Box blade

[edwardsonmark]

Need some help. Bought a box blade with my bx2670. Driveway was never touched in 25 years by previous homeowners and had pot holes. Put box blade teeth down and ran over whole driveway and then pulled all gravel that was pushed over the sides down and worked it some more. Problem I have is it is very wavy now with 2-3 inches of variances in the height of different parts of the driveway. Kinds feels like a roller coaster. My thoughts is this is due to the short wheelbase if the bx?

I think a longer tractor with a land plane would be ideal however no one locally has one to rent. Any other ideas to get it more smooth?

Thanks and sorry for the book of a post.

 

[kckndrgn]

I use my BX2370 on my driveway. Try holding down the "down" lever on the lift, this will put the box into a "float" and may help smooth out the bumps you have.

 

[edwardsonmark]

K I will try this I also thought about using a chain for top link to help float too... thanks

 

[Widefat]

I'm trying to learn the art of the box blade as well. Interested in seeing some of the responses!
For me, I had success the last time I used it by, on the last passes, adjusting the top link so that the rear-most blade was the only thing touching when it was in the float position. Right or wrong, I dont know - but it seemd to work.

 

[TripleR]

Yep, what he said. Raise your scarifiers, extend the top link so only the rear gate is in contact and hold down or use a bungee cord to keep your 3PH in float.

I have also used my FEL in float mode going backwards adjusting the roll/dump function to feather it smooth.

Yep a land plane or drag scraper works great, but the added cost keeps me away from buying one.

 

[edwardsonmark]

Funny thing is I built a 4 foot blade exactly like your picture but sold it when parents sold the farm....now I need it back!

 

[edwardsonmark]

I use my BX2370 on my driveway. Try holding down the "down" lever on the lift, this will put the box into a "float" and may help smooth out the bumps you have.

I was wondering how to make it float better and didn't know about this trick so thanks! That's why this forum is great people with similar machines to learn tricks from. Around here no one has any similar tractors dealer has sat on 4 for 2 years so no one to talk to or learn from. Thanks again!

 

[RCW]

These guys are all on the mark.

First - do NOT use a chain for a top link.

You want it rigid, so you can adjust the aspect of the leading blade, like Triple R said. To smooth, lengthen that baby up until the front blade is well off a flat, level surface. To dig, you want to shorten it up to make the front more aggressive.

Second - since your BX does not have position control, keep a hand on the control handle to keep it down all the way.

Third - Practice!

Here is a picture of a second pass on my drive this spring with my BX. I had put stone down month before.

No loader on, I was moving stone around and smoothing just with the BB. Probably re-distributed 5 ton or more between high/low spots, etc., then smoothed it out again. Took less than an hour.

Good luck! I probably use my BB more than the loader for this type of thing now.

 

[RCW]

Forgot one more thing - I think I threw out my factory top link! Damn thing only seemed to screw in/out from one end. Not handy for this type of thing, when you want to adjust often.

I found a short (12") body top link at a Mahindra dealer local. Place is also Stihl dealer - just came across it.

TSC's Cat 1's were too long. The 12" works perfect on my BX2360 for the BB - can get them lot of places for $25 or so. I have a longer TSC also.

These pics are from first project working on base, and putting stone down. Almost all done with BB - even pulling stone around. Drove on it a month to settle in then peeled loose stuff off and smoothed out.

 

[Lil Foot]

It sounds like you're pretty close (2-3 inches of variances) so the "tail down & float" method should work well, but if you have a job with greater variations, I find it helpful to "rough it in" before final smoothing.
It requires some practice, but keep your hand on the 3 pt lever, run slow (1st or 2nd low) with box blade set neutral or a little down in the front, then lower the blade to just top off the high points & lift it over the low spots. Feathering it up & down is probably a better description, and running slow as possible gives you more time to react. You can "average" the variations, then do the final smoothing.
Of course, use care at the start of a job to remove all rocks bigger than your gravel; nothing worse than taking that final smoothing pass & hook a 3" rock & drag a 3" groove right through the middle of your perfect driveway.

 

[eipo]

Also, and your neighbors will think you're drunk. But alter your travel path. Box blades have a tendency to leave hills and valleys if you start with hills and valleys. The best and most efficient way to grade an area level is to hit it from multiple directions. Since drives are relatively narrow, you just have to do it in an "S" pattern.

The advice about the angle on the scraper is right on. It should ride on the rear cutting edge with adjustments made to the top link to control the cut depth. When I am making final passes with a box blade the front cutting edge isn't touching the ground.


Sent from a field

 

[Tooljunkie]

Great advice. Them big stones make me crazy. Cant make a single pass without flipping out a dozen big rocks. Gotta build a picker.