BX FEL question

OrangeBX

Member

Equipment
Bx2680 FEL, MMM 60", EA 5' rear blade, lp ph10 auger, 50" tiller
Apr 24, 2016
45
3
8
North of Zachary, La
"80" series BX FEL question

Hello,
I have a bx 2680 with an FEL, MMM, and a couple of other implements. My concern/question is regarding the removal/attachment of the loader. When removing my loader, the instructions say for one step of the process, " press the lever to down position until the wheels come off the ground slightly". or something very close to that. Well lately, mine will only raise enough to barely get the wheels off the ground, or enough to be able to turn the wheels, but with rubber still slightly touching the concrete. I seem to recall early on (less than a year old, so it's really still early on), the wheels would come right up off the ground with the bucket flat. Rolling to dump lifts it with no problem, and I'm kind of using that (dump) the last couple of times as a work around. It's definitely still under warranty.

What do y'all think? Are there any "swift-tach" owners out there with similar behavior by their loaders? Is it normal?
 
Last edited:

skeets

Well-known member

Equipment
BX 2360 /B2601
Oct 2, 2009
14,213
2,872
113
SW Pa
how many hours on the little beasty? Have you checked the hydro level? Changed hydro filter? check all the simple stuff first, you might just have an air bubble in the line
 

dirtydeed

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
B2650 BH77, U27-4R2, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
Dec 8, 2017
2,902
3,257
113
Wind Gap, PA
Hello,
Rolling to dump lifts it with no problem, and I'm kind of using that (dump) the last couple of times as a work around. It's definitely still under warranty.

What do y'all think? Are there any "swift-tach" owners out there with similar behavior by their loaders? Is it normal?
This is the correct method...have the loader in the dump (slightly) position before attempting to lift the wheels off. You are doing it correctly.

See here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oo9zBK7421g
 

OrangeBX

Member

Equipment
Bx2680 FEL, MMM 60", EA 5' rear blade, lp ph10 auger, 50" tiller
Apr 24, 2016
45
3
8
North of Zachary, La
Yes sir, all of the above, including the screen, which was really clean compared to most folks', at around 60+ hrs. I have 100 on the little beast now. It is that too!
All other loader functions seem good. As far as I know, to rid the system of bubbles, you simply cycle through your hydraulic functions. I keep the faces of the couplers clean as well. What I haven't checked, is whether it will raise the tractor when, say tamping down a brush pile or something that is higher than ground level. Come to think of it, I've only removed and re attached two times since then, so it does seem concurrent with the fluid changes. There is no leakage on the shop floor.
Thanks,
Dave B

P.S. I posted before I read your reply Mr. Deed.
 

Willie1

New member

Equipment
BX2370
Apr 17, 2015
14
10
3
Bruceton Mills, WV
If you have the parking brake set when trying to raise the front up, the rear wheels are locked making it much harder to raise the front off of the ground. As the front lifts, the rears become a pivot point and need to rotate.
Just something to check.
 

OrangeBX

Member

Equipment
Bx2680 FEL, MMM 60", EA 5' rear blade, lp ph10 auger, 50" tiller
Apr 24, 2016
45
3
8
North of Zachary, La
I frankly would rather have had the pins and individual hydraulic lines than the all at the same time flat faced coupler of the "swift-tach" of the BX**80 series tractor.
 

OrangeBX

Member

Equipment
Bx2680 FEL, MMM 60", EA 5' rear blade, lp ph10 auger, 50" tiller
Apr 24, 2016
45
3
8
North of Zachary, La
If you have the parking brake set when trying to raise the front up, the rear wheels are locked making it much harder to raise the front off of the ground. As the front lifts, the rears become a pivot point and need to rotate.
Just something to check.
I can almost guarantee that the brake is locked during the process, so if that is the case/cause, I will have to further flatten my forehead with the palm of my hand!
Thanks,
DB

I'll be going up to house now from work and checking that. I'll be lettin' y'all know if that's what it is.
 
Last edited:

dalola

Member

Equipment
BX2380 w/FEL & Woods RM48 RFM, Yazoo/Kees Max2 ZTR
Jun 30, 2017
316
6
18
Ohio
You also need your engine RPM's up from idle, at least 1800, to raise the front. At least in the case of my 2380, it won't do it at idle, but no problem at 1800 & up.
 

OrangeBX

Member

Equipment
Bx2680 FEL, MMM 60", EA 5' rear blade, lp ph10 auger, 50" tiller
Apr 24, 2016
45
3
8
North of Zachary, La
I didn't get a chance to make it to the shop/tractor barn this evening. I'll report back though. I'm not going to post a question then disappear, like I've seen so many times.
Thanks for all the responses,
DB
 

dirtydeed

Well-known member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
B2650 BH77, U27-4R2, BX23TLBM, box blade, rear blade, flail mower, Stump Grinder
Dec 8, 2017
2,902
3,257
113
Wind Gap, PA
click the messick's video link i posted in the first reply. you'll see that its much easier to remove the loader when the bucket is in semi-dump position. then pull pins and roll bucket to level cutting position to disengage from the loader posts.
 

Kubota Pilot

New member
Aug 21, 2018
7
0
1
Prescott, Az
I would like to know if its the brake too...I have the same issue where the wheels don't come off or very little. Mine has 20 hrs on it, and always have the RPM up to 1800 or slightly more when I do this.
 

JeepinMaxx

Member
Lifetime Member

Equipment
BX2660, LA243 FEL, RCK54P-23BX MMM, BX2751 QH Subframe, BX2750D 50" Blower
Mar 27, 2018
296
8
18
Columbia, CT
Thanks for the video link! I followed that video and remove my FEL for the 1st time ever today! I've had the tractor since March and put 75 hrs on it since then... Took 5 minutes



Looks naked without it, but will be a bit easier to mow with now!

