Yeah, pretty much goes without saying, but i think most would understand what i was referring to.
BX23S Shims = More Pressure - Better/Worse?
- Thread starter BX23S-1
- Start date
UPDATE:
So we had a chance today to run the BX23S with the added shim that got us to 1850psi. I went into it not expecting a huge amount of difference, because it wasnt. From what i could see, i dont think it was really that great of an improvement if hardly any at all. If i had to give my advice on doing it again, go do it if you think its going to make you that much happier, just dont expect lolly pops and unicorns to jump out and parade around your tractor after you do it. Do i feel it was a waste of time? No! It gave me peace of mind to know what the pressure was running at. The $77 for the whole kit in a nice storage box was worth having.
So we had a chance today to run the BX23S with the added shim that got us to 1850psi. I went into it not expecting a huge amount of difference, because it wasnt. From what i could see, i dont think it was really that great of an improvement if hardly any at all. If i had to give my advice on doing it again, go do it if you think its going to make you that much happier, just dont expect lolly pops and unicorns to jump out and parade around your tractor after you do it. Do i feel it was a waste of time? No! It gave me peace of mind to know what the pressure was running at. The $77 for the whole kit in a nice storage box was worth having.
shiraz627
Member
Equipment
BX23S Piranha toothbar, Underarmor, PFL1242 pallet forks, BXpanded thumb, ripper
Did you measure the pressure at the power beyond port at the rear of the machine? I'm at 1850 and the machine performs well.
I measured it at the FEL loader manifold. (instructions said use coupler closest to the treadle pedal)
I also checked it at the rear of the tractor, was no difference in pressure. 1850psi both places.
Hmmm. Unless somethign is being used, like raising or lowering the bucket or 3PH, I would think the pressure should be equal throughout the system.
Thats what i saw when i tested different ports. They all read the same on my gauge anyway.
Makes sense to me. I"m no expert on hydraulics, but this is basic fluid mechanics. If there is no flow, the pressure should equalize. When fluid is flowing, restrictions can create pressure differences, but static pressure should be the same everywhere.
I'm pretty intrigued by the pressure boost, just a little more wouldn't hurt and I'm thinking of calcium filling the deep lug tires for the winter to offset the increased performance.
Is there a Kubota part number or instruction for this change?
I've got a BX23 and could use a little more lift on the FEL and Backhoe...
Having said that, now that I'm 60, I tend to be more cautious than at 20!
greg
Is there a Kubota part number or instruction for this change?
I've got a BX23 and could use a little more lift on the FEL and Backhoe...
Having said that, now that I'm 60, I tend to be more cautious than at 20!
greg
After a year, my BX23S was at 1650. Shimmed to 1850. Put about 200 hours on it since then. Only saw the difference in the backhoe. With the SSQA mount and my BXpanded bucket teeth weighing 45 pounds, the loader will never have the breakout force I was used to with my previous B machine. But I didnt buy a BX for its loader capabilities...
Kubota tractors use an open center system and unless a valve is operated to activate something, the fluid flows in an open circuit and with minimal restriction, and pressure will be low throughout the system. I suppose from a practical perspective it could be considered equal, but would not really be in the theoretical sense, since there would be some pressure drop throughout the loop.
When a valve is shifted and flow is directed at a cylinder(s) doing some work, the pressure in the loop up to the control valve(and on to the cylinders doing the work) will all be the same once the flow stops and the pressure relief valve activates. After the control valve, the remaining circuit pressure would reduce to essentially zero.
If there are other valves down (or up) stream from the one that is operated, and they are operated at the same time, things can get interesting.
Just splitting hairs here I suppose...
What kind of differences did you see with the backhoe. I dont have mine on the tractor right now, so i`m curious. I can`t imagine that huge of a difference. What does amaze me though, is the amount of people trying to overwork these little tractors. They are already maxed out as it is for what they are. When we bought our BX23s, we went into it knowing that these sub-compacts are very limited. But they sure as hell beat the hell out of a sears or lowes lawn mower...lol.
