Ballast Analysis
- Thread starter Old Machinist
- Start date
Excellent video! Every tractor sales person should watch it, along with ever first time tractor owner/operator!
Here is one about how filled tires effect the tractor ...
I like a lot of weight on my tractors rear axle ... I have the ability to add 275 Lbs to the BH mounting frame if it's not on, for ground engaging equipment.
Here is one about how filled tires effect the tractor ...
I like a lot of weight on my tractors rear axle ... I have the ability to add 275 Lbs to the BH mounting frame if it's not on, for ground engaging equipment.
That comparison with rim guard in the rear tires and no 3 point ballast confirms what the other video claims. Loaded tires, while making the rear heavier and more stable, does not remove weight off the front axle.
Yup!
And so many people claim it's all they need to have for loader work, or maybe a lightweight 250 Lb rear blade!
Another false gauge that some use is "the back tires didn't come off the ground" yeah, but if 95% of the total tractor and load is on the front axle, a axle rebuild is right around the corner, besides the tractor can tip over MUCH easier with that mismatched "balance"!
I say that if the tractor comes with a backhoe, or is an option, that's a good starting point for how much weight is needed on the back for front loader work ... While it's possible to add more weight with a BH on, it's not easy, so ... I figure the manufacturer decided that a TLB package is not going to overload the rear axle, but also takes enough load OFF the front axle ... !
Paul Allwood
Well-known member
Premium Member
Equipment
Kubota B7200HSTD, RC60-72H MMM, homemade FEL, Sovema 3PL rotary hoe
Great videos. I'm much newer to tractors than most here and amazed at what seems to be a low % of the total weight on the rear axle with no ballast. A good demonstration of the effect of a load in the bucket and the of the need for ballast with a loader.
Another thought ...
Quite often we hear/read the suggestion of "put as much weight on the back as you want to pick up in the front" ... Which is basically what the first video does, and while it restored the basic 70/30 split of weight reduction ... Is the front axle overloaded at that point? Tires?
For those that have that same tractor loader combination, I'd be VERY interested in some actual numbers out of your manual ...
Like what is the front axle actually rated for?
What is the stated "lift capacity?
What is the rear axle rated for?
What are the tires rated for?
Another thing is not just the pounds/kilos of weight on the back, but WHERE it is in relation to the rear axle ... A quick hitch will push that weight back another roughly 5" ... So that same 650 pounds is more effective, then if it is "at the pins" of the lower arms ... My 5' wide brush hog is 8' long and weighs 518.4 Lbs, but my front axle is light enough with the tail wheel off the ground that I need to add ballast to the bucket! Whereas the the factory BH with aftermarket thumb is 651.0 Lbs is more balanced, and doesn't need front ballast to turn ... My homemade 707.0 Lb ballast box that has recessed pockets for the QH to go into, to keep load close and compact to the back of the tractor, also doesn't need front ballast!
This is from when I was building it, after concrete was cured, I knocked out the 2X4 spacers, so the QH could slide in and grab that pipe ...
The ballast box stays close, and the extra 275 Lbs of weight lifting plates is very close to the rear axle, and probably is only as effective as 125 Lbs if it was out at the ends of the arms, as far as "rear ballast" (to compensate for front load) compared to "rear axle ballast" for traction ... Which is the primary reason I use it for.
Quite often we hear/read the suggestion of "put as much weight on the back as you want to pick up in the front" ... Which is basically what the first video does, and while it restored the basic 70/30 split of weight reduction ... Is the front axle overloaded at that point? Tires?
For those that have that same tractor loader combination, I'd be VERY interested in some actual numbers out of your manual ...
Like what is the front axle actually rated for?
What is the stated "lift capacity?
What is the rear axle rated for?
What are the tires rated for?
Another thing is not just the pounds/kilos of weight on the back, but WHERE it is in relation to the rear axle ... A quick hitch will push that weight back another roughly 5" ... So that same 650 pounds is more effective, then if it is "at the pins" of the lower arms ... My 5' wide brush hog is 8' long and weighs 518.4 Lbs, but my front axle is light enough with the tail wheel off the ground that I need to add ballast to the bucket! Whereas the the factory BH with aftermarket thumb is 651.0 Lbs is more balanced, and doesn't need front ballast to turn ... My homemade 707.0 Lb ballast box that has recessed pockets for the QH to go into, to keep load close and compact to the back of the tractor, also doesn't need front ballast!
This is from when I was building it, after concrete was cured, I knocked out the 2X4 spacers, so the QH could slide in and grab that pipe ...
The ballast box stays close, and the extra 275 Lbs of weight lifting plates is very close to the rear axle, and probably is only as effective as 125 Lbs if it was out at the ends of the arms, as far as "rear ballast" (to compensate for front load) compared to "rear axle ballast" for traction ... Which is the primary reason I use it for.