Bat house/kestrel nesting box pole construction critique and suggestions wanted.

ken erickson

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By the end of this summer I am required (program practices deadline) to place one bat house and one kestrel nesting box on my oak savanna project.

I would like critiques and suggestions on my initial plan of attack. Both the bat house and nesting box needs to be a minimum of 12 feet from ground level. The boxes themselves are relatively light weight but the bat box may have wind loads due to the vertical surface area.

The other major criteria is that I am able to "hinge" the pole down to ground level once a year and clean the house, nesting boxes. This is due to me not being able to climb a ladder and with minimum help lower and raise them back up . My plan is to remove one of the 5/8" carriage bolts and then pivot the pole down and vice versus going back up. With the pole up I would torque both bolts for clamping forces.

My soil is loamy sand , plan on a full 36" deep hole with two bags of quickcrete in each pole.

Keep in mind my first drawing is NOT to scale but the important dimensions should all be there.

All lumber will be pressure treated.

Depending on price of a 12' 4 x4 compared to two 2 x 4 x 12' would two 2 x 4's bolted or screwed together give me basically the same strength as a single 4x4? Wind side loading would be the largest forces I would guess.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions or critique's.
IMG_1951.jpeg
 
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NorthwoodsLife

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Nice design. I like it..

It's going to be heavy swinging it up or down. Lose control of it and the bat box will be destroyed. Or whomever whatever it falls on. Maybe a rope and pully to a nearby tree to ease it down?

Set it up to swing down on only one side.

I was thinking 4" ABS pipe instead of 4x4 due to weight but it will flex more.

Good luck Sir.
 
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ken erickson

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Nice design. I like it..

It's going to be heavy swinging it up or down. Lose control of it and the bat box will be destroyed. Or whomever whatever it falls on. Maybe a rope and pully to a nearby tree to ease it down?

Set it up to swing down on only one side.

I was thinking 4" ABS pipe instead of 4x4 due to weight but it will flex more.

Good luck Sir.
Great idea and yes , setting it up so it can only swing the one way will offer some extra safety when raising.

I might also consider increasing the "lap" joint to 3 foot. I can afford that and still make the minimum 12ft high requirement.

The other item I did not draw in but should be done is to bevel the top edges of the 2x4's for water to run off.
 
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RCW

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I’m far from qualified to offer a legitimate critique.

My only first-thought was 2’ and two fasteners might not be enough.

That wind load on a tall lever with an obvious fulcrum/pivot that close to the bottom bolt might be tough.

Physics says that’s a lot of force.

I’m just spitballing- 3 or 4 feet with 3+ bolts - one as your pivot?

Again- far from an informed opinion.

Looks like a great project!

Not a fan of bats, but they’re important to the ecosystem. Bat houses are good.

Big fan of Kestrel. Beautiful bird and also important.
 
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ken erickson

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I’m just spitballing- 3 or 4 feet with 3+ bolts - one as your pivot?
Thank you for your input!

Yes, I think that 3 through bolts and 3 foot of overlap is good insurance. Very little time taking two bolts out versus one to make the pivot maneuver .

I agree on the kestrel's ! I love the coloring and patterns of their feathers.
 
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GrumpyFarmer

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Good day.

sounds like a fun / interesting addition to your savanna project. (I installed a bard owl box last year on my forestry project)

I have a couple thoughts or questions:

1. If climbing a ladder a concern how about raising and lowering the post/pole? How is that going to work? (I wonder how easy it is to raise/steady and line the bolt hole up? Is that a considering or trouble? I am aaskingbas I’ve never raised a pole like that. If so I would think about how to add a stop or something like that to be able to lift and push the post to to then prevent from pushing over other direction and make putting bolt back in easier…but maybe that’s not necessary?

2. What are you doing for the bat/kestrel houses? ( I am sort of assuming it’s a separate pole and house for each, not a duplex or high rise correct?).

