I own a BX2660 subcompact tractor with FEL (bought in 2008) I have had to have a few repairs made to my hydraulic control valve due to the o rings blowing out ( the FEL bucket boom valve located under the battery box)
Now on other tractor websites a few folks have found that Kubota recognizes there is a problem with the flare design on the alum pipes that exit the control valve , these flares might be to rough on the orings. I am told replacement alum pipes are slighlty different flares and it solves the problem. But only by really pressing their dealers did they get these repairs. Now I don't care how much it will cost me (warranty is expired ) so I understand that, but can anyone tell me if a TSB (technical service bulliten) listing can be found . I know some car manufacturers have websites where TSB's can be found. But does Kubota? or does anyone here know of this TSB ? As it is ,the orings seem to last 50 to 80 hours then blow out and you lose all use of tractor very quickly, then they change the o rings and you hold your breath for another 50 hours . Any thoughts ??
Now on other tractor websites a few folks have found that Kubota recognizes there is a problem with the flare design on the alum pipes that exit the control valve , these flares might be to rough on the orings. I am told replacement alum pipes are slighlty different flares and it solves the problem. But only by really pressing their dealers did they get these repairs. Now I don't care how much it will cost me (warranty is expired ) so I understand that, but can anyone tell me if a TSB (technical service bulliten) listing can be found . I know some car manufacturers have websites where TSB's can be found. But does Kubota? or does anyone here know of this TSB ? As it is ,the orings seem to last 50 to 80 hours then blow out and you lose all use of tractor very quickly, then they change the o rings and you hold your breath for another 50 hours . Any thoughts ??
). Now I have blown 2 o-rings after the replacement tubs. You can change the o-rings yourself. Take apart the plastic housing that surounds the loader valve. Then the fun part start the tractor to identify the one that is blown move your loader joystick in all directions with your RPMs slighty above idle while looking for the leak. Then Loosen the tubes at the quick conects and then with a large (I can't remember the size) long wrench lossen the tube at the loader valve. this will be a time consuming part as you will only be able to make short strokes and have to turn over the wrench most every time. After you got it disconected fish out the bad o-ring. Then put everything back together up to the point of the plastic housing. Verify you have everything sealed back up by starting the treator and move the loader joystick agan. Depending on the amount of fluid you have all over use 1-2 cans of break cleaner to clean all of the oil off your loader valve. Install the plactic housing and cowling and go have more fun