Greg,
call Mike at botaproducts, the guy is amazing with the knowledge he has. Super nice guy, you`ll enjoy talking to him. He`s a busy guy, so you may have to wait for him to call you back. He sells the pressure kits for the BX tractors, he can set you right up with the right pressure, shims, and gauge to test it. He includes good easy to read and understandable instructions in the kit. Mike puts the kit in a really nice storage box too. I`ll post his website below. When you get to his website, his phone number is at the top right hand side of the home website page.
Hi Gents, The shim kit did wonders!
I'm thinking I might back it off a little for my guys (be safe rather than sorry). Went from 1740 psi to 1850-1900 psi and where the little guy could not lift his own front wheels with FEL, now it's a snap...at half throttle.
I can't really test it without the weight of the backhoe to balance but think the modification was excellent.
Now I just got to add some ballast and/or space those rear tires to improve stability, do you think it's a bad idea to add 2" spacers to the rear tires? The manual seems to warn against it, I'm only in 4 wheel drive with rear posi locked on occasion (soft dirt).
Going to the tires forum to ask about rimguard or calcium fill...
Thanks for your patience,
All good!
greg
Greg,
Sounds great, glad it worked out for you.
About your tires:
Stay away from calcium, it will rot your wheels. And dont fill them above 3/4 full with fluid. The tires still need flexibility, especially if you run the backhoe on it.
This is the stuff that i was told by my dealer that they put in mine
Rim Guard - The Original Liquid Tire Ballast
Rim Guard is a liquid tire ballast that maximizes pulling power, improves lifting performance, and reduces the risk of tipping.
www.rimguardsolutions.com
Wheel spacers:
Lots of guys run wheel spacers. If you dont have a mid mount mowing deck, the 2in spacers should work. I`m not a fan of wheel spacers just for the simple reason is that i run the 48in box blade on mine. I dont want the tires out that far. I`d rather keep the tire tracks inside the width of my box blade. Other than that, i have no problem with wheel spacers. They are pricey, so shop around. Some of the guys here can probably tell you the best ones to buy for your money.
Last edited:
Sounds good and thanks!Greg,
Sounds great, glad it worked out for you.
About your tires:
Stay away from calcium, it will rot your wheels. And dont fill them above 3/4 full with fluid. The tires still need flexibility, especially if you run the backhoe on it.
This is the stuff that i was told by my dealer that they put in mine
Rim Guard - The Original Liquid Tire Ballast
Rim Guard is a liquid tire ballast that maximizes pulling power, improves lifting performance, and reduces the risk of tipping.
Wheel spacers:
Lots of guys run wheel spacers. If you dont have a mid mount mowing deck, the 2in spacers should work. I`m not a fan of wheel spacers just for the simple reason is that i run the 48in box blade on mine. I dont want the tires out that far. I`d rather keep the tire tracks inside the width of my box blade. Other than that, i have no problem with wheel spacers. They are pricey, so shop around. Some of the guys here can probably tell you the best ones to buy for your money.
armylifer
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
BX1860, FEL, RCK54P MMM, BB1548 Box Scraper, Quick Hitch, Piranha Bar, BX6315
You could get 1.25" spacers and still be just less than the 48" box blade. That extra inch and a half on each side does make a difference in stability. You can get them on Amazon for $41.99 for the pair. Here is a link if you are interested.Greg,
Sounds great, glad it worked out for you.
About your tires:
Stay away from calcium, it will rot your wheels. And dont fill them above 3/4 full with fluid. The tires still need flexibility, especially if you run the backhoe on it.
This is the stuff that i was told by my dealer that they put in mine
Rim Guard - The Original Liquid Tire Ballast
Rim Guard is a liquid tire ballast that maximizes pulling power, improves lifting performance, and reduces the risk of tipping.
Wheel spacers:
Lots of guys run wheel spacers. If you dont have a mid mount mowing deck, the 2in spacers should work. I`m not a fan of wheel spacers just for the simple reason is that i run the 48in box blade on mine. I dont want the tires out that far. I`d rather keep the tire tracks inside the width of my box blade. Other than that, i have no problem with wheel spacers. They are pricey, so shop around. Some of the guys here can probably tell you the best ones to buy for your money.
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