(I’ve found Cornell’s nest watch to be a pretty decent site)

I hope you share pictures of finisheI look forward to seeing the result. 👍
 
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ken erickson

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Good day.

sounds like a fun / interesting addition to your savanna project. (I installed a bard owl box last year on my forestry project)

I have a couple thoughts or questions:

1. If climbing a ladder a concern how about raising and lowering the post/pole? How is that going to work? (I wonder how easy it is to raise/steady and line the bolt hole up? Is that a considering or trouble? I am aaskingbas I’ve never raised a pole like that. If so I would think about how to add a stop or something like that to be able to lift and push the post to to then prevent from pushing over other direction and make putting bolt back in easier…but maybe that’s not necessary?

2. What are you doing for the bat/kestrel houses? ( I am sort of assuming it’s a separate pole and house for each, not a duplex or high rise correct?).

(I’ve found Cornell’s nest watch to be a pretty decent site)

I hope you share pictures of finisheI look forward to seeing the result. 👍
Thanks for your questions!

I would have help raising and lowing but want to make it as easy as possible for the friends/family that would help. As Northwoodslife mentioned a positive stop will be added. I use a manual wheelchair and envision myself doing the bolt removal and reinstall with one or two strong individuals raising and lowering. I do have a pulley and rope to where I could install a eye bolt at the 6 or 7 foot mark and could tie it off to my trailer hitch ball that would help ease some of the lifting effort.

Yes, two separate poles located in two distinct areas of the project. I have not decided yet if I will build the bat house or buy. I already have a kestrel box incoming from a friend.

I will update as the project progresses. I have a Sept 15th deadline. Be here before I know it, this summer seems to be evaporating quickly! :)

Did you attract a Barred owl to the nesting box? Another beautiful bird!
 
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Henro

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Thinking a bit out of the box, but could you put the pivot point higher, while leaving the pole length the same as your drawing, and then perhaps lag bolt some weight on the very bottom, like old brake rotors, or maybe better a barbell weight, which would add some weight to counter the weight of the pole/house above the pivot point, so swinging it down and putting it back up would require less effort? (Sorry for the long sentence)

The weight would also serve as a stop, when you were raising the pole back up, so it would not swing past vertical, and want to fall towards the opposite side.

Ideally, but perhaps not practical, enough weight could be added to make rotating the pole almost effortless. I am not suggesting that. Just something to counter the weight of the pole as you lower it, compared to having no counter weight at all.
 
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GrumpyFarmer

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Thanks for your questions!

I would have help raising and lowing but want to make it as easy as possible for the friends/family that would help. As Northwoodslife mentioned a positive stop will be added. I use a manual wheelchair and envision myself doing the bolt removal and reinstall with one or two strong individuals raising and lowering. I do have a pulley and rope to where I could install a eye bolt at the 6 or 7 foot mark and could tie it off to my trailer hitch ball that would help ease some of the lifting effort.

Yes, two separate poles located in two distinct areas of the project. I have not decided yet if I will build the bat house or buy. I already have a kestrel box incoming from a friend.

I will update as the project progresses. I have a Sept 15th deadline. Be here before I know it, this summer seems to be evaporating quickly! :)

Did you attract a Barred owl to the nesting box? Another beautiful bird!
Great question…I don’t know for certain.

we have heard a bard owl multiple times towards the back of our property (not sure for certain where it is).

I have not gone to look in the box to see if in use as I am a bit of chicken - chit to go up on a ladder and look in for fear of it coming out and me falling off the ladder…not sure that would happen but me looking in there will not change weather we have an owl in the box or not.

so since I am weanie I have been checking the ground when ever we visit…in my mind. There should be droppings around the box as soon as they take off. So far it’s been really rainy and seems to all washed out below the box so I can really see any evidence.

so long winded answer is we have not any evidence of owl taking up residence.
 
