BF350 with multiple attachments

[Slbc]

B9200-HSTD with multiple attachments

I just picked up a new (to me) BF350 with an auger attachment, mower and rototiller. The auger was already attached and easy enough to run, however the mower attachment was not so easy. I will build the hanger for the auger attachment that I just came across on another thread, so simple and easy. Anyway, back to the mower. I was able to get it hooked up to the lifting bars however there appears to be a missing control bar that attaches the tractor to the top of the mower connection assembly. I don't know the correct terminology, so please excuse my ignorance. I need to find this bar as it seems to be a crucial part. Any ideas?
Next question on the mower - the blades are 'loose', but that appears to be by design... They spin out into location from the centrifugal force. Is that correct?
Next, the blades are REALLY dull. Basically no edge at all, is that normal too?
I will be picking up the rototiller attachment later this week and can post more on that when I get it, if there are any more questions.
Thanks in advance!!

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

First, I think you need to look over everything a little closer, what your saying is that you bought a BF350, well that's the loader # or FEL (Front End Loader), what about the tractor it's attached to, what # and model is that?
Look on the hood and look on the left side of the transmission for the serial and model #.
Tractors are Geared (T), Hydrostatic (HST), and other options like Glide shift (GST), they are 2wd (F) and 4wd (D), the number is size and series, so a geared 9200 4wd would be a 9200DT.
Next as too the mower there is hundreds of mowers that could possibly fit the tractor, so help us narrow that down, is it a Kubota mower, is it a MMM mower (mid mount mower / belly mower) or a three point mower (Rear mount), Pictures always help.

Sounds like you have a three point mower and your missing the top link, As you had a PHD on the tractor and that attaches directly too the tractor minus the top link.
If it is a 3 point mower, and it has floating blades, then yes that's all normal, dull blades are not really normal, but a sign of use. A brush mower will never have the same nice sharp blades as a finish mower, this leads to the question what do you want the mower to do?
Brush hog out a field, or mow your lawn? If you looking to mow your lawn with it, you have the wrong type of mower, you'll never get a good cut, what you want is a finish mower, yes they make them in two models MMM and three point, they have sharp blades and are meant for mowing nice grass.

Welcome to OTT and we'll get you headed in the right direction!

 

[Slbc]

North Idaho Wolfman, thank you for the reply!
After a closer look, I see what you are saying now. The correct model is B9200-HST-D.
The mower is a 3-point rear. I have a 2acre lot, with the back 1 acre of undeveloped land, so I bought the 3-point mower attachment to keep the brush down, not a fine cut.
The tach shows 483 hours, but the tach isn't working so I don't know how accurate that is.
I attached a picture of the tag on the mower deck, but it is faded pretty bad so I don't know if it helps or not.
One more question, I see the lever for the 4wd but do I need to push the foot lever next to it to engage the 4wd?
See pictures attached as requested to help clarify. Thanks for the help.

 

[trouble11]

Slbc,
I too have a B9200 hydro. I think You will realy like it, Mine has been bulletproof. Just keep it serviced and it will last You another 20 Years.

 

[North Idaho Wolfman]

Yep that is a nice model of tractor, I thought that might be what you had based on the loader model.
Don't worry about the dull blades (unless they are damaged or bent), on a brush mower that's normal, new blades aren't what I would call sharp from the start.
First you need a top link for the brush mower, (and 99% of all other three point implements), you have what they call a Cat 1 or Category 1 three point, Cat 1 is the size, there is Cat 0, Cat 1A, Cat 1, Cat 2, Cat 3, Cat 4.
Three point Category 1 top link.

and also get a couple of attachment pins for both ends!

I think the pedal you are talking about is the rear differential lock (locks the 2 rear tires together when you're spinning one tire in something like mud or loose material), the 4wd lever will engage the 4wd and it should stay like that till disengaged.

The Tach problem is a semi normal problem and we can get into checking or fixing it when you get some free time.
It would make it nicer for you if it worked as PTO speed is based on motor speed.
Till you do get it fixed you want to run the PTO in low range at about 3/4 throttle.

Go to Kubotabooks.com and go to operators manuals and download the OPS9200 manual it is full of a ton of useful information.

 

[cerlawson]

Assuming the above post is right, never use that differential lock to get out of a mess WHILE THE WHEELS ARE SPINNING. Reason is that you will ruin the engaging section of the rear end and then it will never work for you again. Instead, stop the spinning, engage the thing (it may take three feet to do all of those things) and then give the engine some fuel, hopefully by still keeping your foot on that lever. On some tractors it takes some doing, running foot feed, clutch and also the differential lock all at the same time.

 

[Stubbyie]

Before using the shredder (cutter, bushhog, brushhog) be sure to check the gearbox for gear oil--probably 80- or 90-wt; may be 140-wt. A lot of people use grease-gun grease if find leaky seals. Find the owner's manual online if you can or if labled call the manufacturer.

Sharpen the blades and use less tractor hp for cutting--and get a better result. You may have to cut a hole in the deck (roughly centered behind the gearbox--you'll have to measure how far 'out' from center vertical gearbox shaft) so you can get to the nut on top of your bar or stump-jumper. Check the deck carefully for an access hole.

Sharpen the blades like a lawnmower using a 4-1/2-inch or similar hand grinder. You'll need a large socket or from ag store a 'bushhog wrench', sort of like a socket welded to a square shaft (and a large cresent or pipe wrench). When you reassemble the blade bolts clean the keyway and use a quality plumbing-type paste threat sealant and tighten the nuts completely, replacing the lock washers each time.

If you get into replacing blades have with you the originals (you hope it's the original set). There are hundreds of different shredder blades available (note offset shape, angle, and direction of rotation). See above if you can find manufacturer life will be better. I've seen blades upside down, backwards, torch-cut, welded (shudder), too short, and homemade: just be certain what you need and don't settle for otherwise. May have to find assistance from knowledegable tractor dealer for first replacment.

You'll also need to find and remove, clean ,and replace the shear pin in the drive line. I suggest this before being in the middle of a job and finding out the shear pin did and you can't get the dang thing out since it's rusted in for the last 30-years.

That shredder top-link extension rear support chain bothers me. I've seen some where due to wear the links on each end are just about worn to point of failure. A clevis or short piece of thick welded strap is better on each end. You can make the upper end a drilled hole in a strap and cut a banjo hole to be able to adjust the chain--if you do, fold the chain back onto itself and secure with a bolt and nut.

Be aware that the top link you need comes not only in different category 'sizes' (refer to other poster) but also lengths---sometimes the short length won't extend far enough and the longest length won't let you draw the implement up a high as you need. And different implements may require different top link lengths. They're cheap; I tend to leave the odd-balls attached to the implement so they don't get lost.

Shredder blades can, do, and will bend and break. Be mentally prepared to get out of the PTO fast if required. If it happens you'll know instantly something's gone wrong.

Please post back with your experiences so we may all learn.

 

[Slbc]

Thank you everyone for the comments and help. I downloaded the manual and going through it now. I will be going to my local Kubota or tractor supply to get the top link for some upcoming work. Turns out as I'm going over the tractor a little more, I'm also missing one of the lower turnbuckles on the right lower link. So I have some parts to get to get it back up and running.
I would like some assistance on getting the tach working again too, Wolfman.
Again, thanks all. I will post more when I start working with the tractor and attachments more.