BX25D instrument panel and water damage

cbaracuta

New member

Equipment
Bx25d
Jun 10, 2020
1
1
1
Mo
I think it's time to bite the bullet and get a new dash panel.

http://www.colemanequip.com/parts/KubotaParts/K2771-62510/
So my gauges quit working but the lights still worked. I read everything online and thankfully found this page. I checked all the fuses and grounds and nothing. So I ordered the new panel as last ditch effort. Turns out all the comments on this page were spot on. Previous owner left tractor outside all the time which did cause water damage. Even though I kept it in a building for the last 6 months there was still a lot of water that poured out when I took it out. Most the internal pieces were brown and corroding. The new panel slipped right in and everything works. So if your a bx owner and it gets rained on, you will likely need to replace the panel at some point in the future. Thank you to all on this thread, It will probably help a lot folks like me.
 
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cthomas

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
LX2610 HSDC
Jan 1, 2017
863
572
93
La Farge Wi
I had mine replaced under warranty twice. The Service Manager showed me the TSB(technical service bulletin) that was issued in late 2017. Supposedly Kubota fixed the issue from that point on. If it goes out again the Kubota area rep. might allow some money in goodwill.
 

Shadow Lee

New member

Equipment
BX25
Mar 5, 2021
3
0
1
Folsom, CA
Corrosion clobbered the instrument panel and mating connector beyond repair on my BX25. I ordered a new panel for $290 from Kubota and a new connector with 10 inches of leads (called a pigtail) from Findpigtails.com. Pigtail part number was F21B16 and it cost $80.

It took about two hours to splice in the new pigtail. I used two layers of heatshrink per connection.
Note that the connector terminals are referenced with numbers on the schematic but letters are used on the instrument panel.

I strongly suggest that you cut and splice one wire at a time as I had mediocre light so the colors below may be off!

I suggest that you cut off the four unused pigtail wires since they could be conneted to something in the panel.

Here's the wire colors and terminal (note that I had mediocre light):

Terminal
Position Color (yours may vary so again cut and splice one wire at a time!)

A -- empty (cut off pigtail wire)
B -- RED/GRN
C -- BRN/GRY
D -- BLU (connector locking tab at this location)
E -- GRN (connector locking tab at this location)
F -- empty (cut off pigtail wire)
G -- BLU/RED
H -- WHT/RED

J -- RED/YEL
K -- empty (cut off pigtail wire)
M -- RED/WHT
N -- WHT/BLU
P -- YEL/GRN
Q -- empty (cut off pigtail wire)
S -- BLK
 

GeoHorn

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
M4700DT, LA1002FEL, Ferguson5-8B Compactor-Roller, 10KDumpTrailer, RTV-X900
May 18, 2018
5,579
2,947
113
Texas
Bought a 2013 bx2370 to replace my 2002 bx2200. 2370 tach and hour meter not working. Took instrument cluster apart and found corrosion on the tach drive. Bought and installed new cluster.

Now when the key is switched on, the tach does its exercise from zero to max and falls back to zero as the panel boots up (old one never moved). Crank it up and tach reads zero and hour meter stays on 0.0 hours.

Checked for corrosion at the 16 pins... none. Checked for corrosion at three pin connector on alternator and it had some. Treated with corrosion - x to no avail.

Q) I saw where pin 15 is 12v power? (Pin 1-8 on top row, left to right looking from front of tractor / rear of cluster?)

Q) What sends the signal to the tach?

Q) What sends the signal to the hour meter to start the clock?

Any help appreciated...very frustrated at the moment.
I’m not knowlegeable about this particular model (BX2013) but many machines have their tach and hour-meters powered by the alternator. (I have a JD4329 engine which has a troublesome alternator/regulator which will not produce current until RPM is raised above idle...then it will work at all RPMs once its been activated by the increase in RPM.... When that alternator comes on-line.... ONLY THEN will the tach, hour meter, ammeter, etc. provide indications.)
 

Wiz

New member
Jun 9, 2018
11
2
3
Dover, NH
My new panel fro
Corrosion clobbered the instrument panel and mating connector beyond repair on my BX25. I ordered a new panel for $290 from Kubota and a new connector with 10 inches of leads (called a pigtail) from Findpigtails.com. Pigtail part number was F21B16 and it cost $80.

It took about two hours to splice in the new pigtail. I used two layers of heatshrink per connection.
Note that the connector terminals are referenced with numbers on the schematic but letters are used on the instrument panel.

I strongly suggest that you cut and splice one wire at a time as I had mediocre light so the colors below may be off!

I suggest that you cut off the four unused pigtail wires since they could be conneted to something in the panel.

Here's the wire colors and terminal (note that I had mediocre light):

Terminal
Position Color (yours may vary so again cut and splice one wire at a time!)

A -- empty (cut off pigtail wire)
B -- RED/GRN
C -- BRN/GRY
D -- BLU (connector locking tab at this location)
E -- GRN (connector locking tab at this location)
F -- empty (cut off pigtail wire)
G -- BLU/RED
H -- WHT/RED

J -- RED/YEL
K -- empty (cut off pigtail wire)
M -- RED/WHT
N -- WHT/BLU
P -- YEL/GRN
Q -- empty (cut off pigtail wire)
S -- BLK
My new panel from Messicks came with the pigtail. I didn't use it because I would have had to find the other end down by the engine.