
New member
Equipment
BX2380 FEL, 54" MMM, 48" King Kutter, Fabricated land plane (it is awesome!).
According to the operating manual, page 42 it says... "Do not operate the tractor at full speed for the first 50 hours." It also says "not to start the tractor quickly or apply the brakes suddenly."
Some of the "Operating New Tractor" seems really bizarre to me. First of all, it might take me a year or more to get 50 hours on mine, or it might take 6 months, I don't know yet. Only had it a week but have a bout 4 hours on mine. And, what does applying the brakes suddenly have to do with breaking in the tractor since it is not a Nascar ride where the breaks need to be burned in a tad.
I mowed lawn the other day with it and I did not run it quite at full RPM, close, but not quite. I also have not worked it hard doing any loader work. Most of my loader work has been just pushing brush and moving firewood so nothing too strenous, and when doing that sort of work I have been running it at about 2500 rpm or so.
I think if you vary the RPM and don't work the snot out of it right away, it will be just fine.
Some of the "Operating New Tractor" seems really bizarre to me. First of all, it might take me a year or more to get 50 hours on mine, or it might take 6 months, I don't know yet. Only had it a week but have a bout 4 hours on mine. And, what does applying the brakes suddenly have to do with breaking in the tractor since it is not a Nascar ride where the breaks need to be burned in a tad.
I mowed lawn the other day with it and I did not run it quite at full RPM, close, but not quite. I also have not worked it hard doing any loader work. Most of my loader work has been just pushing brush and moving firewood so nothing too strenous, and when doing that sort of work I have been running it at about 2500 rpm or so.
I think if you vary the RPM and don't work the snot out of it right away, it will be just fine.
tcrote5516
New member
Equipment
BX1860, FEL, 50" Front Blower, Heated Cab, 6' blade, 3pt carry all, 3pt hitch
Well you really shouldn't need to operate at full rpm in the first 50. Hell, you may never operate at full throttle. I haven't in 350 hours. 2,800/2,900 has been plenty, no need to go north of 3,000 IMO.According to the operating manual, page 42 it says... "Do not operate the tractor at full speed for the first 50 hours." It also says "not to start the tractor quickly or apply the brakes suddenly."
Some of the "Operating New Tractor" seems really bizarre to me. First of all, it might take me a year or more to get 50 hours on mine, or it might take 6 months, I don't know yet. Only had it a week but have a bout 4 hours on mine. And, what does applying the brakes suddenly have to do with breaking in the tractor since it is not a Nascar ride where the breaks need to be burned in a tad.
I mowed lawn the other day with it and I did not run it quite at full RPM, close, but not quite. I also have not worked it hard doing any loader work. Most of my loader work has been just pushing brush and moving firewood so nothing too strenous, and when doing that sort of work I have been running it at about 2500 rpm or so.
I think if you vary the RPM and don't work the snot out of it right away, it will be just fine.
Brake operation has nothing to do with the brake components but with the HST. Slamming on the brake also means fluid that's flying through the HST drive motor has to come to an abrupt halt and causes a big burst of pressure.
When your mowing the lawn just keep varying the RPM. Not huge and not every 2 minutes but every 15 - 20 min make a couple of hundred RPM change from I'd say 2000 - 2800. This may be a little frustrating on the low end but these tractors still cut at a reasonable speed turning 2,000 rpm. The little hassle is worth the benefits of a motor with good compression IMO.
They don't put this stuff in the manual because they like to make you do tricks. There's a mechanical reason for it. Reminds me of a Tommy Boy line, "I can get a good look at a T-bone by sticking my head up a bull's ass, but I'd rather take a butcher's word for it". You can throw the book out and take your chances, you may be fine, but considering the investment I'd jump through the hoops as best you can.
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