 

OrangeBX

Member

Equipment
Bx2680 FEL, MMM 60", EA 5' rear blade, lp ph10 auger, 50" tiller
Apr 24, 2016
45
3
8
North of Zachary, La
I would like to know if its the brake too...I have the same issue where the wheels don't come off or very little. Mine has 20 hrs on it, and always have the RPM up to 1800 or slightly more when I do this.
Mine does the same as Kubota Pilot's description. During operation today, I made sure the the brake was off for testing. the results were very similar, though the loader did get the wheels barely off the ground. When removing the loader, you put the bucket pivot pin at the same height as the loader arm pivot pin , then
roll the bucket to the dump position to approximately 20 degrees to the ground. So when lowered to the ground the angle with the ground increases to around 45
deg. It is at this angle that you are supposed to lift the front of the (tiny) tractor up. so yes this occurs with the bucket positioned as described. If you have to tilt the bucket further, the process gets sketchy. Anyway I did test the lifting (downward pressure) by lowering the bucket onto my burn pile, and a dirt pile and the ole loader just lifted me up effortlessly. then on plain ground with the cutting edge nearly perpendicular to the ground with the same result. I'll keep an eye on this, as removing and reinstalling the loader on the ** 80 series tractors is pretty
complicated, as easy as they make it look on the videos. Just read the instructions and you'll see what I mean. I have to have the manual in my hand each time.
Thanks for reading,
DB
 

dalola

Member

Equipment
BX2380 w/FEL & Woods RM48 RFM, Yazoo/Kees Max2 ZTR
Jun 30, 2017
316
6
18
Ohio
You might check your hydro pressure, and throttle up a bit more. It should have no problem lifting the front.

Also, once you do the R&R a few times, it gets much quicker. I really don't think you will find a simpler rig for FEL R&R than the Kubota BX80.
 

OrangeBX

Member

Equipment
Bx2680 FEL, MMM 60", EA 5' rear blade, lp ph10 auger, 50" tiller
Apr 24, 2016
45
3
8
North of Zachary, La
You might check your hydro pressure, and throttle up a bit more. It should have no problem lifting the front.

Also, once you do the R&R a few times, it gets much quicker. I really don't think you will find a simpler rig for FEL R&R than the Kubota BX80.
Thanks Dalola; I have tried the increased rpms, and I figured I would learn the process after a few times, but alas, I think I have the dread CRS disease. That is why I have to have the instructions in my lap, and follow them to the letter(?). Anyway the loader in the field returns what appears to be full function, including heavy lifting with rapidity, pushing the tractor front end off the ground with equal rapidity when the bucket is even a few inches off the ground (as in tamping a dirt mound),. This is from testing thoroughly yesterday. For now I'm just going to monitor. Lastly, from a mechanical standpoint, the pin attachment method on previous series BXs is more robust than the kind of clamping employed by the "swift-tach" by the **80 series BXs, to my mind.
Thanks,
DB
 

jhschlak

Member

Equipment
BX 1880
Apr 5, 2011
83
6
8
Sharon Center, Ohio
Mine does the same as Kubota Pilot's description. During operation today, I made sure the the brake was off for testing. the results were very similar, though the loader did get the wheels barely off the ground. When removing the loader, you put the bucket pivot pin at the same height as the loader arm pivot pin , then
roll the bucket to the dump position to approximately 20 degrees to the ground. So when lowered to the ground the angle with the ground increases to around 45
deg. It is at this angle that you are supposed to lift the front of the (tiny) tractor up. so yes this occurs with the bucket positioned as described. If you have to tilt the bucket further, the process gets sketchy. Anyway I did test the lifting (downward pressure) by lowering the bucket onto my burn pile, and a dirt pile and the ole loader just lifted me up effortlessly. then on plain ground with the cutting edge nearly perpendicular to the ground with the same result. I'll keep an eye on this, as removing and reinstalling the loader on the ** 80 series tractors is pretty
complicated, as easy as they make it look on the videos. Just read the instructions and you'll see what I mean. I have to have the manual in my hand each time.
Thanks for reading,
DB
It's not complicated, although many must be struggling with this as Kubota sent me a card (last year) to attach to the tractor that gives explicit instructions on how to attach/remove the FEL. The most important thing for me is that it is on a level surface. The times I have had problems is when I am on a sloping/slanted surface.
Raising the front wheels off the ground makes it easier to attach/remove the top paws. If you don't get those in completely, disaster will result. Someone else on this forum had their FEL crash into the hood because one of the paws wasn't completely hooked.

Jeff
 

OrangeBX

Member

Equipment
Bx2680 FEL, MMM 60", EA 5' rear blade, lp ph10 auger, 50" tiller
Apr 24, 2016
45
3
8
North of Zachary, La
Hello!,
Just to let y'all know, looks like having the brake on while re-attaching the loader is what was keeping my front wheels on the ground! I've done it a few times since, and have had no problems with the brake off.
Thanks to everyone who replied.
DB
 

Jpatrick

Member

Equipment
BX1850, L210, Various 3 point implements
Apr 4, 2017
100
1
18
Buckingham, Pa
I take the loader on and off several times during the year. It's best done on level ground or better yet level concrete.

On my machine, I find it easier to connect/disconnect the hoses about 6" to 1 foot back of where I connect/disconnect the main pins.

If you are working in summer, pay attention to the temperature when installing/removing loader. If you take the loader off cold, and then try to reinstall it hot, pressure will build up in hoses, and it becomes difficult to snap them into position.

Better to remove loader hot and reinstall cold.