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ken erickson

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Thinking a bit out of the box, but could you put the pivot point higher, while leaving the pole length the same as your drawing, and then perhaps lag bolt some weight on the very bottom, like old brake rotors, or maybe better a barbell weight, which would add some weight to counter the weight of the pole/house above the pivot point, so swinging it down and putting it back up would require less effort? (Sorry for the long sentence)

The weight would also serve as a stop, when you were raising the pole back up, so it would not swing past vertical, and want to fall towards the opposite side.

Ideally, but perhaps not practical, enough weight could be added to make rotating the pole almost effortless. I am not suggesting that. Just something to counter the weight of the pole as you lower it, compared to having no counter weight at all.
Great idea and I had considered that as an option and could be added at a later date. Much like the counter balanced road and pedestrian barrier gates.
 

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Henro

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By the end of this summer I am required (program practices deadline) to place one bat house and one kestrel nesting box on my oak savanna project.
I was curious what Ken's Oak Savanna Project was...

Here is a very nice video he made describing it. First post in the thread (thanks for posting this Ken):

 
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Russell King

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You might want to extend the length of the horizontal under ground pieces and dig slots on the hole. The extra weight of the earth on the extensions will make it less likely to turn over and pull out of the ground. (We screw 2 x 6 x 36 inch long to the bottom foot of the fence posts and bury that at the bottom of the hole to help the posts not wrench out of the ground from the force of the fence tension).

Also I have seen people attach a horizontal lever arm to the posts to lower and raise the post at the pivot point. There is usually a guy wire attached at the top of the posts (near the bat box) that is also attached to the horizontal lever arm to make a triangle shape. That is left on the post after it is up but the horizontal piece can be removed until the next time to clean the house.

I am not sure any of that makes sense in words, so I can make a sketch if needed.

I would also use 4x4 for both sides of the lower (underground) section. They will be rotting quickly enough that 2x won’t last that long.
 
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ken erickson

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You might want to extend the length of the horizontal under ground pieces and dig slots on the hole. The extra weight of the earth on the extensions will make it less likely to turn over and pull out of the ground. (We screw 2 x 6 x 36 inch long to the bottom foot of the fence posts and bury that at the bottom of the hole to help the posts not wrench out of the ground from the force of the fence tension).

Also I have seen people attach a horizontal lever arm to the posts to lower and raise the post at the pivot point. There is usually a guy wire attached at the top of the posts (near the bat box) that is also attached to the horizontal lever arm to make a triangle shape. That is left on the post after it is up but the horizontal piece can be removed until the next time to clean the house.

I am not sure any of that makes sense in words, so I can make a sketch if needed.

I would also use 4x4 for both sides of the lower (underground) section. They will be rotting quickly enough that 2x won’t last that long.
Something like this? All good thoughts and suggestions, thanks!

IMG_1953.jpeg
 

jimh406

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I wouldn’t use a carriage bolt because you can’t hold onto both sides to tighten or to loosen.
 
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Workerbee

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When cable tv got popular an awful lot of tv antenna poles were removed in rural areas. Lots of them are made just like your plans show. Perhaps you could find one by asking around a bit. Theyre steel and quite sturdy.
 
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Sawdust&Shavings

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Yooper

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Your plan is just fine! Only modification I would make is use 4” channel iron set in the ground with the concrete instead of using wood. That is your point of the most stress. Also helps to make a “dummy” block to simulate your pole base when setting up your base with concrete. A 2’ piece of 4x4 with the holes drilled and sandwiched between the channels is what I’m talking about. Good luck!
 
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D2Cat

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Ken, another idea for the tilting bird house. I used metal for a TV antenna years ago. It's simple. It stand 40' in the air. When I first made it I weighed the antenna I was going to attach then figured the balance point of the pipe above the hinge and made it all balance out. I used a boat winch to pull it up after it was let down, but the winch was not necessary because there was no weight to deal with. Here are some picture to explain the contraption. Obviously you make it any height desired.
20250706_160043.jpg
20250706_160108.jpg
20250706_165704.jpg
 
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Russell King

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Cleaver.

But I think you have guy wires to support the top?