BX23S Hydraulic gauge permanent hook up

[gjjb]

Hi folks - new here.

I've got a quick connect gauge and can use that, but I'm thinking of installing some way to have a constant gauge to monitor.

Anybody done this or aware of kits, and best places to connect this?

I'm more interested for troubleshooting during use when something seems off, so rather than a constant gauge I'd lean towards a tee / hose / QD female setup, and then I can just plug in my QD test gauge when needed. I prefer that over disconnecting the manifold to just test one thing.

Just looking for guidance on best place to Tee into, and consideration for the hose run needed to have it visible from driver position.

It's a 2018 BX23S

Thanks kindly in advance,
Jerry

 

[TheOldHokie]

Hi folks - new here.

I've got a quick connect gauge and can use that, but I'm thinking of installing some way to have a constant gauge to monitor.

Anybody done this or aware of kits, and best places to connect this?

I'm more interested for troubleshooting during use when something seems off, so rather than a constant gauge I'd lean towards a tee / hose / QD female setup, and then I can just plug in my QD test gauge when needed. I prefer that over disconnecting the manifold to just test one thing.

Just looking for guidance on best place to Tee into, and consideration for the hose run needed to have it visible from driver position.

It's a 2018 BX23S

Thanks kindly in advance,
Jerry

There are lots of options for location depending on what you want to measure. As for what you need - a suitable tee and a gauge.

Having done this I will say you wont get much of value out for the time and money spent. Pressure will be all over the place in normal operation. Better off putting in some test points that you can use if you really need to diagnose the system.

Dan

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

I looked into this and did not find such a kit. Respecting @TheOldHokie's opinion, I want to know how much strain I'm putting the hydraulics under since I tend to do crazy [unadvised] stuff.

I plumbed up a Flat-Face Tee with Male on one side, Female on the other (so it can move between any lines), and the third leg goes to a Flat-Face-hose-Flat-Face so the hose is optional and can be replaced w/any length hose (as long as you have one). With gauge they run about $250 each (I made two, one digital and oil-filled analog).

Is it worth it? Well, if it saves me from messing up the OEM valving by showing me I'm doing something really wrong, then yes.

 

[TheOldHokie]

I looked into this and did not find such a kit. Respecting @TheOldHokie's opinion, I want to know how much strain I'm putting the hydraulics under since I tend to do crazy [unadvised] stuff.

I plumbed up a Flat-Face Tee with Male on one side, Female on the other (so it can move between any lines), and the third leg goes to a Flat-Face-hose-Flat-Face so the hose is optional and can be replaced w/any length hose (as long as you have one). With gauge they run about $250 each (I made two, one digital and oil-filled analog).

Is it worth it? Well, if it saves me from messing up the OEM valving by showing me I'm doing something really wrong, then yes.

View attachment 166365

The OEM relief valve(s) prevent you from overpowering the hydraulic system. All a gauge will tell you is when they are called into action.

A an

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

The OEM relief valve(s) prevent you from overpowering the hydraulic system. All a gauge will tell you is when they are called into action.

A an

From what I understand, I've definitely found ways to far exceed relief valves. "Never underestimate the incongruity* of a determined man."

To pick up some of those rock parts I'd pull them to a balance point so the tractor could curl them, then back off the balance point and tractor them to their new home, slowly, as to not bounce the hydraulics and pop something. It was well beyond what curl would do. I just wasn't able to measure the level of my stupidity.

*ingenuity, but I like my version better.

 

[TheOldHokie]

From what I understand, I've definitely found ways to far exceed relief valves. "Never underestimate the incongruity* of a determined man."

To pick up some of those rock parts I'd pull them to a balance point so the tractor could curl them, then back off the balance point and tractor them to their new home, slowly, as to not bounce the hydraulics and pop something. It was well beyond what curl would do. I just wasn't able to measure the level of my stupidity.

*ingenuity, but I like my version better.

