I have owned a Kubota tractor for about 10 years, it’s a 1978 L185DT, which when I purchased it used it didn’t have a FEL so I found a Bush Hog FEL that had been on a Farm All tractor. I had to do some modifications and make some parts for it to work properly but it has been a great tractor all the years I have had it. It recently started making a noise internally so decided that it was new tractor time. I plan to fix the old one and sell it. My question is, does anyone have a Rear Remote Hydraulic system with a hydraulic top link for there implementation? If so, what brand is the and what has been your experience with how it performs for you and what implements do you find it useful with. I have read about them, but haven’t heard from anyone who has experience with them. I appreciate any feedback or advice and suggestions on what type of products you would recommend or even if not recommended! Thanks
Bought a Kubota B2401DT with FEL, New Member
- Thread starter gbaker53
- Start date
Brand of top link really does not matter as long as its the correct length. Plenty of choices and very handy with just about every implement. You will need a remote valve to go with the top link.
Dan
Russell King
Well-known member
Lifetime Member
Equipment
L185F, Modern Ag Competitor 4’ shredder, Rhino tiller, rear dirt scoop
I am not sure if you are asking about the older tractor, new tractor so will comment on both.
For the system it is really nice to have one and makes using any rear implement easier to use. Tilting a rear blade or plow, leveling any implements, lifting implements are all very easily done with the help of the top and tilt kit. So you should just commit to getting one if you are even considering it.
On the newer tractor just get it installed by the dealer and finance it. They will install the kit that has been designed to fit and look like original equipment. You can buy aftermarket parts or kits but they won’t fit the tractor in the same way (as I understand it).
On the older tractor it is difficult to mount the remote valve unless you have a rollover protector roll bar. Even then it ends up in an inconvenient spot a bit behind you but very usable. For that I recommend you obtain the cylinders from FitRite hydraulics who will custom make them to the correct lengths. He made a complete kit including the valve and bracket for me. It fit well other than a couple of incorrect measurements from me (the clevis pin hole size was tight and the clevis was a bit too wide and hit a thick washer where the chain stay bolts). Those were easily corrected and the system works well after installation.
You may want to add a third rear valve for a log splitter or some other future use but that falls into the just in case category.
For the system it is really nice to have one and makes using any rear implement easier to use. Tilting a rear blade or plow, leveling any implements, lifting implements are all very easily done with the help of the top and tilt kit. So you should just commit to getting one if you are even considering it.
On the newer tractor just get it installed by the dealer and finance it. They will install the kit that has been designed to fit and look like original equipment. You can buy aftermarket parts or kits but they won’t fit the tractor in the same way (as I understand it).
On the older tractor it is difficult to mount the remote valve unless you have a rollover protector roll bar. Even then it ends up in an inconvenient spot a bit behind you but very usable. For that I recommend you obtain the cylinders from FitRite hydraulics who will custom make them to the correct lengths. He made a complete kit including the valve and bracket for me. It fit well other than a couple of incorrect measurements from me (the clevis pin hole size was tight and the clevis was a bit too wide and hit a thick washer where the chain stay bolts). Those were easily corrected and the system works well after installation.
You may want to add a third rear valve for a log splitter or some other future use but that falls into the just in case category.
NCL4701
Well-known member
Equipment
L4701, T2290, WC68, grapple, BB1572, Farmi W50R, Howes 500, 16kW IMD gen, WG24
This is my setup: hydraulic toplink, hydraulic sidelink, 3 OEM valves in the slots between the seat and right fender. Two center return, one float so I can float either the toplink (handy for bush hogging rough areas) or sidelink (useful for some grading situations where you want the tilt of the blade to follow the crown of a road where crown varies through curves and straights). Dealer installed about a two years after I bought the tractor.
Hindsight: should have spec’d them with original purchase. Didn’t know how useful they’d be and underestimated the amount of grading I’d be doing maintaining roads, trails, and ditches.
I’ve used various 3 point implements on a variety of tractors for about 50 years. This is the first I’ve used with hydraulic toplink or sidelink. For some of my implements, it has absolutely zero benefit (chipper, stump grinder, generator, skidding winch, trailer mover). For others, it’s an incredible increase in function and efficiency (box blade, back blade, pine straw rake). For a bush hog type cutter, it might or might not be an improvement depending on what you do with it.
For the most part, it’s not an improvement for set and forget type implements. For things such as box blade and back blade where being able to adjust quickly is an advantage and being able to adjust while moving increases functionality of the implement, they’re worth every penny plus some. Bottom line, IMO depends on what you’ll be doing with it whether it’s worth the money.
If you’re doing any blade work at all, I’d suggest getting a hydraulic toplink and sidelink. If you don’t want to spend the money on the full setup, at least get a hydraulic toplink if you can.
Also, consider whether you want to be able to float the cylinder(s). If you don’t, consider getting cylinders with check valves (holds the cylinder where you set it even if the control valve is a bit leaky, which it probably will be). There are some really smart folks here who can walk you through a DIY setup. I’m not one of them.
Hindsight: should have spec’d them with original purchase. Didn’t know how useful they’d be and underestimated the amount of grading I’d be doing maintaining roads, trails, and ditches.
I’ve used various 3 point implements on a variety of tractors for about 50 years. This is the first I’ve used with hydraulic toplink or sidelink. For some of my implements, it has absolutely zero benefit (chipper, stump grinder, generator, skidding winch, trailer mover). For others, it’s an incredible increase in function and efficiency (box blade, back blade, pine straw rake). For a bush hog type cutter, it might or might not be an improvement depending on what you do with it.
For the most part, it’s not an improvement for set and forget type implements. For things such as box blade and back blade where being able to adjust quickly is an advantage and being able to adjust while moving increases functionality of the implement, they’re worth every penny plus some. Bottom line, IMO depends on what you’ll be doing with it whether it’s worth the money.
If you’re doing any blade work at all, I’d suggest getting a hydraulic toplink and sidelink. If you don’t want to spend the money on the full setup, at least get a hydraulic toplink if you can.
Also, consider whether you want to be able to float the cylinder(s). If you don’t, consider getting cylinders with check valves (holds the cylinder where you set it even if the control valve is a bit leaky, which it probably will be). There are some really smart folks here who can walk you through a DIY setup. I’m not one of them.