And what did your gauge tell you that common sense did not? The onlyvthing under but pressure was the base end of the cylinder and the hose. Thr only thing that might pop is that hose.

Dan

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

And what did your gauge tell you that common sense did not?

With the failure x2 of drilling the well and success of putting the gas line in there wasn't time to really test the digital gauge in real-world use, but from brief testing it looks way off, which is why I ordered parts for a second tee to plumb the digital and analog in the same circuit. I didn't have the in-line setup when finding out the rock shards were bigger than expected, though that "job on a tight timeline" was what prompted me to go overboard on gauges (and pull stupid stunts in the first place).

 

[gjjb]

This is all great feedback and valid points. No gauge will tell me my intake strainer might be getting restricted (that's a speed / cavitation symptom), but if nothing more then curiosity to make decisions on tuning if needed I was curious as to the way to go about it. I agree that as a dynamic measure the bouncing won't be much value under operation, but we all load our buckets to the point of having to let some out in order to lift at all, and if I understood (or could see with a QD Tee female for my test gauge), then I might see either degredation over time or that I have room to boost the pressure. With the 4-port quick manifold, I'm basically doing aa service check and not a convenient in the moment check.

Because the loader comes off in the winter for the snow blower it needs to be off of the tractor proper. And I leave the backhoe on in the winter, though only use it for removing iced mounds. Maybe an extension hose with male and female QD ends is the answer... I can just tie into a BH port and have the gauge on my roll-over bar for a quick in-use loader check.

Maybe I'm being silly and just wanting to have more Intel on the spot.

I like some of the suggestions on that online Ted though.

Great engagement on my first post, So i thank you guys all for that!

 

[TheOldHokie]

This is all great feedback and valid points. No gauge will tell me my intake strainer might be getting restricted (that's a speed / cavitation symptom), but if nothing more then curiosity to make decisions on tuning if needed I was curious as to the way to go about it. I agree that as a dynamic measure the bouncing won't be much value under operation, but we all load our buckets to the point of having to let some out in order to lift at all, and if I understood (or could see with a QD Tee female for my test gauge), then I might see either degredation over time or that I have room to boost the pressure. With the 4-port quick manifold, I'm basically doing aa service check and not a convenient in the moment check.

Because the loader comes off in the winter for the snow blower it needs to be off of the tractor proper. And I leave the backhoe on in the winter, though only use it for removing iced mounds. Maybe an extension hose with male and female QD ends is the answer... I can just tie into a BH port and have the gauge on my roll-over bar for a quick in-use loader check.

Maybe I'm being silly and just wanting to have more Intel on the spot.

I like some of the suggestions on that online Ted though.

Great engagement on my first post, So i thank you guys all for that!

If you put the tee on the main pump outlet you can see most everything of interest. But diagnosis of the cause of lost pressure will require additional test points.

I recommend you ditch quick connects and install male JIC tees eith caps for your tedt points. Put a hose with a JIC female swivel on the gauge.

Dan

 

[WI_Hedgehog]

If you put the tee on the main pump outlet you can see most everything of interest. But diagnosis of the cause of lost pressure will require additional test points.

I recommend you ditch quick connects and install male JIC tees eith caps for your tedt points. Put a hose with a JIC female swivel on the gauge.

Dan

That quick swivel alone is $70 single-plane, $120 dual-plane, which is why I used a 90°.

Shouldn't any sort of back-pressure on the attachment be blocked by the valve and not seen at the pump output? And where do I get that tiny hydraulic hose? I can only find 1/4" hose.

 

[TheOldHokie]

That quick swivel alone is $70 single-plane, $120 dual-plane, which is why I used a 90°.

Shouldn't any sort of back-pressure on the attachment be blocked by the valve and not seen at the pump output? And where do I get that tiny hydraulic hose? I can only find 1/4" hose.

When a valve is shifted pressure at the workport is the same as at the pump and relief valves.

When a valve is in neutral any work port pressure is contained in the cylinder and hose.

I dont know what swivel you are talking about.